WheelchairDriver

That breaker is small. But that's probably because the cables are too small, it is designed to stop them burning. So if you fit a heavier 50A breaker then you probably need thicker battery cables too.

BM, where do you get the BM3 armrest pads from?

Sunrise. Used on lots of older chairs inc an option on the F55 as "comfort" arm tops.

Thanks

BM,

When charging your lead batteries while driving your van. Are you using a Hyperion or other charger between the Anderson Connector and the batteries or do you plug in directly using the Parallel Adaptor and let the alternator charge them. It would appear to me that you would need the charger to keep the Amps below the rating of the Anderson connector?

Cheers
John

You don't need any charger.

Your vans alternator will output around 14.4V and at up to 100A as required to maintain the van, chair and anything else connected, to this CV level.

As such, you just need on the van: VAN BATTERY > 100A FUSE > 10MM2 CABLE > ANDERSON (on dash or under the front wing etc.)
And on the chair: 12V batt to 100A fuse > to 2 Anderson connectors.

And a connecting (12V parallel) cable with 2 Andersons one end, and one the other.

This way you can start the van with the chair.
Charge the chair at up to 100A CC/CV with the van alternator. No charger required. The Andersons can do 200 amps plus for short periods. The batteries will charge at over the rated 50A only for a minute or two, and then it will drop away naturally as their voltage rises. So its safe.

DeeDee wrote:
Here is a link to buy the black caps on ebay for the 4mm hex bolts used on the LiFePO4 Cells http://www.ebay.com/itm/181853345558?ss ... 1555.l2649
DeeDee

snaker wrote:My old powerchair's battery box (a Quickie v121) has a 30A circuit breaker between 2 lead acid batteries. I see 30A circuit is too small and it actually annoys me much. When I move on rough roads or drive a bit fast continuously, it frequently breaks.

I am looking for a 50A circuit breaker for replacing. Can I use any 50A circuit breaker? Or do I have to need a breaker specialized for powerchairs which is safer, solider ...? In case the breaker is not an auto-voltage 12-24V, which voltage (12V or 24V) the breaker must be for proper using in the battery box?

Could anyone suggest me links which are selling good 50A circuit breakers?

Not sure given that you are in Viet Nam, but if you were in the US, I'd suggest trying any of the major electronics distributors like Digikey, Newark, Mouser, etc... While they'd probably sell to you over there, I hate to think of what the shipping would cost / how long it would take... However you presumably have equivalent companies over there, and I'd call them...

ex-Gooserider

greybeard wrote:BM, where do you get the BM3 armrest pads from?

I haven't tried myself, and don't have details about size and so on, but I've heard that some folks have gotten replacement armrest pads from Ikea - and I think they exist in the UK... Supposedly much less expensive (What a surprise - NOT! ) than the WC manufacturers...

ex-Gooserider

http://www.pro-bolt.com/

For every type of bolt if you are building something special.

Just been looking at the Roboteq Controllers and seen them here http://www.robotshop.com/uk/roboteq-vdc-smartamps-10v-50v-robot-controller.html priced at £403. Is this a good price and can we get VAT free in the uk?

http://www.roboteq.com/index.php/robote ... 450-detail

HDC2450 is the one I am using. I ordered from the US and didnt pay vat after a fight and 20 calls...

You need to understand this. http://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pd ... dc2450.pdf all but the scripting and brushless bits. Although you will be loading scripts written by lenny and adjusting parameters in the user section here:

Script
http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-con ... Script.txt

Not trying to scare you but make you understand whats involved. If you can follow most of that then you should be ok. You will need to make own complex proffesional loom, use own mosfet and power breakers controlled by roboteq via SSDs as well as inverter and ssd for brakes etc. Gets very complex, make own joystick, calibrate and set everything up correctly and safely. Its not trivial. But its not that hard as long as you can think and read!

Burgerman wrote:http://www.roboteq.com/index.php/roboteq-products-and-services/brushed-dc-motor-controllers/hdc2450-detail

HDC2450 is the one I am using. I ordered from the US and didnt pay vat after a fight and 20 calls...
I
You need to understand this. http://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pd ... dc2450.pdf all but the scripting and brushless bits. Although you will be loading scripts written by lenny and adjusting parameters in the user section here:

Script
http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-con ... Script.txt

Not trying to scare you but make you understand whats involved. If you can follow most of that then you should be ok. You will need to make own complex proffesional loom, use own mosfet and power breakers controlled by roboteq via SSDs as well as inverter and ssd for brakes etc. Gets very complex, make own joystick, calibrate and set everything up correctly and safely. Its not trivial. But its not that hard as long as you can think and read!

Yes, I understand what you're saying and I'm getting as much info as I can to make an informed decision as to what I can or can't do. Right now, I think. It's too much for me just yet but I've been reading the manual tonight and will carry on tomorrow. I appreciate your honest, tell it as it is, opinion. If I think it's beyond I'll still go ahead with my BM2 direction and save the Roboteq/Lithium version perhaps as new info makes things a little easier. Making a new battery box, wheels, tyres, better batteries, 100a power module, much better cables, charger and terminals/connectors and programming will all make for an easier life but I'm still going to read on before I decide which way to go. So I sincerely thank you for giving me your advise, you're doing a fantastic thing here. Probably much more than you think.

Lithium is simple enough. Don't even consider lead. its not the 1900s any longer.

Burgerman wrote:Lithium is simple enough. Don't even consider lead. its not the 1900s any longer.

I thought the Lithium option was just for the larger voltage and therefore needed the Roboteq controller but now I've read more, I can keep to 24v and still use the P&G controller for now so I'll be planning around the Lithium and do my sums. Lithiums longevity makes sense of course but as the saying goes "money talks" Trouble is, there's so much stuff that can be done to make a chair better than standard, it makes deciding which way to go so much harder.

I'm using Lithium with a Pilot+ controller for over 16 months without any issues.

Steve

12V -- Roboteq only can use 12V - dont bother its inneficient and slow. But can be done.

24V -- Roboteq and ALL mobility controllers can be used on 24V and lead or LiFePO4 safely. Small speed boost on roboteq. Very small speed increase on LiFePO4 too, and huge range increases IF DONE PROPERLY. On lead this is about as far as you can sensibly go. Roboteq offer's considerably better torque and power. With less heating. Worth doing for sport. Otherwise no point.

36V -- Roboteq only, offers increase in speed by 55 percent over 24v lead. With zero loss of range and increased torque over lead. So greater efficiency.

45 / 48V -- Roboteq only, offers same range as 24v options, increased torque, and double the speed... Huge efficiency gain. ). Or use lower geared motors, for less speed but still faster than 24V, increased torque and massive range because of low gearing/Amps. Only LiFePO4 will work.

Voltage is voltage. It does not matter to the controler the source of the voltage so long as it is correct (there is typically a bit of tollerance for exact voltage). I am running "24"volt LiFePO4 on a TravelScoot which is not a factory option. Burgerman's accessment is quite correct & is based on ways to obtain the needed voltage for the different controlers.
Any normal 24 volt controler will work fine on "24" LiFePO4 except the charge indicators won't work because the are based on the falling voltages of the OEM lead bricks.
The challenge of a LiFePO4 conversion is to layout the cells within the space designed for the lead batteries.

Recently purchased a quickie rumba (with a CTE 4C24080A 24v charger) for my wife. We chose it because we can fold it up and put it in our car. I want to purchase (or construct) an off-board charging loom to connect the batteries directly to the charger so we can leave the chair in the car and bring just the batteries into the house to charge overnight. I need to know how to wire the cable and a source for the connectors. Contacted Sunrise but they claim they can't help. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Do you bring these in one at a time?

And seperate connections that you can see?

Best bet is to charge them with a 12V charger in series as its healthier for the batteries. Something like a Ctek 7A one would do it if you are not in a hurry. But your 24V charger will be fine as well as long as you know whet to connect to where?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-PIN-XLR-SOC ... 1598826584

You need one of those, above.

And an anderson connector that is the same colour as the sunrise one to connect to the existing battery loom. If that comes into the ghouse with the batteries. Probably red.

If that loom doesent, then you can just use 4 jump lead type crocodile clips. And a short bit of cable similar to what is on the charger already.

Burgerman wrote:Do you bring these in one at a time?

And seperate connections that you can see?

Best bet is to charge them with a 12V charger in series as its healthier for the batteries.

Parallel surely on 12V

Other than he wants to use the existing charger. And its 24v so needs series conection. May as well use the battery loom as they unplug from the chair.

They come in together. Two 12V batteries connected in series. Connector is black.

That doesent make it simple. But you will likely need to take off the lids, fit a charge connector on each battery. Then leave it somewhere that you can get at its connector more easily. Its quite simple to get 2 blade terminals that fit that connector. But its also easy to connect it in reverse if you are not careful.

Do you understand what it meands to charge in series or parallel?
Can you make up a couple of cables? With ring terminals that fit the battery and a connector to plug into a charger cable?

BM, aren't the batteries join in series via the grey anderson? If so, then why don't gordo buy a dual bank 12v charger, fit 2 andersons to that and when he wants to charge them, just pull the andersons apart on the battery and plug in the charger with the 2 andersons.

Steve

That will connect only one battery. He wants to use the charger he has. And any cheap 12V charger would charge in parallel if that anderson link was undone...

Don't those connectors have some kind of interlock, or have the two spades at right angles? If so, he can make his own polarized connector with two spade terminals and some epoxy even if he can't find a matching connector.

He sounds like he is after a ready to go solution though. If so it might be better to visit an auto electrician with 2 batteries and a charger.

Had to post this as I couldn't believe my luck. I'm wanting to get on with my build but the lithium batteries are so expensive I've decided to get a set of odyssey batteries for now and then by the time the batteries need changing I'll have the lithium all set up and ready to go. Anyway that's the side story, this is my reason for posting. I've just received, all shiny and brand new 2 x Odyssey PC1500DT batteries for the price of £374.23 all inclusive with free delivery. Anyway I'm gonna start working out the parts etc that I need this weekend and see if I can get this done before the summer arrives.