by LROBBINS » 22 Nov 2012, 15:57
Woody,
Markup said that the riser is controlled from a separate "joypad", not from the joystick. As it's not mentioned in the description either you or I found, it probably is an "add on". Whether that riser is completely separate from the P&G controller, or operates through it we have no way of knowing. That joypad might just work relays to send the actuator in one direction or the other.
Markup,
In the absence of any other information, the first thing to check is that all cables are properly plugged in. Even if they look plugged in, it sometimes pays to unplug and re-plug them to make sure contacts are "clean". The lift actuator probably has limit switches: either within the actuator, or somewhere else on the lift mechanism. If one of these has failed, or if something has gotten stuck in whatever actuates it, the lift will go in only one direction, but never come back. Check visually, and if you know how to use an ohmeter, check electrically. For example, disconnect the cable that goes from the actuator to whatever box controls it. If that cable has just two contacts, testing is pretty simple. Ohmeter in low resistance setting, look for continuity and a low resistance between the two contacts of the actuator cable. Then reverse the two test leads. Do you get the same low but not zero reading in both directions? If so, either there are no internal limit switches, or they are both in their correct, closed, state. If one direction reads infinite ohms and the other direction reads near 0, then one limit switch is open and the other closed. This is normal if the actuator is at its end-of-travel; it will prevent the actuator from continuing to push when at the end, but let it go in the other direction. If the actuator is in a middle position, they both should be closed; of one is open when the actuator is not at end of travel, there's a bad or blocked switch or a broken wire. If you get an infinite reading in both directions, there's an open circuit somewhere between that connector and the actuator or in one of the diodes that are usually put across the contacts of each limit switch to allow movement in the opposite direction when a switch opens.
If there are more than 2 contacts, the situation can be more complex - there may, for example, be external limit switches, or some fancy position sensor (though I doubt the latter on a chair of this sort).
If there are only 2 contacts, you can also test whether the actuator runs if directly connected to the batteries, and reverses when the polarity of the connection reverses. If the actuator itself works OK both up and down, and you can't find a fault in the wiring, there's probably a problem in the control box. If that "joypad" connects to a separate box or board and you can get a look at it, you may find that it just has relays similar to what you find in cars. It's not too hard to check whether a relay is dead, and if it is they shouldn't be too hard to find - even if they're 24 rather than 12V. If it's some microcomputer module, the simplest "fix" may be, as Woody suggests, to get rid of the control box and wire in a DPDT switch in its place (assuming the user can physically work such a switch).
If you are not comfortable working around electricity, do find someone who is. Someone who works on auto electrics should have no problem with the much simpler wiring of a wheelchair.
Ciao,
Lenny