by LROBBINS » 31 Oct 2012, 18:43
I think that I did misunderstand what you were asking about. Are you wanting to substitute just the joystick pot and feed directly into the electronics in the joystick pod? If so, yes that can be done, and indeed on my daughter's first chair that's exactly how her head and foot switch control was implemented 20+ years ago. I don't seem to have a copy of the old schematic on my computer (it was probably just drawn on a piece of paper), but basically the switches just selected among 4066 digital-analog switches to engage voltage divider taps for forward, reverse, left and right. The outside of the voltage divider was attached across the supply leads to the joystick pot, and the taps fed to the signal lines from the pot to the chair's single board analog computer. On that chair, the joystick pot was turned 45o to the chair axis, so the two outputs were directly left motor and right motor. On modern chairs, the joystick is usually in line with the chair axis so that one output is forward-aft and the other is left-right with the mixing for the two motors done in the computer. You could also directly connect voltage dividers with switches, but by using the 4066 as an intermediate a single SPST switch can select the dividers for both channels; it's actually cheaper, simpler and more reliable. (It also means that the analog signal is only traveling between the box with the 4066s and the pod, not up to your head or feet or whatever, and what's on those "long" wires is just a nice solid on or off; see below where I mention EMF concerns.) These days it would probably be even cheaper to use a microcomputer to do the selection.
It actually doesn't much matter what the voltage to the pot is on your controller, nor whether it is real DC or pulsed DC - you're going to be dividing that with some resistors to get the two outputs. 50% will surely be "neutral" and you could even figure out the swing needed using some regular potentiometers - it's usually less than a 0 to supply voltage swing so that 0 or supply are sensed as errors that mean something is disconnected.
Basically simple, but there is a serious thing to consider about doing things this way. These are analog signals going into a (probably high impedance CMOS) circuit. There is a risk of electrical noise sensitivity. Within the chair pod those wires are short, and perhaps just twisted to reduce noise. If you are going to have a remotely mounted voltage divider, it would be best to keep the lines from it as short as possible, shielded and with ferrites, and then do some testing around strong EMI sources before trusting your bottom to the chair. On Rachi's old chair this wasn't as much a concern as the analog computer was not CMOS and had some fairly good built in noise rejection because it was receiving it's own analog joystick input on a long cable too. So, it can be done fairly simply, and Burgerman has done this for RC control, but some caution is in order.
The other approach is to go from your switches to something that puts out the appropriate CAN signals - and for P&G that's the OMNI, but it is a pretty expensive option and you'd still need the P&G programming stuff. On Rachi's current chair with a Dynamic DX controller, the switches connect to a DX-4SW box that sends CAN to a DX-SCR so there are no voltage dividers and no analog signals. It still has an adapter that contains 1 4049 and five 4066, but that's so that the switch outputs can be multiplexed to control her voice output computer and other stuff as well as the chair rather than for selecting voltage dividers.
I'll send you that pdf about CAN basics.
Ciao,
Lenny