Motor setup question with r net

[shirley_hkg]

It doesn't look right to me that the battery power 24a x 24v match with the 2 1000VA motors.

[Burgerman]

That is absolutely correct. And thats my chair!
What part doesent look correct?

Do you mean the fact that battery current is a fraction of the motor current?
Because that is correct! At stall/low pulsewidth.

As speed (motor RPM) increases the battery current at wide open throttle (max pusewidth) then occurs, so that motor volts and battery volts match. Because to maintain the same acceleration you must maintain the same motor current. To do this as speed increases the voltage has to increase at the motor. At around half max speed the 100% pulswidth occurs, in order to maintain max accelration. It this point battery current is 240A. For an instant. As speed increases further you cant maintain the 120A per motor because you would need ever more volts. And we only have 24. At the maximum speed acceleraton drops to zero because the motors are now running freely with little load (acceleration/load ceased), so current is now low at both battery and motors.

The reason that the approx 2kw applied to the motors is more than expected from the battery watts is because of a mix of the way the figures are measured and calculated and something called the flyback effect from the motors which markedly increaes motor current and cvoltage from that applied/measured. So it wont add up. If thats what you mean? The roboteq manual explains how this works quite well. What this amounts to is that the motor voltage applied is increased by the flyback effect when the pulse is "off" and so the voltage reads artificially too high. Well its real but its not what was "sent" to the motors. The motor coils discharge their stored energy during the off periods of the high frequency pulsewidth. Which causes the volts to spike upwards. Beyond the calculated pulsewidth voltage average.

[LROBBINS]

I think that these are the same in line geared motors as I used on Rachi's old FWD. Very expensive indeed, but there are few suitable inline motors out there. Brushes are internal - no brush caps. The brake is internal, but a bad brake coil would certainly be a possibility, and you should certainly be able to hear it click in and out.

New chair has Chinese industrial right angle motors with efficient bevel, spiral ground gears rather than worm gear and with an oil-filled gearcase. I don't remember what they cost via Alibaba, but it was a smallish fraction of what WC mfrs ask.

[Burgerman]

The issue is that he wont test anything. Its quite trivial to test a brake, by sound, feel, see it the motor can be turned by hand with the correct voltage applied etc.

Its also then easy to test to see if the gearbox feels normal by feeling for and listening for backlash, lack of smoothness, etc.

And while at it run it elevated at fullspeed and count the wheel rotations per minute. If both sides are similar with central joystick then its very unlikely to be any sort of motor issue. Might have a failed controller mosfet, bad connection, broken dodgy motor cable internally, etc all easy to find. Migt be a stuck brush which would double the resistance in the case of a 4 pole and so compensation wouldnt work and cause less torque on that motor. But thats not what the stall test showed.

But it needs someone to actually diagnose the problem, and document it.

The other issue is that its impossible to diagnose remotely if he will not answer simple repeated questions! I have reasons for asking. Its basically a way to find out what is the problem if any. It may just be unrealistic expectations and a lack of joystick skills/dodgy typical programming making any semblence of control impossible. So it seems to the poster that theres a fault when there isnt. But no sensible video, no replies to questions and he wont test anything. So no way to help. He needs a rover.