Burgerman wrote:HOW/Why is it cheaper?
The verion of dynamics software we use uses an emulation for the dongle.
woodygb wrote:Yes ...
You need the Industrial software for the SOLO.
woodygb wrote:
http://homepages.spa.umn.edu/~frahm/CustomCable2.pdf
You simply alter the connector in the above guide....note the guide wasn't made by me.
Careful with the colours in my pic as they do not match that of the recommended FTDI lead ...rather than a cheap Chinese Ebay purchase... which are Yellow RX, Orange TX ,Red + and Black-.
Software can sometimes pop up in private messages.
Schultz5905 wrote:Does the cable from the U.K. in the original posts still work?
I have found no mention of the fact that many modern PCs or laptops have a setting in the BIOS which switches off the serial port (The old wide RS232C one).
woodygb wrote:Note that I can supply the leads should you wish.
If your in Denmark you have a branch of Mouser.
https://www.mouser.dk/ftdi/
As for the Solo D50052/6:
Has anyone experienced that the engine driver/solenoid brake suddenly stops working. Everything else works fine but from one second to another it would stop working. I have experienced it with two controllers mounted in the same test board I have a feeling that a resistor mounted in place of the solenoid brake was causing the issue as this was on 30R and 20W instead of the nominel 50R.
LROBBINS wrote:Dynamic controllers will NOT use the same programming software as P&G. I've worked with Dynamic DX but never the Rhino, and I don't know if anyone lese here has either, so haven't any specific advice to offer. Your first step is probably to go to the Dynamic web site and download all of the manuals - installation, technical, user (whatever is there) for the Rhino. The wiring and programming methods should probably be the same for all variants of the Rhino system. I don't know if the dongle-less software that John has gotten a hold of for Dynamic DX will work with the Rhyno, nor whether the Wizard software works for the Rhino as well as the DX, but the manuals should tell you what you'll need.
woodygb wrote:The controller software doesn't seem to care much about a correct resistance value as it's usually just checking for an open circuit.
I use a 24v relay ....this gives an audible indication of the brakes being set or released....if you use one with a clear case you'll also get a visual indication .
A low wattage 24v bulb should also work instead of a resistor.
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