Where to find PGDT programmer software

[woodygb]

Depending on your answer.

You could try swapping the wires back and putting your old pod back on .

[ruffster893]

Hi there, quick question if I may...
My Dad has a couple of pride scooters, one (Pride Celebrity X) has an intermittent fault where it won't run.
I found it had a Curtis controller, and after much googling I built a lead and with a copy of 1314 I connected to it today to work through the error history. Seems to be the wigwag pot so I've increased the throttle deadband from 15% to 20% and I'm hoping that will cure it.
Anyway his other scooter has a really short time between closing the throttle and the brake coming on (he's nicknamed it 'Jerky') so I thought I'd connect that up and increase the brake delay a little and look at the decel settings - only to find that it must be a PG controller (I can't find a model label but googling suggests it is (scooter is Pride Legend XL8)). This lead plugged in and said communication error with the 1314 software so I'm wondering whether the lead might work with the PG software or do I need to start reading up on PG leads from the top?

Any help much appreciated!
Thanks, Will

[LROBBINS]

Not sure about the idea that the pod was turned 180o. Another possibility is that (1) the reversed behavior of 1 motor was caused by a software reversal, then (2) reversing the wires got it going in the right direction by making left motor turn clockwise even though the controller was telling it that it was going backwards. Reverse speed is often set lower than forward speed, and now the left motor (that thinks it's going backwards but is actually going forwards) will turn more slowly than the right one.

[woodygb]

@Rufster the Curtis lead will NOT work on the PGDT controller.

[woodygb]

Not sure about the idea that the pod was turned 180o. Another possibility is that (1) the reversed behavior of 1 motor was caused by a software reversal, then (2) reversing the wires got it going in the right direction by making left motor turn clockwise even though the controller was telling it that it was going backwards. Reverse speed is often set lower than forward speed, and now the left motor (that thinks it's going backwards but is actually going forwards) will turn more slowly than the right one.

Lenny I think that it is unlikely that the software developed a cliche....at the moment it appears to be a simple rebuild /wiring mistake compounded by various "fixes". We do not as yet have the full picture .... i.e. we do not know why the pod was changed.

[LROBBINS]

Are you sure that while fiddling with other things he didn't also fiddle with the user settings?

[woodygb]

IF he/they had some software then perhaps it's possible ... hence the question further up the thread.

What EXACTLY have you done....

[ruffster893]

@woody - thanks for the reply I'll read up on leads! Please could you point me in the best direction to get the software - thanks!

[ex-Gooserider]

Keep in mind that your scooter / chair has two different braking systems...

1. The PARKING brake - intended ONLY to keep you from rolling if the chair is already stopped. It will NOT stop a moving chair (unless it malfunctions) this is the click or clunk that you (should) hear when starting and stopping... It is a 'deadman' solenoid operated brake where the solenoid turns OFF to engage the brake - like when you stop or turn the power off.... When you try to move, the first thing the controller will do is apply power to the solenoid and release the parking brake...

2. The 'regenerative' braking system - which works only when the chair is moving... Motors are also generators, and if the chair is trying to go faster than what the controller is telling it to (when you release the throttle) the motor acts as a generator and tries to recharge the battery

On the chair with the bad pot, I'd consider changing the programming to be only a temporary fix. The RIGHT fix is to replace the wig-wag....

On the jerky chair - is the brake action from the parking brake (it shouldn't be) or the regenerative braking? If you are hearing a click as the chair jerks, it's a parking brake problem. If not it's regen. The fix for that is to look at the delay, but also the RATE at which the brake is applied - if it is t
to high then you will jerk just as if you stomped the brake pedal in your car instead of feathering it....

ex-Gooserider

Hi there, quick question if I may...
My Dad has a couple of pride scooters, one (Pride Celebrity X) has an intermittent fault where it won't run.
I found it had a Curtis controller, and after much googling I built a lead and with a copy of 1314 I connected to it today to work through the error history. Seems to be the wigwag pot so I've increased the throttle deadband from 15% to 20% and I'm hoping that will cure it.
Anyway his other scooter has a really short time between closing the throttle and the brake coming on (he's nicknamed it 'Jerky') so I thought I'd connect that up and increase the brake delay a little and look at the decel settings - only to find that it must be a PG controller (I can't find a model label but googling suggests it is (scooter is Pride Legend XL8)). This lead plugged in and said communication error with the 1314 software so I'm wondering whether the lead might work with the PG software or do I need to start reading up on PG leads from the top?

Any help much appreciated!
Thanks, Will

[somsak]

I agrre with B.M. the problems are of your own creation / mistakes ...nothing really bad ...but we need to resolve them by finding out EXACTLY what has been done.



IMO

The speed difference seems to indicate that you have the TURN - L/R channel on the FWD/REV .... hence my question about the joystick.

Question.

WHY did you change the pod?

IF you switch the motor wires back ...could you drive correctly with the POD turned 90 degrees?

I sent both side motor for checking, the coil is faulty. After re-coil the motor is back to NORMAL...
Thanks to everybody who try to help me.
Re-coil is much much cheaper than new motor. Is about 15% of new motor

[Burgerman]

You mean rewind? A bad motor winding cannot make it run in reverse.

[LROBBINS]

But it can make it turn too slowly after the polarity was corrected.

[frogsuk]

Okay, I'm new here and have a personal collection over the years of a few chairs. I have 4 of my chairs I'm having fun with at the moment,
1. Wheeltech Enigma With a VR2 that seems to be dead. No lights on but 25.6 volts to the joystick printed circuit 3 pin plug
2. Invacare Spectra XTR2 with lift etc and a ACS 24 joystick that I am doing major alterations to the chassis (I have spare chassis as well). I'm trying to lower the seat base from 49cm to 35cm but have the lift to bring me back up to normal Hight. Why? I bought myself a Sirus Qubo Switch drive from Fiat and due to my hight, I have to duck to see through the the windscreen so I have to go low and am getting there but need to alter the parameters of the controls so handling is better.
3. Invacare Harrier plus I want to change the pedestrian controlled to user controlled using an ACS 24 controlerjoystick instead of the basic cr*p read one.
4. Invacare Storm 3 that is in snail mode again with an ACS controlerjoystick that I want to tweak so I can go up the woods in the village at the same 4mph as the Wheeltech instead of about 2mph.
I'm more than capable of making the cable for the R-Net but am having a real problem trying to get the R-Net software. I have a XP Panasonic Toughbook that I use for other vehicle related and programming software butI am getting pretty desperate now as I really need to alter the parameters of the Sectra as the only other chair I can drive from -"(- headrest) is the Wheeltech that is currently as mentioned above, dead
Please help
PS based is south west Wales, someone's got to be!

[Burgerman]

R-net cable wont help. You need a dongle to unlock it.

[woodygb]

ACS DYNAMIC DX-REM24SD ? and VR2 both have homebrew programming solutions.

R-Net requires an expensive DONGLE ...ask on the Forum for someone near you ..I think I saw a very recent post mentioning Bristol .



Found it ...viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6290&p=89152#p89162

The USERNAME location say's in Bristol...memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1923

[frogsuk]

Thank you for the quick response! I'll try and make contact shortly

[woodygb]

With your VR2 you could try cleaning the maze/labyrinth under the ON/OFF button ... this will entail taking the pod apart, not a difficult task.

Use a rubber / erasure or GENTLY rub with a the scourer pad side of a washing up sponge.

[woodygb]

Pic that may help if you take the pod apart ...it shows the location of a black locking oval pin that should be depressed to allow the board to slide out to gain access to the various activation pads on the reverse side.

[rover220]

4. Invacare Storm 3 that is in snail mode again with an ACS controlerjoystick that I want to tweak so I can go up the woods in the village at the same 4mph as the Wheeltech instead of about 2mph.
I'm more than capable of making the cable for the R-Net but am having a real problem trying to get the R-Net software. I have a XP Panasonic Toughbook that I use for other vehicle related and programming software butI am getting pretty desperate now as I really need to alter the parameters of the Sectra as the only other chair I can drive from -"(- headrest) is the Wheeltech that is currently as mentioned above, dead
Please help
PS based is south west Wales, someone's got to be!

likely the magnet switch that controls the slow speed switch has moved causing that problem. join the 2 purple wires coming from the CLAM to permanently disable this issue.

[frogsuk]

4. Invacare Storm 3 that is in snail mode again with an ACS controlerjoystick that I want to tweak so I can go up the woods in the village at the same 4mph as the Wheeltech instead of about 2mph.
I'm more than capable of making the cable for the R-Net but am having a real problem trying to get the R-Net software. I have a XP Panasonic Toughbook that I use for other vehicle related and programming software butI am getting pretty desperate now as I really need to alter the parameters of the Sectra as the only other chair I can drive from -"(- headrest) is the Wheeltech that is currently as mentioned above, dead
Please help
PS based is south west Wales, someone's got to be!

likely the magnet switch that controls the slow speed switch has moved causing that problem. join the 2 purple wires coming from the CLAM to permanently disable this issue.

That worked! Thanks

[frogsuk]

Pic that may help if you take the pod apart ...it shows the location of a black locking oval pin that should be depressed to allow the board to slide out to gain access to the various activation pads on the reverse side.

VR2 POD maze.jpg

Thanks. Right got it removed with help from your info and this is it:




All cleaned but still no life I've looked at the PCB but can see now blown parts either.

You mention "Home brew software" Any chance of pointing me in the right direction for this please?

Thank you again

[Burgerman]

You must clean the oxidized metal that the rubber presses against with a scotch bright cloth or similar.

[woodygb]

.

[woodygb]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5523

[steves1977uk]

Don't think it's possible to make a serial cable since the original PGDT one has a custom made PCB inside the DB9 plug. An USB cable is the easiest option nowadays.

Steve

[ex-Gooserider]

You can't do a standard serial cable to connect to the P&G stuff, as the protocols are different... The serial cable on a PC uses RS-232 which is (among other details) a two wire protocol, with separate TX and RX wires... The P&G stuff uses a single wire protocol with all the signals on one wire. The 'official' P&G programming cable had a custom board in it that did the protocol conversion.

This board was the subject of some reverse engineering effort, and Woody (among others) figured out that it was actually possible to produce the P&G signals directly with a properly modified USB-Serial cable - see the thread he referenced for details....

ex-Gooserider

[woodygb]

yes read the articles tried to sign up 2 months ago thru that site did not approve my request can't download anything,

Would someone be willing to share their username/password ?

Found nothing about straight to serial connector just usb .

Have you checked your personnel messages?

[Squanto]

I have been a Lurker on here for a year or so, and finally bit the bullet and signed up!

I am building a modified chair like the BM3 but as Quicie F55 are like Rockin Horse Teeth, I have gone for a Kymco K-Active as my Base model - cheap too when new and still being made, chassis is almost identical to F55

Now I have several chairs all running on Penny & Giles controllers mostly VSI & VR2 which I would like to program.

Where can I get the Programming software preferably OEM version ???

I have got many FTDI & Chinese Serial to USB leads (from Arduino and model helicopter Gyros)

Many Thanks

Mark Squance
Plymouth, England.

[elryko1992]

Check your PM Squanto.

[Squanto]

I have gotten a copy of PG Drives Technology Mobility PC Programmer 14.4.3 OEM Version

I have it here if you want a copy of it please PM me

Many Thanks
Mark Squance

I have been a Lurker on here for a year or so, and finally bit the bullet and signed up!

I am building a modified chair like the BM3 but as Quicie F55 are like Rockin Horse Teeth, I have gone for a Kymco K-Active as my Base model - cheap too when new and still being made, chassis is almost identical to F55

Now I have several chairs all running on Penny & Giles controllers mostly VSI & VR2 which I would like to program.

Where can I get the Programming software preferably OEM version ???

I have got many FTDI & Chinese Serial to USB leads (from Arduino and model helicopter Gyros)

Many Thanks

Mark Squance
Plymouth, England.