Jive/Salsa R2 mixture

[hank]

Excellent as always.
They are not clever enough to work
that out or would be doing.lol

[Burgerman]

I feel sure they could fit different wheels.

They would just make the hub to suit. I have the hard job, I have to make these three parts each side, to make their hub, work with my wheels...

[hank]

Get some more cheap wheels and some kits made up.
Sell loads.

[Burgerman]

I would get them CNC machined, anodised black, and about 10p each from china in lots of a 1000...

Because its way way too hard to make one by one with a pillar drill. And the accuracy you have to work to is too high. Takes ages to get them exactly right. But how many have the ability or confidence to even swap a wheel - even with a kit of parts? Most uusers wouldnt like the risk, warranty worry, and anything out of the norm. The manufacturers shoud do this. And the other stuff.

[hank]

Correct

[Burgerman]

Seriously, if I was going to do that I wouldnt make adapters just hubs. That fit 20mm taper or 20mm straight shafts as most bigger powerchairsuse one orthe other. That were if you like universal. So many different wheels could be fitted, with a selection of different depth spacers included. 3, 4 and 5, 6 studs. Drilled and tapped for all types. And sell on ebay. Red green, blue, gold or black anodised. And could sell various wheel and tyre combinations to suit all too.

It would be easy to organise, and build a database of chairs/motors/wheels that fit.

But other than a few techy types on here, nobody else would notice, car or buy. You would be better selling these as ready to go kits to say sunrise or invacare or whatever.

My chair has half a dozen small changes, lights shifted inboard so they dont clobber the bed, door frames etc, joystick shifted swingaway moved inboard 4 inches! And higher by 2 inches, and redrilled with bigger bolts/mountings so it does not wobble, so its actually controllable without a broken wrist. A centre fooplate that works (now its had a lump sawn off! And seat moved back 55mm) and the arms reconfigured. Black tyres, wider tubeless rears with off road sealer, and wider rims, + severely reprogrammed for torque and so it steers properly. The recline modified so it really now does recline much further, and the seating inhibits "modified" a little so it doesent totally piss me off. Lift, was included (not essential kit - but is useful some days could be left off this list with weight and cost savings and better seat stability).

All of these things, with 120A power module, 4 pole motors, single post arms, latest colour advanced R-net joystick, turned turned a basic cheap salsa nose heavy chair thats barely usable into a good accurate daily tool. This as far as I know is the best rear drive chair available anywhere commercially once modified. Lithium will sort its range issues out big style. As it did with my other chairs.

If they SOLD a chair configured exactly how I now have mine, it would sell 10x better than any other chair they offered. But they dont seem to get it. They dont do the last 10% to finish a chair and make it usable. And attractive to users. I dont mean sunrise, I mean the industry as a whole.

[hank]

I don’t think you could have described it any better
On what you have improved on custom built dialed in

Do you know if the Linux motor hubs are a straight
Swap with AMT ones tapered shafts.
If yes then more options for wheel change types.

[Burgerman]

I dont yet.

[Burgerman]

Done! Rims fitted. Just awaiting back/headrest. And removal of push handles.

[hank]

What a transformation now
Looks mint John.

[Burgerman]

Amazing how much difference a few small changes, seat position, modified centre footplate etc can make.

From nasty and unusable to cool and works!

Heres what they look like stock, note seat position.

She is sat over the front. Wont steer, no rear grip, drives like an oil tanker. And nothing you can do because her feet have to be in front of the casters as they rotate when reversing. Stupid. Even worse if you are fat! Your weight is even further forwards.

[hank]

You would think it was a different model chair now.
What pressure you running about 20-25 psi in rears.

[Burgerman]

Seat is only around 3 inches further back And feet maybe 4 inches too. But that makes a huge difference to controlability and feel. The slightly wider rear tyres give more steering "leverage" too, also helping steering response. Footplate still too big however. I see a saw in its future...

[Scooterman]

Your chair looks so much better than the standard chair.

[Burgerman]

When people look for wheelchair they also want something that looks cool. Cool sells!

You would think it was a different model chair now.
What pressure you running about 20-25 psi in rears.

No idea yet, still need to add the tyre sealer in all 4. And experiment with pressure. But about that.

[Burgerman]

That skinny grey tyres make it really looks
" handicapped " .

How about now?

[shirley_hkg]

How about now?

That's the chair I like .

Gained steering leverage means you need higher turning rate to cope with .

[Burgerman]

True. By about 5% if you notice! The real difference is less motor amps needed on every turn. But only slightly. But moving seating back, and footplate, makes a much greater difference, maybe 30% reduction in current. But it all helps.

[snaker]

BM, my chair is like in the below pic. Its seat can be moved backwards about 8cm. Should I move it as far as possible? Or is there a formula to calculate the right position?

[Burgerman]

No image?

There is no right position, only the best for you. I like my chairs light on the front, centre footplate so that your heels are between the caster wheels, and legs tucked as far back as the footplate/casters allow. That aids steering, feel, and allows less battery to be wasted steering, and gives better control on carpets, grass, slopes, ramps etc. And makes the chair shorter with no corners to hit doorframes etc when turning into rooms or turning around in a confined space. Also means a flat caster tyre or even one wheel missing does not prevent you getting home from the pub! Or even going to the pub!

Too far back gives less stability climbing a ramp forwards, and you tip out. But allows you to more safely decend a curb or ramp forwards. Best position is the one you prefer.

Look here: download/file.php?id=7710&mode=view
My back/my back is about 1.5 inch ahead of the rear wheel centre point. And my seat cusion front is about 1.5 inches behind the caster wheel barrel.

Look here: http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-con ... 3-crop.jpg
Same thing. Only more so. Why more? Because the new chair has 100lb of heavy seating up high! And it would tip me out on a ramp.

Then look at a stock chair: download/file.php?id=7709&mode=view
And look at the footrest position. It must be that far forwards as the caster rotates as you reverse.

And again on any normal rear drive powerchair:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/T0sj4tzbbJw/maxresdefault.jpg terrible chair!
http://www.sunrisemedical.eu/SunriseEU/ ... 03bb4b.jpg another!

But almost all are this way.

[Burgerman]

Dirty tyres...

Awaiting seat back, push handles to be removed...
Then other than the tie down bolt, and the lithium pack, we are done with it.

[hank]

John
Did you run tape measure across wheels for new width now fitted.

[Burgerman]

Yes. Its 27.75 inches and thats with a 10mm gap to the motors.
However I intend skimming about 7mm per side off each spacer leaving 3mm or 1/8th inch between tyre/motor case. So final width will be 14mm or half inch, less. So about 27.4 to 27.5 inches.

For a small person this would be a bad plan. Your chair would end up wider than need be. But when you consider that I am 20 stone plus, and use 18 or 20 inch cusion, and that with the "comfort" parred P shapes arms the chair is 27.5 wide anyway! So not a lot of advantage in a narrower tyre width. Now it all matches... So in my case this doesent make the chair wider. In most peoples cases it would.

And at 20psi it feels about right. Maybe 2 less. Nice big soft tyres deform and give a smoother ride than 36psi stock grey skinny ones. And of course these are a lot stronger and no tubes to pop/leak. So all around fair bit better for my purposes. And they look pretty good in real life compared to pictures.

[Swan T.W.]

Can it just recline?

[Burgerman]

Yes it can do all those things seperately. But you dont really use recline on its own. Tilting the seat back too is more usual to shift weight from backside to back for a bit. I spent about 6 months over 18 months period on my bed... Sick of it so trying something different. Cusions alone dont cut it! Right now I am up 2 hours at a time.

If you wanted to buy a chair with just tilt then most rehab type chairs offer that option. That was what I was going to do. Or just recline, or just legs, or just lift. But once you start ticking the boxes on the form it normally ends up fully loaded... £££££

Used to always keep an old chair around with lift for special occasions when needed. But I sold it... So Added lift too. Then legs, and recline, as the tick boxes were close by...

[hank]

Yes. Its 27.75 inches and thats with a 10mm gap to the motors.
However I intend skimming about 7mm per side off each spacer leaving 3mm or 1/8th inch between tyre/motor case. So final width will be 14mm or half inch, less. So about 27.4 to 27.5 inches.

For a small person this would be a bad plan. Your chair would end up wider than need be. But when you consider that I am 20 stone plus, and use 18 or 20 inch cusion, and that with the "comfort" parred P shapes arms the chair is 27.5 wide anyway! So not a lot of advantage in a narrower tyre width. Now it all matches... So in my case this doesent make the chair wider. In most peoples cases it would.

And at 20psi it feels about right. Maybe 2 less. Nice big soft tyres deform and give a smoother ride than 36psi stock grey skinny ones. And of course these are a lot stronger and no tubes to pop/leak. So all around fair bit better for my purposes. And they look pretty good in real life compared to pictures.

All sounds good and perfect for doorways with wide rims/tubeless tyres upgrade.

[Burgerman]

Gone ofF heideneu whatever they are called tyres. One keeps deflating, at the rim and they say tubeless but I dont think they are. The beads and interior do not look tubeless. Maybe fake? So ordered a set of proper ones!

[hank]

What you gone for Duro again

[Burgerman]

Yes because I never once had an issue in 20 years. I just reduced pressure to 3 psi. And pushed the tyre off the rim. Its supposed to be a tight fit over the two ridges. So I suspect the tyre is a fake and its or rather they are going back to shire bikes to let them figure it out.

I ordered a set of Duro tubeless 120/70 - 8, an hour back. Of course it could be the rims? But thats unlikely. Its easy to get dimensions right in alloy! I am going to measure them.

On the plus side I can tell you that its possible to drive even with the tyre deflated and off the rim. I went outside to find out. JUST! And its not easy.

[expresso]

Gone ofF heideneu whatever they are called tyres. One keeps deflating, at the rim and they say tubeless but I dont think they are. The beads and interior do not look tubeless. Maybe fake? So ordered a set of proper ones!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

i think its the same tire i am using - mines on tubes though - so far so good - its a strong tire - i feel safe with it - i do have add Air every so often - in the summer when i use it each day - i check it each week or two at least