They are LiitoKala, I don't know if you also call them EVE.
hey are actually LG cells. Model : INR18650HG2 3000mAh
Internal resistance SHOULD BE 20mOhm each when fully charged. It actually measures 526mOhm!!!
They should fully charge in 1 hour and terminate at 50mA at 4.200V. They never get there after 4 hours...
They should be 3000mAh capacity. I have not tested yet. But will test if I can get any of them to ever reach 50mA termination point. I doubt they will.
Dont buy from LiitoKala scammers.
shirley_hkg wrote: 220Ah for a friend's OTTO BOCK B3 with long and narrow compartment .
Gum fish / gasket paper between cells , and all are contained in an U-shape plastic duct .
Initial charge . MOS_less BMS for charging only. Direct output to wheelchair.
Rule of thumb 26.15V (chair stopped for a while to let things stabilise) equals to 75% DOD - safe and allows enough in reserve that no need to monitor individual cells. This is RESTING voltage. So recharge if it doesent go up beyond 26.15v after waiting a short while (5 to 10 mins?)
25.70v rest voltage = 88% discharged. You never want to go less than this for several reasons.
1. it shortens service life to go lower.
2. it allows enough in reserve that a single cell will not likely drop below a safe voltage level.
So you just need a decent volt meter. Dont trust some un-calibrated eBay nonsense unless you test this yourself against a known reference.
For e.g: I use the PL8 charger to remove 75Ah from a known good 100Ah pack. So that is 75% discharged. Then I read the voltage from whatever device you use to do this. Also LOOK at the LED lights on your controller so that you can also use these as a guide. Those all vary depending on controller and its configuration etc. But if you test yours individually in this way, you will know whats really safe on YOUR system. But a seperate voltmeter is better. A cheap LED Ebay one can be used. But if your joystick lights drop at this 75% point then that is good enough.
Or make a note of joystick lights, as soon as you lose one, RECHARGE and see how many Ah you put back read from the charger. Thats likely a big percentage of the pack. Do the maths! You will soon learn what AH returned equates to a light (maybe 2 lights) actually is.
If you have fitted the 230Ah cells linked above, then you need not worry. YOU will tire out long before the battery! Thats why you should fit 230Ah cells in the first place. Or at least as big as possible in your setups space. It pretty much garantees that high discharge C rates are impossible, (so long cell life) and that average depth of discharge is very low (again long service life) , and that you dont really need to monitor the pack during the day at all. So garanteeing no damage, no range anxiety, and a 10 to 15 year service life with great reliabiliy. Its the way to go.
IF you wish to use that extra 25% range, (a typical extra 20 miles, after alredy using approx 60) then you would be well advised to use a cheap cell monitor so you can be sure you never allow the LOWEST cell to go below say 2.7V. At this point you will have typically 80 miles range. And thats a bit crazy. Obviously individual chairs an users vary a fair bit. So do your OWN checks as you use the chair and make a note of voltages before charging and the Ah returned.
michaelg wrote: but I feel like the 105s will still be a huge upgrade for me.
Your call for ZXD2400 is answered below.michaelg wrote: Does anyone know how much shirleyHK sells his power supplies for so I can compare with what I'm finding online?
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