PINNED - Where to find everything powerchair related

[Es*]

I fully agree width matters a lot - my Dragon is 24 inches wide, so anything wider and I really feel it. For this reason, I was planning to do slightly narrower rear wheels, attempting to keep more 'within the frame' and accepting the reduced lateral stability. If I can lose some width without reducing tyre contact then all the better. So, if I understand you correctly, you are suggesting putting a thick bit of steel welded only to the centre section, at 90 to it. This would mean that the motors are mostly held by the rose joints to the frame, and that this steel is mostly keeping the motors positioned in the right place? I can't see that a bit of steel, even a thick bit, attached only by a sliver at the end would be particularly structurally strong on its own? If it's not going to fall apart, that sounds like a good plan. Will play around and see what I come up with...
Definitly can't do 90angle going the other way - not enough space.

[Es*]

Actually, couldn't I do a 90angle going up, but bore a largeish hole to house the bolt for the rose joint which will be attaching it to the frame?

I realise I'm no artist, but like this. Red bits are the angled plates, going up. Blue circles are cut outs for the rose joint nuts at the end. Is there anything else that will clash that I'm missing? I'm thinking that if I drill the holes for the motors to attach really really close to the angle, then the angle itself will go upwards from the motor, rather than outside of the motor, and I should still save a few mm. Should I make this another thread? Sorry!

[Burgerman]

You cant save any mm if you use angle as the motor mounting bolts need to be where the vertical part is. Grab an angle, and a motor and have a look.

Better to use flat bar, welded to the centre section side. Make sure the welder gigs it accurately, and welds 10mm each side at a time, and not where the motor bolt holes will be. Drill first obviously.

[Es*]

I know what you mean - I didn't think I could save the entire amount that way, just get the holes as close in as possible to the thickened angle bit.

I don't think I can see what you mean about the bar. The only thing I can think of is below - but the second seems extremely heavy, and the first rather weak? Perhaps you meant something else entirely. Please ignore the terrible pictures, particularly of bolts and rose joints - I think it shows what I mean.

[Es*]

Actually, the lower one is impossible because of the freewheel mechanism, anyway.... I don't know what you mean.

[Burgerman]

Top one. But you have the alloy bar in the wrong place. Its no weaker than the angle. Just takes less space. No need for the centre section + angle to be doubled up.

[Es*]

you have the alloy bar in the wrong place

The aluminium and rose joints? Yeah - I know. But the steel angle is about right?

The organisation of rose joints will be slighting different anyway - I think my F55 frame is a different version to yours.

[Burgerman]

It doesn't much matter as long as it is close to the tyre, to take the user weight. And stop any twisting.

[Lord Chatterley]

BM, where did you find those washered hinges at the foot of the battery box door of the BM3 - they seem to have only 3 segments -they look like engineers hinges rather than cheap and nasty door hinges- nice!

LC

[Burgerman]

Ebay...

Stainless steel hinges with needle bearings. Overkill. But they work nice!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

[Lord Chatterley]

I can't see any like yours with 3? sections - do you retain a record of the seller's id?

LC

[Burgerman]

No. And now I think of it they MAY have come from B and Q...

I am not sure what you mean by 3 sections?

[Lord Chatterley]

Yeah, I went to B & Q this afternoon but they only had one type of hinge in stock - I was just trying to avoid the usual hassle of buying something online based on a pic that looks nothing like the stuff that will arrive!

Those washered hinges on ebay mostly have 5 sections-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-Polished-Stainless-Steel-Washered-Butt-Hinge-3-x-2-B4293-/261087411595?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Door_Accessories_LE&hash=item3cca05bd8b#ht_786wt_900

...whereas the pics of BM3 seem to show 3? hard to tell?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sat-Stainless-Steel-Self-Lubricating-Hinge-J2050SSS/250670102065?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16581%26meid%3D3078487917135647571%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D7839%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D261087411594%26#ht_1198wt_900

...most people would not notice these details but those on the BM3 look cool - are they 3 or 5?

LC

[Burgerman]

Mine are ball raced or needle roller.
The ones you linked to have no bearings and a bronze sleeve.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... d&_sacat=0

[Lord Chatterley]

Mine are ball raced or needle roller.
The ones you linked to have no bearings and a bronze sleeve.

I know - that is my point - I cannot find a hinge with THREE sections of that size and type, so I had to post a picture of a different type of hinge to show the difference between a 5-segment hinge and a 3-segment hinge.

The links you have posted show 5 segment hinges but on your BM3 the hinges APPEAR to have only 3-segments -



LC

[Burgerman]

In true super OCD clean and polished way-over-the-top build style, and with sensible sized detailed photos, heres a few pics!

http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-construction/

Those let you see how truly OTT I take chair building lark! I don't do finger prints, or chisel marks. Stems from building show bikes and drag bikes.
If you see a non polished bolt, or a spec of dust, its because those bits are unfinished. It is of course much more finished now. But these pics show the hinges better.



Now in these pictures I can see what you mean. But honestly never noticed any difference and cannot for the life of see why it would make any difference?

[Lord Chatterley]

It makes hardly any difference!!

Except ---------- 3 segments look nicer and I can't find any!!

[Your OCD is contagious!]

LC

[funkykeyboard]

Post one;
I started doing a page here http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/powerchair-parts.htm

But kept getting sidetracked. So will link that page to this topic here.

So feel free to add links here. And to update and delete as needed.

Pride (overpriced) parts here in the US (Full parts and prices catalogue) http://www.southwestmedical.com/replace ... -mobility/

Sunrise (in the UK - There are others in other countries) http://parts.sunrisemedical.eu/uk/login/login.php use guest, guest for login/pass.

Give each post a new title so these links can be searched. And I will make this a sticky.



Post two;
If you want Groove 8mph motors (rwd), these are the part numbers from Sunrise Medical (see post 1):
014827 MOTOR 13KPH SIDE B 06/08/10 1 £385.18
014828 MOTOR 13KPH SIDE A 06/08/10 1 £385.18
010383 HUB 2x £28.19
015261 MOTOR COVER KIT £6.02
2 "Q" CAPS&6 M4X10 SCRW

And 6mph latest F55s 4 pole motors are:
Brushes for 4 pole motors are 182132.30001 for one motor
10 kph 4 pole 182001.30002 RH
10 kph 4 pole 182001.30003 LH

Sunrise say they don't sell to the public, so how do we get round this?

[Burgerman]

Sunrise are the manufacturer. Its like buying a car from ford or Nissan. Or parts for it. You go to a dealer.

Any high street dealer in your area or on the net can order via the part numbers. Don't pay VAT.

[shirley_hkg]

BM,

have you thought about fenders / mud-guards for wheels ?

On wet days, there are mud and dirt all over, my elbow, ankel and the entire chasis.

Remember. My chair is 9mph only.

[Burgerman]

Yes I need some that don't look like they came off a trailer or a powerchair.

[dam]

Are these a good choice for use on a modified wheelchair based on your design:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RIM38-145-70- ... 53f08cd14b

sorry can't get this to appear as a hyperlink.
Again apologies but I am unable to identify is the centre hole diameter is critical or not.
Cheers.

[Burgerman]

They are OK with turf tyres if you can get them on, tubeless. Need a tube with 145 tyres, and are fragile and steel. The Hegar wheels are much better.

[shirley_hkg]

A pair of GROOVE motors , inexpensive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quickie-Rhythm- ... 19f01c41f3

[funkykeyboard]

okay, I want to create a list to order everything needed to create this;



1. 1X roboteq controller HDC2450 (confusion already http://www.roboteq.com/index.php/robote ... 400-family which one as they don't exactly correspond to what is written on the picture.)

[funkykeyboard]

http://www.roboteq.com/index.php/robote ... 450-detail

It has to be that one yes?
Is there any chance of a list of the parts and links to suppliers?

[Burgerman]

HDC 2450 from Roboteq obv.

2 plastic boxes... Ebay, they contain:
1. Box 1 = RC receiver, in this case a Spektrum DSMX AR10,000 with 3 satellite receivers, located in the rear lights, and under the seat at the front.
2. Box 2 = 2x eBay SSRs that do 2 things. a) one works 12v motor brakes, and have a couple of TVS protection Diodes across them. b) the other allows the roboteq to switch the Power Relay OFF in the event of a internal mosfet failure.

Relay... Automotive 100A latched, 12v that switches 45v main power in the event that anything bad happens via a red button on the JS/pod, or via the roboteq. It also powers the permanently live 10A 48v to 12v inverter, (15mA current) which in turn powers brake and lights and the relay on/off. There's also a 120A breaker (thermal bimetallic type) and a pull loop emergency release. And a 175A fuse in the main battery loop, a 40A 100v diode and a 1k 2 watt resistor across the contactor, fuse, breaker, pull loop - to stop sparks inside the contactor on turn on, and to allow regen current to reach the battery on emergency shut off so as to not fry the roboteq in an emergency.

All this stuff was RS components, or ebay.

And also a copper varoboard connecting strip with JS pod and roboteq wires connected to it. There's a lot of wires in there!

[Burgerman]

And you need the script, and to knock up a few other bits...

12v_regulator_bottom.jpg (69.29 KiB) Viewed 17868 times

This runs 24/7, Even when OFF. It takes just 16mA idle. It dies as well if you pull the link. But no need.

BM3-ELECTRICS.jpg (89.92 KiB) Viewed 17868 times

Another part wired pic

current-sensor-parts.jpg (141.23 KiB) Viewed 17868 times

And you need a couple of cheap Chinese Allegro current sensors fitting in the motor wires. With Andersons in this case.

[Burgerman]

Soldered and crimped...

current-sensor-soldered-crimped-anderson.jpg (65.19 KiB) Viewed 17869 times

[Burgerman]

With heatshrink. 2 layers...

current-sensors.jpg (124.25 KiB) Viewed 17868 times

All together...

D8E_4069.JPG (150.78 KiB) Viewed 17868 times