Oggi wrote:
I actually bought the 5V TTL version and it worked fine
.
BulldozerDK wrote:woodygb wrote:Yes ...
You need the Industrial software for the SOLO.
I have to ask two questions;
First of, I've tried reading through hundreds of contributions on this site, some of it gives me some insight, but I cannot seem to find a conclusive answer to the two questions I am sitting with;
First of all, In order to make a communication cable for the Solo driver would I need to just take a regular USB-> Serial adapter, connect the 4 pins to each of the 4 pins on the controller or do I need to find the diode and and install it connecting the TX and RX cable to one pin on one of the controller?
Woudl I need to modify the USB->Serial connector in anyway? And how? - or would I just need to use a direct USB cable with no serial adapter in between? Connecting the same parts?
SEcond questions, everywhere is mentioned that for programming the Solo controller I would need the industrial software, but I can't find a single place explaining where to get this software? This might be obvious for some people, but apparently I am lost at this point
I am sure that both questions have been answered before in the forum, but I simply can't seem to find the conclusive answers to any of the two questions.
I sincerely hope that someone will be able to assist me creating the adapter and getting hold of the software. - Thanks in advance!
woodygb wrote:S-Drive is programmed using the Mobility Software & the Solo is programmed using the Industrial software.
I have no idea exactly what your "manufacturer software" is.
woodygb wrote:The Mobility software comes as you say in various levels.
Service
Dealer
O.E.M.( original equipment manufacturer )
Manufacturer
Factory
The Industrial Software ...as far as I'm aware... has just the one level ...possibly 2 if there is a Factory level.
Two separate lots of Software and they cover different controller groups.
Both are P.G.D.T
Had the batteries tested as well today there good
woodygb wrote:Check your P.M.
Burgerman wrote:Had the batteries tested as well today there good
Define tested? Takes about 30 to 40 hours to test one properly.
Burgerman wrote:You can buy those battery testers, many makes. All useless in reality for deep cycle batteries.
To measure Ah, you must discharge them individually at the 10 or the 20 hour rate, and measure capacity in Ah out. After PROPERLY charging them. And discharning to 10.8V typically, see manufacturer specs.
Resistance can be measured as AC impedance by those machines,but the result you get tells you little unless he charged them for 16 hours first and then looked up the correct normal value from the battery manufacturer.
woodygb wrote:Check your messages.
I assume that you know the Com Port number that Windows assigned to your FTDI lead ?... ( it MUST be a number between 1 & 8 inclusive ).
Also that YOU must tell the software which Com Port number is being used?... click on ..TOOLS ...Comm Port ...select number
Finally ...Is the joystick turned ON?
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