Seems to me that all you need do is use a switch, brake switch, inertia switch, link to fuel injection to detect low injector pulsewidth etc to activate alternator at any time you are decelerating.
LEAVE ignition light wire alone...
Connect alternator to battery via heavy wire wound resistor with a value that only allows say 2 amps max to flow if battery is 11.2v (dead) when charging. /.../ When braking etc, bypass the resistor with a solid link via a DC to DC solid state relay.
And 45psi in the tyres, 0-20 oil, lower car, oil rather than grease in wheel bearings and CV joints, tape over all joints, and add some two stroke oil to the fuel tank. That gives smoother more complete combustion, and makes it run better too.
51psi in the (LRR) tyres for the past year with no issues. (Corners much better with harder tyres too.) I changed the gear oil and put some Molyslip in - that was dead easy, cheap and made an immediate, obvious reduction in rolling resistance. Oil in bearings/CV joint? Won't it fall out/wash out? I've heard of folks using synthetic grease in wheel bearings. Two stroke oil in fuel...? Really? That makes me a bit nervous - those 30,000 psi injection pumps are expensive and sensitive.
The improvement could, I suppose, have been entirely due to having new oil in there, although VW don't specify any replacement interval for the gear oil. They claim that it can be left in there forever. (They're probably lying, to make it look like their cars need less maintenance than they actually do, but that's what they say.) I used the latest version of the recommended VW gear oil.
was told that 20 amps too high and can make the Gel in there melt to water and wont gel up again - battery life will suffer alot - if that happenes - my wheelchair tech told me - should be fine but cant say if a rush of incoming current etc, can or may damage the electronics - even though its not being charged from chairs wiring etc, - the electronics still play a part or get affected - he will be at my place tomorrow i ask again
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