Jive/Salsa R2 mixture

[Burgerman]

I agree. Anyone with kids needs to give them anything they can that they can get apart from an early age. Give them a workshop with tools and help them fix or make stuff. Old petrol mowers to take apart, buy them tools, model train transformers, and buy the sort of toys that are real, mechanical and not things with screens. They must have an old small motorcycle, model airplanes, etc.

That was my childhood. I seriously can fix, build, make, improve and turn my hand to anything. Even today if I spot anything that I do not understand how it works I just have to know. I buy and dismantle. When I was 17 I couldnt figure out how stripey toothpast came out stripey. I had to go buy one and cut it open at about 2am from an all night fuel station.

Before my accident I was building race engines, with home designed turbo/fuel injection, and nitrous oxide systems, with huge power levels and building and selling these skills along with my own brand dynamometers. The things I learned as a kid earned my money, and allows me to understand the world. Schools and education doesent do that.

[Burgerman]

Right, getting up for a few hours today. So a quick pic or two. This is with everything done except
- rear wheels and tyres.
-Jay3 seat back.
Those are still to be done. As soon as the parts come.

[Burgerman]

And now my lazer cut wheel adapter parts are here. 3 days! And now to mark/drill...

On the left.
1.5mm disk, 8mm ring, 2x 8mm rings to stack and total 16mm as one big ring.

On the middle, these are two steel spacers that are fitted as stock. They are really heavy and steek, and will not be used.

On the right, is the same as the left! Except stacked up, as they will be fitted and bolted together.

Remember this:

To fit those rims to a salsa, you need:

Spacer ring:
Inside diameter 41.5
Outside diameter 110.0
Thickness 16mm (used 2x 8mm instead per side)
Bolts inner ring 60 pcd x4 drilled 9MM and countersunk for taper flush cap head bolts.
Bolts outer ring 90.5 x 4 tapped M8 to fit rim.


Cover plate 2 parts.
1x ring, 74.5mm x 41.5 x 8mm thick.
1x cover, 74.5mm diameter x 1.5mm thick polished held on with 2x countersunk m4 bolts drilled through to the main adapter.

All in easy to drill aluminium from here, laser cut to size https://www.lasermaster.co.uk/easy-order

[Burgerman]

Marked the easy way. Sit one on top, and spray paint to mark holes.

4 times...

Then drill 8.5mm on all plates. Two used each side as the laser will not cut more than 8mm and I wanted 16.
So two halves will get bolted together.

[Burgerman]

Part done, hard work when all your drils, allen keys, bolts, files, are all on the floor... So not done yet.

This bolts on in place of the otiginal spacer/wheel. And it will tomorrow have another 4 holes, tapped M8 for the new wheel at 92mm PCD. Near the outer edge.

Then theres 2 more parts that wiull bolt to the centre to centralise the wheel, and to give a flush finish on the wheel centre hole. As you will see. The black bolts fit to the chair. No nuts used. The two stainless ones just hold the two halfs together.

[shirley_hkg]

That skinny grey tyres make it really looks
" handicapped " .

[Burgerman]

Yep. Same crappy 3.00 x 8 tyre in grey as most chairs use. But not for long!

[Burgerman]

Wheel adapter bolted to wheel, no cover, needs cleaning up, spraying black etc.

And it then gets a 1.5mm thick cover, that will be polished, and held on with two 4mm countersunk screws.

And then I get to start all over again andmake another one for the opposite side... The fun.

[hank]

Not long now John

[Burgerman]

Screws done (1st wheel...).
Just needs a polish and fitting. Centre cap bolts are not fully tight here.

Makes you wonder why they dont offer a properly sorted chair for control freaks. It woud sell.

[hank]

Excellent as always.
They are not clever enough to work
that out or would be doing.lol

[Burgerman]

I feel sure they could fit different wheels.

They would just make the hub to suit. I have the hard job, I have to make these three parts each side, to make their hub, work with my wheels...

[hank]

Get some more cheap wheels and some kits made up.
Sell loads.

[Burgerman]

I would get them CNC machined, anodised black, and about 10p each from china in lots of a 1000...

Because its way way too hard to make one by one with a pillar drill. And the accuracy you have to work to is too high. Takes ages to get them exactly right. But how many have the ability or confidence to even swap a wheel - even with a kit of parts? Most uusers wouldnt like the risk, warranty worry, and anything out of the norm. The manufacturers shoud do this. And the other stuff.

[hank]

Correct

[Burgerman]

Seriously, if I was going to do that I wouldnt make adapters just hubs. That fit 20mm taper or 20mm straight shafts as most bigger powerchairsuse one orthe other. That were if you like universal. So many different wheels could be fitted, with a selection of different depth spacers included. 3, 4 and 5, 6 studs. Drilled and tapped for all types. And sell on ebay. Red green, blue, gold or black anodised. And could sell various wheel and tyre combinations to suit all too.

It would be easy to organise, and build a database of chairs/motors/wheels that fit.

But other than a few techy types on here, nobody else would notice, car or buy. You would be better selling these as ready to go kits to say sunrise or invacare or whatever.

My chair has half a dozen small changes, lights shifted inboard so they dont clobber the bed, door frames etc, joystick shifted swingaway moved inboard 4 inches! And higher by 2 inches, and redrilled with bigger bolts/mountings so it does not wobble, so its actually controllable without a broken wrist. A centre fooplate that works (now its had a lump sawn off! And seat moved back 55mm) and the arms reconfigured. Black tyres, wider tubeless rears with off road sealer, and wider rims, + severely reprogrammed for torque and so it steers properly. The recline modified so it really now does recline much further, and the seating inhibits "modified" a little so it doesent totally piss me off. Lift, was included (not essential kit - but is useful some days could be left off this list with weight and cost savings and better seat stability).

All of these things, with 120A power module, 4 pole motors, single post arms, latest colour advanced R-net joystick, turned turned a basic cheap salsa nose heavy chair thats barely usable into a good accurate daily tool. This as far as I know is the best rear drive chair available anywhere commercially once modified. Lithium will sort its range issues out big style. As it did with my other chairs.

If they SOLD a chair configured exactly how I now have mine, it would sell 10x better than any other chair they offered. But they dont seem to get it. They dont do the last 10% to finish a chair and make it usable. And attractive to users. I dont mean sunrise, I mean the industry as a whole.

[hank]

I don’t think you could have described it any better
On what you have improved on custom built dialed in

Do you know if the Linux motor hubs are a straight
Swap with AMT ones tapered shafts.
If yes then more options for wheel change types.

[Burgerman]

I dont yet.

[Burgerman]

Done! Rims fitted. Just awaiting back/headrest. And removal of push handles.

[hank]

What a transformation now
Looks mint John.

[Burgerman]

Amazing how much difference a few small changes, seat position, modified centre footplate etc can make.

From nasty and unusable to cool and works!

Heres what they look like stock, note seat position.

She is sat over the front. Wont steer, no rear grip, drives like an oil tanker. And nothing you can do because her feet have to be in front of the casters as they rotate when reversing. Stupid. Even worse if you are fat! Your weight is even further forwards.

[hank]

You would think it was a different model chair now.
What pressure you running about 20-25 psi in rears.

[Burgerman]

Seat is only around 3 inches further back And feet maybe 4 inches too. But that makes a huge difference to controlability and feel. The slightly wider rear tyres give more steering "leverage" too, also helping steering response. Footplate still too big however. I see a saw in its future...

[Scooterman]

Your chair looks so much better than the standard chair.

[Burgerman]

When people look for wheelchair they also want something that looks cool. Cool sells!

You would think it was a different model chair now.
What pressure you running about 20-25 psi in rears.

No idea yet, still need to add the tyre sealer in all 4. And experiment with pressure. But about that.

[Burgerman]

That skinny grey tyres make it really looks
" handicapped " .

How about now?

[shirley_hkg]

How about now?

That's the chair I like .

Gained steering leverage means you need higher turning rate to cope with .

[Burgerman]

True. By about 5% if you notice! The real difference is less motor amps needed on every turn. But only slightly. But moving seating back, and footplate, makes a much greater difference, maybe 30% reduction in current. But it all helps.

[snaker]

BM, my chair is like in the below pic. Its seat can be moved backwards about 8cm. Should I move it as far as possible? Or is there a formula to calculate the right position?

[Burgerman]

No image?

There is no right position, only the best for you. I like my chairs light on the front, centre footplate so that your heels are between the caster wheels, and legs tucked as far back as the footplate/casters allow. That aids steering, feel, and allows less battery to be wasted steering, and gives better control on carpets, grass, slopes, ramps etc. And makes the chair shorter with no corners to hit doorframes etc when turning into rooms or turning around in a confined space. Also means a flat caster tyre or even one wheel missing does not prevent you getting home from the pub! Or even going to the pub!

Too far back gives less stability climbing a ramp forwards, and you tip out. But allows you to more safely decend a curb or ramp forwards. Best position is the one you prefer.

Look here: download/file.php?id=7710&mode=view
My back/my back is about 1.5 inch ahead of the rear wheel centre point. And my seat cusion front is about 1.5 inches behind the caster wheel barrel.

Look here: http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-con ... 3-crop.jpg
Same thing. Only more so. Why more? Because the new chair has 100lb of heavy seating up high! And it would tip me out on a ramp.

Then look at a stock chair: download/file.php?id=7709&mode=view
And look at the footrest position. It must be that far forwards as the caster rotates as you reverse.

And again on any normal rear drive powerchair:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/T0sj4tzbbJw/maxresdefault.jpg terrible chair!
http://www.sunrisemedical.eu/SunriseEU/ ... 03bb4b.jpg another!

But almost all are this way.