PINNED - Lithium battery conversion/info

[Scooterman]

If possible would you be able to pick me one up Shirley .

I'll throw in one .

.

[Scooterman]

SB50 with half a metre of 8awg cables @£2 only. Great deal and hassle-free .

Available in 6awg wires too .

Ooh they're a steal at that price, count me in.

I'll let you know later which size and how many

One good tug on the wires and off they will come...

Bit like a loose woman's knickers

[shirley_hkg]

Thy are only crimped though. One good tug on the wires and off they will come...

Can ask not to put the pins in , so you can solder it .

[LROBBINS]

It's easy to add solder to already crimped connectors. A little paste flux into the "bell" of the pin, a mini-torch for head down near the contact end of the crimp, and fine tin-lead solder at the bell. When hot enough the solder flows like water from the colder to the hotter part of the tube.

[Scooterman]

a mini-torch

I'm going to get myself one of them if I've got any money left after I've given it all to Shirley

[expresso]

You can just make your own cables - may come out even better than buss bars in the end - takes a bit more time but works when all else fails

They look great.
Have you got any links to the parts you used dude?

I waited a week so the guy could get the connectors. Now how he tells me it will be another 2 weeks
So I told him to send the cells asap.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/36568/H ... yelet-Lug/

this is what i used with 8 awg wire - crimp - solder - heatshrink done - take a bit more time but its solid when done - you can use thicker on the power cables if you like also 6 awg and leave the 8 awg for the rest of the connections -

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... 36769.html you can try them also -

[Scooterman]

SB50 with half a metre of 8awg cables @£2 only. Great deal and hassle-free .

If still available would you be able to put my down for FOUR of the 8 AWG size please Shirley. If I don't use all four on the conversion they will come in handy for a future project I haven't thought of yet

[shirley_hkg]

a mini-torch

I'm going to get myself one of them if I've got any money left after I've given it all to Shirley

You will be on rock soon , once you are open to taobao's deal … shopaholic

[shirley_hkg]

would you be able to put my down for FOUR of the 8 AWG size please Shirley.

Which one is your pick ? Or both ?

[shirley_hkg]

It costs me more than £2 , just to get a plug & one metre of cable .

What are they selling ?

[Scooterman]

Oh sorry I didn't realise there were two types, silly me

Can I have TWO of each type please Shirley.

By the way, I was thinking do they sell them with 10 AWG cable?

I was wondering whether 10 awg might be enough?

My scooter PM is single channel and is rated at 100A continuous, 120A instantaneous. The single motor is rated at 42A continuous.

But because I'm lightweight I don't think the scooter uses many amps except when pulling away from a standstill.

What size cable would you advise?

[Scooterman]

The power cable Sunrise used on the scooter doesn't look very thick, but they must have done their calcs so its obviously thick enough

[shirley_hkg]

But bespoke items may cost you even more , I guess.

You should get yourself spare SB50 bare plugs too. They are cheap here , & lots of choices .

[Scooterman]

But bespoke items may cost you even more , I guess.

You should get yourself spare SB50 bare plugs too. They are cheap here , & lots of choices .

Okey Dokey

Can you choose for me please Shirley. I'm not really exactly sure what I will need until I get help lifting the seat and bodywork off the scooter to access the electrics.

If they're cheap, any electrical parts left over will more than likely come in handy for jobs/projects in the future.

I'l pay you for whatever you choose.

Bare in mind my scooter is only 120A max single channel so probably doesn't draw as many amps as a big powerful dual channel powerchair

[terry2]

You can just make your own cables - may come out even better than buss bars in the end - takes a bit more time but works when all else fails

They look great.
Have you got any links to the parts you used dude?

I waited a week so the guy could get the connectors. Now how he tells me it will be another 2 weeks
So I told him to send the cells asap.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/36568/H ... yelet-Lug/

this is what i used with 8 awg wire - crimp - solder - heatshrink done - take a bit more time but its solid when done - you can use thicker on the power cables if you like also 6 awg and leave the 8 awg for the rest of the connections -

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ ... 36769.html you can try them also -

Thanks again

[shirley_hkg]

@Scooterman , bought you 4 sets ; 2 with ring terminals / 2 with bare cable ends, 4 extra 50A Andersons.

Less than £12.00

[shirley_hkg]

I'm gonna use this 0.5mm self-adhesive fibre paper as insulator between cells. Cheap , robust and easy to work with .

[Scooterman]

@Scooterman , bought you 4 sets ; 2 with ring terminals / 2 with bare cable ends, 4 extra 50A Andersons.

Less than £12.00

Cheers thanks Shirley

I'm gonna use this 0.5mm self-adhesive fibre paper as insulator between cells. Cheap , robust and easy to work with .

Shirley I've been looking at the cell terminals, and as you obviously know the threaded hole isn't very deep, probably about 5mm-7mm?

Rather than using bolts I was thinking of using locktite with something like 15mm M6 stainless grubscrews with a nut, washer, and spring washer.

It would create a 'post' terminal. I have plenty of headroom on the scooter. And once the grubscrew is locked in place it would never need be removed if the cells had to be disconnected at a later date.

From past experience I've learn that aluminium threads don't like being disturbed too often.

I can't remember what I asked you to get me regarding bits And bobs. But if you've bought me bolts that's find I'll still take them. I'm not 100% committed on the grubscrew idea, I was hoping to get your's and others opinion first before committing on it.

[shirley_hkg]

I haven't bought your bolts .

I'm doing the same ; implanting a stud, with T2 pure copper parts instead of stainless steel . Aluminum threads are weak after all. Better conductivity counts .

I bought these myself .

[expresso]

@Scooterman , bought you 4 sets ; 2 with ring terminals / 2 with bare cable ends, 4 extra 50A Andersons.

Less than £12.00

Cheers thanks Shirley

I'm gonna use this 0.5mm self-adhesive fibre paper as insulator between cells. Cheap , robust and easy to work with .

Shirley I've been looking at the cell terminals, and as you obviously know the threaded hole isn't very deep, probably about 5mm-7mm?

Rather than using bolts I was thinking of using locktite with something like 15mm M6 stainless grubscrews with a nut, washer, and spring washer.

It would create a 'post' terminal. I have plenty of headroom on the scooter. And once the grubscrew is locked in place it would never need be removed if the cells had to be disconnected at a later date.

From past experience I've learn that aluminium threads don't like being disturbed too often.

I can't remember what I asked you to get me regarding bits And bobs. But if you've bought me bolts that's find I'll still take them. I'm not 100% committed on the grubscrew idea, I was hoping to get your's and others opinion first before committing on it.

thats a good idea to use those if you have room - less to worry - i didnt even think about it with my cells - just screwed them down locktite - a reasonable tightness - nothing too extreme - but this way is safer and you have the room -

[swalker]

The specs for the 176ah Prismatic cells I have on order call for an M6x7 bolt.

I have found various lengths of stainless M6 bolts at my local hardware store that I think will work. I won't know for sure until I receive the cells and can try various sized bolts in them.

I am quite concerned about someone over torquing the bolts and stripping out the aluminum threads in the cell.

Steve

[swalker]

Is that fish paper with adhesive on one side?

If so, do you have any concerns about the potential for exposure to water or high humidity?

I still have not decided what to use to insulate the cells, but have seriously considered fish paper.

I'm gonna use this 0.5mm self-adhesive fibre paper as insulator between cells.

Steve

[shirley_hkg]

Ah ha, didn't know it's called "fish paper".

[expresso]

The specs for the 176ah Prismatic cells I have on order call for an M6x7 bolt.

I have found various lengths of stainless M6 bolts at my local hardware store that I think will work. I won't know for sure until I receive the cells and can try various sized bolts in them.

I am quite concerned about someone over torquing the bolts and stripping out the aluminum threads in the cell.

Steve

M6 is the bolt size and the 7 is the length ?

if so - you would want to have about 1 inch sticking up ? this is something to consider when checking the specs if they fit a chair or space anyone would have -

[shirley_hkg]

do you have any concerns about the potential for exposure to water or high humidity?

Steve

They will be inside a 1.5mm thick SS battery box ,
which is responsible for protection and weather exclusion , not by the insulator inside .

If water leaks into box, no insulation can save the cells .

That's what I think .

[Scooterman]

The specs for the 176ah Prismatic cells I have on order call for an M6x7 bolt.

I have found various lengths of stainless M6 bolts at my local hardware store that I think will work. I won't know for sure until I receive the cells and can try various sized bolts in them.

I am quite concerned about someone over torquing the bolts and stripping out the aluminum threads in the cell.

Steve

M6 is the bolt size and the 7 is the length ?

if so - you would want to have about 1 inch sticking up ? this is something to consider when checking the specs if they fit a chair or space anyone would have -

7mm will be the length. But that is probably just enough to accommodate 1mm bus bar and no ring terminals for balance cables. I think stud is better idea as no fear of bolt bottoming out and stripping thread.
If a thread was to strip out you might be able to tap it over size or get a a 3/4" piece of aluminium angle MIG/TIG welded on the terminal?

[Scooterman]

Like this. These are bolts, but all I got for now.

BTW has anyone any experience of using locktite? I was thinking of using it to keep the stud in place but have never used it before. I see it comes in different strengths???

[Scooterman]

I haven't bought your bolts .

I'm doing the same ; implanting a stud, with T2 pure copper parts instead of stainless steel . Aluminum threads are weak after all. Better conductivity counts .

I bought these myself .

I'd forgotten that you were doing that Shirley, but remember you posting about the copper studs earlier.

I will try some stainless studs and rely on the the contact area between the top of terminal and underside of the ring terminal. But am interested in the results you get with the copper studs.

I'm doing a bench test of the cells this weekend I will do what you did and cycle them in two 8S packs. And see how cells are and how good my temporaryconnections are!

[shirley_hkg]

It's the PITCH of thread .

[Scooterman]

It's the PITCH of thread .

Is it! Shows how much I know NOT!!!

Serves me right for trying to be all clever