somsak wrote:before this, the motor was over heat.. after cooling down this problem happened.. then I sent motor for repair and no more overheat but still have rotation problem.. Problem still unsolve after replacing a new joy stick.
woodygb wrote:somsak wrote:before this, the motor was over heat.. after cooling down this problem happened.. then I sent motor for repair and no more overheat but still have rotation problem.. Problem still unsolve after replacing a new joy stick.
You had the rotation problem immediately after the motor was replaced?
You then replaced the joystick in an attempt to solve the motor rotation problem?
...Weird! ...that's a new one on me!Rotation problem after motor cooling down before repair
woodygb wrote:...Weird! ...that's a new one on me!Rotation problem after motor cooling down before repair
I suppose it's possible that the magnets have become demagnetised and then remagnetised by the motor overheating.
woodygb wrote:TELL US EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED ...WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND IN THE ORDER YOU DID IT.
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woodygb wrote:woodygb wrote:TELL US EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED ...WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND IN THE ORDER YOU DID IT.
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Please answer the above ...also include any other information ... e.g. has ANYONE else "looked" at your chair or "helped" ... have you taken the pod apart etc etc.
This my full story.
yes I attempt to solve by replace joystick.
woodygb wrote:This my full story.
Not quite....yes I attempt to solve by replace joystick.
Just the "joystick" or the pod?
Burgerman wrote:For the motor to run the wrong way you must have either reconnected it polarity reversed. Or assembled the gearbox incorrectly in some way.
For the motor to now get hot it must now be overloaded or hard to rotate. So brake not reconnected, or failed and not releasing, or gearbox assembled incorrectly.
Lenny I think that it is unlikely that the software developed a cliche....at the moment it appears to be a simple rebuild /wiring mistake compounded by various "fixes". We do not as yet have the full picture .... i.e. we do not know why the pod was changed.LROBBINS wrote:Not sure about the idea that the pod was turned 180o. Another possibility is that (1) the reversed behavior of 1 motor was caused by a software reversal, then (2) reversing the wires got it going in the right direction by making left motor turn clockwise even though the controller was telling it that it was going backwards. Reverse speed is often set lower than forward speed, and now the left motor (that thinks it's going backwards but is actually going forwards) will turn more slowly than the right one.
ruffster893 wrote:Hi there, quick question if I may...
My Dad has a couple of pride scooters, one (Pride Celebrity X) has an intermittent fault where it won't run.
I found it had a Curtis controller, and after much googling I built a lead and with a copy of 1314 I connected to it today to work through the error history. Seems to be the wigwag pot so I've increased the throttle deadband from 15% to 20% and I'm hoping that will cure it.
Anyway his other scooter has a really short time between closing the throttle and the brake coming on (he's nicknamed it 'Jerky') so I thought I'd connect that up and increase the brake delay a little and look at the decel settings - only to find that it must be a PG controller (I can't find a model label but googling suggests it is (scooter is Pride Legend XL8)). This lead plugged in and said communication error with the 1314 software so I'm wondering whether the lead might work with the PG software or do I need to start reading up on PG leads from the top?
Any help much appreciated!
Thanks, Will
woodygb wrote:I agrre with B.M. the problems are of your own creation / mistakes ...nothing really bad ...but we need to resolve them by finding out EXACTLY what has been done.
IMO
The speed difference seems to indicate that you have the TURN - L/R channel on the FWD/REV .... hence my question about the joystick.
Question.
WHY did you change the pod?
IF you switch the motor wires back ...could you drive correctly with the POD turned 90 degrees?
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