Schultz5905 wrote:Does the cable from the U.K. in the original posts still work?
I have found no mention of the fact that many modern PCs or laptops have a setting in the BIOS which switches off the serial port (The old wide RS232C one).
woodygb wrote:Note that I can supply the leads should you wish.
If your in Denmark you have a branch of Mouser.
https://www.mouser.dk/ftdi/
As for the Solo D50052/6:
Has anyone experienced that the engine driver/solenoid brake suddenly stops working. Everything else works fine but from one second to another it would stop working. I have experienced it with two controllers mounted in the same test board I have a feeling that a resistor mounted in place of the solenoid brake was causing the issue as this was on 30R and 20W instead of the nominel 50R.
LROBBINS wrote:Dynamic controllers will NOT use the same programming software as P&G. I've worked with Dynamic DX but never the Rhino, and I don't know if anyone lese here has either, so haven't any specific advice to offer. Your first step is probably to go to the Dynamic web site and download all of the manuals - installation, technical, user (whatever is there) for the Rhino. The wiring and programming methods should probably be the same for all variants of the Rhino system. I don't know if the dongle-less software that John has gotten a hold of for Dynamic DX will work with the Rhyno, nor whether the Wizard software works for the Rhino as well as the DX, but the manuals should tell you what you'll need.
woodygb wrote:The controller software doesn't seem to care much about a correct resistance value as it's usually just checking for an open circuit.
I use a 24v relay ....this gives an audible indication of the brakes being set or released....if you use one with a clear case you'll also get a visual indication .
A low wattage 24v bulb should also work instead of a resistor.
I managed to find a scheme that told me to solder a regular USB->RS232 to match a S-VHS(Hirose) 5-pin connector. The drawing did not show which side the plug was to be seen from so I might have soldered it the wrong way. - Is there a drawing/manual for soldering this connector out there somewhere? If not, would it be an idea if I did one when I have figured out how it is done?
woodygb wrote:I managed to find a scheme that told me to solder a regular USB->RS232 to match a S-VHS(Hirose) 5-pin connector. The drawing did not show which side the plug was to be seen from so I might have soldered it the wrong way. - Is there a drawing/manual for soldering this connector out there somewhere? If not, would it be an idea if I did one when I have figured out how it is done?
Does this help.... I'm fairly sure that I've drawn it correctly.
BulldozerDK wrote:At least for the Solo drives the relay inside it is the activating/deactivating the Solenoid brake mounted on the back of the motor.
There is only this one relay in the solo driver and it is for the solenoid brake, at least in the scooters I've been around it is very audible, also in regular use.
the joystick managed chairs I have have only been for scrapping until now(have a working example coming in at some point soon though). So I do not know how they are different from the regular scooters I've been around.
Oh, and the motors cannot run if the solenoid brake is enabled, they are simply not powerfull enough.
At least for the Solo drives the relay inside it is the activating/deactivating the Solenoid brake mounted on the back of the motor.
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