PINNED - Lithium battery conversion/info

[Scooterman]

You can also get flange nuts with a serrated flange Shirley I

https://www.thompsonseparts.co.uk/produ ... Z8QAvD_BwE

[shirley_hkg]

Yes , easy to get .

Ring terminals are ready .

OD : M6 is 14mm fits the cell terminal. M4 is 12mm, should not be too small.

Draws current from 2 cell terminals together, and hope they work

[expresso]

So best way to go then is Grub screw with blue locktite first - let dry - then flang nut either nylon lock or flang alone - with more locktite ?

blue locktite for the grub screw ?

[LROBBINS]

With the grub screw I think you can get away with blue locktite since you can put a hex key into it and keep it from turning while using a wrench to tighten or loosen the nut. Then if you ever need to remove it you can (with the hex key) while green is quite permanent unless heated to well above what the cells can handle.

[Burgerman]

But thats exactly what we want. Stanless thread permanantly.

And NOT flange nuts! How many times. Nyloc and a stainless flat washer.

[Scooterman]

Swivel flange nut
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... 68a8UdSuFZ

[expresso]

But thats exactly what we want. Stanless thread permanantly.

And NOT flange nuts! How many times. Nyloc and a stainless flat washer.

Ok no flange - and blue locktite on the grub screw - holding it as you tighten the nylon nut - as Lenny suggested - good idea to hold it - takes longer to do and have to be more careful - -- how much locktite to use and how to apply it correctly - since i may be overdoing it and not even applying it in the correct area

i would think apply it on the bottom end - so as you screw it down it turns and spreads it - or apply the whole screw long way - like a strip down the whole length ?

BM i though you said before not to use the nylon it may loosen the grub screw ?

[terry2]

But thats exactly what we want. Stanless thread permanantly.

And NOT flange nuts! How many times. Nyloc and a stainless flat washer.

Ok no flange - and blue locktite on the grub screw - holding it as you tighten the nylon nut - as Lenny suggested - good idea to hold it - takes longer to do and have to be more careful - -- how much locktite to use and how to apply it correctly - since i may be overdoing it and not even applying it in the correct area

i would think apply it on the bottom end - so as you screw it down it turns and spreads it - or apply the whole screw long way - like a strip down the whole length ?

BM i though you said before not to use the nylon it may loosen the grub screw ?

I will be using green or red loctite.
And I will screw each one in to measure how much goes in the hole.

Then put the loctite down and around the measured part and screw it in.
When it reaches the bottom, I will bck it off half a turn.
Then leave it for a solid 24 hours.

[expresso]

sounds good - i be afraid to use red or others because what if you have to remove it - you cant then -

i just found a cell online with them installed already - this is what would be nice - in my case - i have to figure out how long i need since i dont have much room to spare and total cant pass 9.5inch like a MK Gel is - i think this is good and never unscrew and rescrew again

[terry2]

sounds good - i be afraid to use red or others because what if you have to remove it - you cant then -

i just found a cell online with them installed already - this is what would be nice - in my case - i have to figure out how long i need since i dont have much room to spare and total cant pass 9.5inch like a MK Gel is - i think this is good and never unscrew and rescrew again

If you are using the 10mm bolt.
Then you know the full length is 14mm. I've got 12mm coming

[expresso]

i have used 10mm now and maybe 12mm on some

but what you have to be aware of is using the nylon nut - you need to screw it down enough to hit the nylon on top - not sure how thick the nut is - i have some i need to measure and figure it out - if lets say the hole itself is 8mm deep i will measure the rest of the stuff ring terminals - two of them with flat washer and nut and see how many MM that is - add that to 8mm and thats the size i will start with - i think 14 to 16mm and still be about 9 inches tall for me

[expresso]

https://smile.amazon.com/Tapping-Thread ... =8-1-fkmr0

another option - looks easier than the other kind - link above is not M6 size - just something i found

[Burgerman]

No...

Those are not helicoil repairs...

[Burgerman]

Look at this image.

download/file.php?id=10947&mode=view

Someone has done it CORRECTLY, as I already described, and linked to the same M6 studs, pages back...

Stainless studs as shown, firmly and permanantly installed.

Why on earth would you ever want to remove them? They need to be installed with green loctite as described so that you can use nuts, nyloc nuts, etc without them coming loose or stripping. And so that pulling on a wire does not loosen a nut it needs to be a nyloc, with a stainless steel washer, so that yanking a cable does not turn the nut. Which is why you dont want those nuts you linked to earlier.

[expresso]

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BD1G7KK/ ... _lig_dp_it

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MDYP86W/ ... _lig_dp_it


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07957MBB4/ ... _lig_dp_it

this is what i would use - does black make a difference ? for the worse i mean - with flat washer -

[expresso]

Look at this image.

download/file.php?id=10947&mode=view

Someone has done it CORRECTLY, as I already described, and linked to the same M6 studs, pages back...

Stainless studs as shown, firmly and permanantly installed.

Why on earth would you ever want to remove them? They need to be installed with green loctite as described so that you can use nuts, nyloc nuts, etc without them coming loose or stripping. And so that pulling on a wire does not loosen a nut it needs to be a nyloc, with a stainless steel washer, so that yanking a cable does not turn the nut. Which is why you dont want those nuts you linked to earlier.

i posted that picture - i found online - dont know of anyone who done it with pictures on here ? - locking them in permantant is good - as long as its certain the size you need and not too tall - - in my case where clearance is tight - if you have alot of room - not a issue - i would have to be 100% sure of the size i will use

i cant think of any reason to remove it once done - but with me things always happen after the fact - then i wont be able to remove at all - blue locktite wont be enough ? or maybe a bit stronger that can still be removed ?

[farmer]

expresso when you use locktite you only put a small drop on the threads on the side of the bolt or stud
not in the bottom of the hole

[expresso]

ok i never put it inside - but on the screw or bolt going in - i seen some put it along the whole screw like a line down the side -

when ever i used it - it always came out alot more than i wanted - so i am sure i overdid many of them - this was with headways cells

[farmer]

if you have trouble with to much coming outthen put a little in a bottle cap then take a toothpick and dip it in and then touch the threads you may ned to do that acouple
times but you wount put too much on

[expresso]

good idea - next time around - i will do that - or else i waste alot also

[shirley_hkg]

Once dripped on the stud , Loctite runs and spreads across threads by itself , itsn't it ?

Why bother that much ? Just control the amount you drip on it .

[Burgerman]

I think they are worried about waste. Too much is no problem. I buy larger bottles. Enough to never run out. I would put a little on the thread inside the hole. And on the first 4 or 5 threads on the end of any bolt or stud. (Blue on bolt. Green or never to be removed on the stud if you decide to do that.). I will do that on those cells.

[terry2]

My latest graph from a charge today.
Funny this is I put in more AH than I took out

[Burgerman]

What you took out was very accurate.

What you put back is ALWAYS more than you take out. Usually with lead its around 30% more than what you take out. With lithium its usually much closer. Typically 3 to 4 % extra. Because charging wastes energy as heat, recombination of gasses, etc.

[Scooterman]

Going to get hold some EVE-LF105 cells , directly from factory . 105Ah rated and brand new .

It has M4 threads , 6mm deep only , and recommend 8Nm.

Says 4mm in spec but mine are 6mm. They must make cells in m4 and m6 unless they discontinued m6?

[shirley_hkg]

I knew it from the beginning. Just never thought I would be able to acquire them new , on Taobao .

I use two cells. Should be OK, with enough contact area.

[expresso]

BM is this the loctite to use on the grub screws ?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000P1FY6O/ ... _lig_dp_it

[ex-Gooserider]

I would STRONGLY advise against drilling with a hand held drill as you have a VERY high risk of destroying your cells!

If you go to deep, you will drill through the terminal and into the cell, which will ruin it... On a Headway (I'm not sure about the flat cells) one terminal is the overpressure vent which is also easily damaged....

With a hand held drill you have little or no control of your depth - and this is a case where going to deep is going to destroy things....

If drilling into damaged threads, I have seen drills 'grab' and twist their way in deeper than planned...

Also if drilling for any thread, you need very precise diameter on the finished hole, to loose and the new threads won't be any good, to tight (unlikely) and there will be problems tapping... Hand held drills tend to wobble, resulting in oversized holes.

The ONLY way I would even consider drilling a cell is if I had a mill or drill press (pillar drill for them Brits that don't speak English so good.... ) with a good depth stop and a fixture to hold the cells (could be as simple as a vice) in a repeatable position so that I had exact control of how deep I was drilling.... Mill bits make lousy drills in most cases, but for something like this, I'd consider using the right diameter flat end mill bit so that I could cut full diameter to the bottom of the hole instead of having the pointy area of a regular drill...

I'm not religious about using Helicoils vs. other threaded inserts, assuming I have enough 'meat' on the outside of the hole to support the insert, and that I'm ending up with the right size threaded hole...

Definitely use green / PERMANENT Loctite, NOT the Blue...

Nylock nuts should NOT be used as the 'inside' nut of a lock-nut setup - i.e. don't try to screw something down onto the nylon insert end.....

ex-Gooserider

[expresso]

Nylon nuts - not be used ? i though i read BM said to use them -

the idea is - use green locktite on the grub screws - then add your ring terminals etc and nylon lock nut on top thats it -

is this not correct ?

[Burgerman]

Yes. With 1 flat washer under the NYLOC nut. A nylon nut looks like this: