WheelchairDriver

Better pics

Seat isnt bolted on, just loose. Wires all over the place. But you get the idea. Waiting for seat, and need to build a footplate. Then ready to go.

http://zoomability.com/zoom/ this gets 25 miles with just 950 watt hours. Mine isnt as efficient, as its not brushless. But I have 3200 watt hours... So should get 50 to 60 miles on a smooth pavement.

Seat plate on temporarily.

You can see the 100A PG power module here. The one I fitted a fan thermostat switch inside. This will be
fan cooled above 45 degrees C.

iI always get the flat seat plate powder coated too. Leaving it super glossy. Cushion (Jay2) is held in place via VELCRO. This seat plate will have 2x 2 inch wide velcro strips added. But first we need to wait for my car seat back to arrive...


Battery sides will be covered in 1mm black plastic sheet, slid into the base to hide the cells and wiring. You will only see the blue ones at the front.

LED 10 WATT headlamps (4x 25mm Diameter to be added) and they are as good as a car headlight, and really small!

Very nice -

My cooling fan works, but its a bit noisy. Doesent like 24V... What resistor would I need to slow it to a sensible rate... Takes .2A at 12V.

or just get a quiet fan - I changed out my fans in my power amps when i got it - too noisy for me - i dont like to hear anything when listening to music or movies - classical etc, -

i found the same fan at digitech - same size very quiet but moved just about the same CFM as the other fan - so i changed it and and cant hear it any more - which ever way is easier i guess for you -

60 ohm, 5 W should do it - but you'll be dissipating ca. 2.5W as heat (but only when the fan is running). 68 ohm is, I think, the closest standard value. Ciao, Lenny

Thanks, must have one somewhere. I have a bunch of 5 and 10 watt resistors.

Expresso, you missed that its on 24V!

Thanks, must have one somewhere. I have a bunch of 5 and 10 watt resistors.

Expresso, you missed that its on 24V! Sounds like a vacuum cleaner!

You will be wasting most of the light output of the LED's if you don't use the same LED color as the lenses - I.e red ones w/ red lenses and yellow ones w/ yellow lenses... The lenses are filters and BLOCK any light that isn't their color, so all that gets through is the part of the LED output that matches the lens, and whatever extra from the lens not being a 'perfect' filter....

If you put red LED's behind a yellow lens you will get dim light at best, and might not even be able to see it at worst....

White LED's will be brighter since they have SOME yellow light output, but really you want either Yellow LED's or to change the lenses to red (if possible)

Unless your local laws don't allow it (where do any light rules on blinking lights say "wheelchair" officer?) I'd make the yellow lights into blinkers, ideally alternating - MUCH more noticeable than just adding more steady red, and that is your main objective....

Burgerman wrote:Convert rear light to LED

Red LEDs in the red, white ones in the turn lights... I have ordered some red ones for those too. Because I have no need of turn signals. They will light up red!

So Projector lamps for the front. And this F55 one for the rear (because I like it) but turned to LED. I may not fit it. Depends on the seat... Might use red projector LEDs on the rear instead. Right now its taking 3 watts at 16 volts... So the 3kwh battery would run it for 44 and a half days.

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Trans MOSFET N-CH 55V 85A 3-Pin(3+Tab) TO-220AB

Does it help?

Where is the sense resistor?

That is not a part number, just a mechanical electrical spec that could apply to a huge number of parts... You need the actual part number that SHOULD be screened on the front (non-tab) side of the part. (note that while each pair should have the same number, different pairs may have different part numbers and be different parts)

The given spec says it's an N-channel part, rated for 55V max Drain / source voltage, and 85A current, in a TO-220AB physical package (defines the size and shape of the part, pin spacing, etc. but not necessarily the pin assignments)

You need the actual part numbers, and then use those to look up the manufacturer data sheets (which WILL be on-line)

ex-Gooserider

steves1977uk wrote:Where would I find the MOSFET type? on the top side of it?

Steve

On the face of the part (the non-tab side) you should see a part number and a manufacturer name or logo, and probably a date code and possibly other numbers.... Note some manufacturers that are trying to hide their designs will paint over the numbers or sand them off, in which case you are sort of screwed.... All that can be done then is to try and characterize the part (takes a lot of added / more sophisticated gear) and attempt to find a data-sheet description that matches.....

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Thanks, must have one somewhere. I have a bunch of 5 and 10 watt resistors.

Expresso, you missed that its on 24V! Sounds like a vacuum cleaner!

Feed it a PWM signal (see 555 timer circuits....) or look in the mfg listings for the same form-factor and CFM rating in a 24V rating...

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Thanks, must have one somewhere. I have a bunch of 5 and 10 watt resistors.

Expresso, you missed that its on 24V! Sounds like a vacuum cleaner!

ok i dont know much - but just try to get the same type - volt and just quiet version with same CFM - -http://www.digikey.com/

i am sure they have it in 24V also - they have everything

At the risk of looking a total maroon (to quote Bugs Bunny), what about ditching the fan and having heat sinks made? They could stick out the side just beneath the seat (ahead of the frame) and look like you've got a motorbike engine in there. Of course, you'd have to go full speed at all times to generate sufficient airflow, but that doesn't sound like it would be a problem, does it?

I used to have a heat sink. But if you look inside the mosfets do not contact the case directly and its the motor connections and cables that are acting directly as the thing that transfers the heat. As I have it now cool air blows around the case from the seat side and out along all four edges. The closest edge to the fan (hole) is the one were the cables are. It blows air pretty well over this connector side and over the wires. There's no good way to cool it with a heat sink.

Look at the pics of it in bits and you will see the heat path. The mosfets only sit against foam rubber and can get much hotter than the case. The heat of the board/mosfets really loses most of its heat via the large metal to metal flat faces that are the motor and input power connectors. If you feel these when its hot, those are the hottest parts by miles. I have considered drilling holes top and bottom... Makes the roboteq with its 32 output devices bolted solidly to an outer case heat sink look very good!

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5380&start=200

Burgerman wrote:There's no good way to cool it with a heat sink.

Damn. That would have looked very cool.

Another problem with putting a heatsink on that controller is that the tabs on those MOSFETs are not isolated so you'd need to use insulating mica sheets and nylon washers which make the heatsink much less effective.

Still awaiting a seat back... Be here 26th or soon after.
And footplate.
Wiring done, brake release fitted, seat plate on...

This is just a bump... So I dont forget to update it.

Looking good BM Wish I could use my hands to build stuff.

Steve

First class build.

:mrgreen: Wish I could use my hands to build stuff.

You can use others hands as I mostly have to do. You learn to instruct!

Lights. Very hard to photograph. The yellow ones will be red LED when they arrive. So all will be red.

They are lots brighter than this seems to show. Sunglasses required!

Evening, room lights...


Daylight...

Love it- very nice -

Has Santa been with your new Cobra Seat.

Not yet... Waiting. But THEY get it on the26th, so I get it 2days later...

Burgerman wrote:Lights. Very hard to photograph. The yellow ones will be red LED when they arrive. So all will be red.

They are lots brighter than this seems to show. Sunglasses required!

Evening, room lights...

810_1344.JPG

Daylight...

810_1342.JPG

[quote="Burgerman"]Lights. Very hard to photograph. The yellow ones will be red LED when they arrive. So all will be red.

It's looking great, can you post a link to where you got the led bulbs from or did you have to replace the whole fitting? Either way can you do a link please? Also you added a 45 degree thermal switch for the fan, could you show us exactly where and how you fitted the switch and which fan you used as I'd like to do the same to mine
Thanks John

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361442455527? ... EBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380891608375? ... EBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121215117549? ... EBIDX%3AIT

some use different! Take a look first.

Thermal switch was out of my pile of bits. Came from an old power supply. http://www.renge-components.com/photo/p ... mostat.jpg Like this. 40C woulds be better.

Burgerman wrote:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361442455527?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380891608375? ... EBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121215117549? ... EBIDX%3AIT

some use different! Take a look first.

Thermal switch was out of my pile of bits. Came from an old power supply. http://www.renge-components.com/photo/p ... mostat.jpg Like this. 40C woulds be better.

That's great, thanks and those bulbs just go in as a direct replacement? And how do you attach the thermal switch to the PM and then to the fan?

Cheers John

The chip is fixed with epoxy inside the case, the wires go in series with the computer fan. And a resistor to give approx 12V and connected permanantly to the 24V supply.

Info from my duff 80 amp controller fets

IRF100N

IR037T

2Q 8K

Data Sheet
http://www.irf.com/part/_/A~PB-IRF1010N

hopefully this will help with Irvings request.

Jim