Programming cable specifically for S-Drive controllers

[Sam L]

Aha! Stripping the motor is indeed on the todo list for this coming weekend. We replaced both brushes and screw caps that hold them in last week after finding one of the springs was broken. That seemed promising find, so sad to see it didn't remedy.
Got to experience runaway when we swapped in the 51270.06 controller before. Didn't do it after first couple of tries, but made me think twice about using before we figured out a backup, emergency brake. Made me gun-shy to try other controllers, but here we are. :-)

[JonG]

Hi

I'm new to the group so hope I'm not asking too much here!

Just got a Drive Neo 8 c/w S-Drive controller.

The reversing sounder is OTT but I'm guessing this might be integral with the drive unit. The horn is at the front but reversing beeps are from the back but not a sign of a sounder.

So

1) Can anyone confirm my suspicion the sounder is integrated it would be helpful, even if the solution is low tech bluetak over the sounder. The other day someone stopped to ask my wife if she was OK as they mistook the reversing beeper for a distress alarm! :-( Not good!

2) As an electronics engineer it would be great to have an S-Drive manual so I know what's going on and if there is software that would be great too, as sure it's only a matter of time before I need to diagnose and fix the drive! I've fixed a number of scooters in the past for other people but it's much harder going without techno info on them!

Thanks

Jon

[woodygb]

S-Drive Manual on page2

https://en.q-tronic.nl/downloads/

The audible alarm will be EXTERNAL to the S-Drive ..possibly connected to pin 3 or 4


EDIT ..Pin 3

[woodygb]

@ JonG ..You have mail....

Can you please update your profile with an approximate location.

[JonG]

I've found the beeping beeper!

Sneaky! It's heatshrunk onto a cable loom bunched with other looms.

I've tried to silence it with blutak and foam packing but still too loud. As a last resort I'll snip the cable but I may try a few other things first, as I would prefer to keep it operating at a sensible level!

Thanks

Jon

[ex-Gooserider]

Since you're an EE, I assume it would be no problem to see what the voltage going to the beeper is, and either substituting a less obnoxious one, or possibly adding a resistor in series with it so that it isn't getting as much voltage to drive the noise...

ex-Gooserider

[darky]

Hi guys, i tried to read as much i can find before to post, but i still have some question

First of all, i have a "D51270.06 45A" controller in a scooter, and i found that i'll have to use an FTDI usb, but just the last month i've received a USB TO TTL using the ch340e chip,
#1 question: Do you think it works at the same way as the FTDI?
#2 question: Which wiring diagram I have to use?
#3 question: Can i connect the wiring cable directly to the "3 INPUT PIN" chargin port WITHOUT HAVE TO touch the 14 PIN Molex port?

If you can send me the things i'll need it would be great, thanks in meantime!

[woodygb]

#1 question: Do you think it works at the same way as the FTDI? ..Maybe... You will have to try and see
#2 question: Which wiring diagram I have to use? ... Try the latest pic with and without a resistor.
#3 question:Can i connect the wiring cable directly to the "3 INPUT PIN" charging port WITHOUT HAVE TO touch the 14 PIN ( 4 pin ) Molex port? Yes ...Most mobility scooters are wired up to allow this.

[darky]

Thank you Woody for the fast reply!
Unfortunately i don't have the possibility to get the 1N4148, can something dangerous happen if i don't use it?
To be sure, which is the latest wiring diagram?
Anyway in my third question i meant exactly the bigger molex connector of 14 PIN, because i saw a video where he has connected together the 5-7 pins, so i don't have to do it if i can turn on the scooter normally, right?

[woodygb]

Thank you Woody for the fast reply!
Unfortunately i don't have the possibility to get the 1N4148, can something dangerous happen if i don't use it?
To be sure, which is the latest wiring diagram?
Anyway in my third question i meant exactly the bigger molex connector of 14 PIN, because i saw a video where he has connected together the 5-7 pins, so i don't have to do it if i can turn on the scooter normally, right?

Nothing bad should happen if you do not use a diode.

Connecting pins 5 and 7 turns ON the controller , you would only do this if the controller was out of the scooter and on the bench AND you would then program via the 4 pin molex.... if however your programming the controller in situ , then you simply turn the scooter ON via the key and should be able to program via the charging socket.

[woodygb]

Note that there maybe many TTL- USB programming solutions BUT there are so many different makes , models and chipsets that it is impossible to say which ones would work , hence my recommendation of a make ( FTDI ) and model ( TTL-232R-3V3 ) that is identifiable & available that gives consistent results.

E.G. ...Which of these CH340 USB-TTL Adapters would work ... if any ?

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=ch340+ttl&t=c ... &ia=images

OR Perhaps the CP2102

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=cp2102+ttl+us ... &ia=images

OR the Prolific chipset...

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=PROLIFIC++ttl ... &ia=images

[woodygb]

To be sure, which is the latest wiring diagram?

[woodygb]

If the controller is wired up and in situ use the scooters ON/OFF Key .
OR
If the controller is on the bench use an ON/OFF link .... For ON connect between pins 5 & 7 ..

[darky]

Thank you very much for all the resources!
Yeah, I've just to try and see and hope it will work, because that beep at EVERY reverse has became really unbearable.

I search in my box of spare components that i desoldered from some dead hardware and i found this one: http://puu.sh/GFGIx/fbcc6ff0ac.jpg do you think it's a diode that can be used as replacement of the 1N4148?

I also found a black 1N4007 and 1N400, is it better to use of of these two? or it's better to not use anything if not exactly the one in the diagram wiring?

Sorry but it's just that i'm a little bit scared cause the Scooter is not mine but of my sister, and she use it almost everyday so i can't risk to damage it

[woodygb]

Any diode should be fine.

You might find it easier to simply disconnect the beeper ( cut one wire that goes to it ) ...this beeper is EXTERNAL and may be found inside the wiring loom.

I would remove the seat and covers ..Jack up the rear of the scooter ..put it in reverse and try and locate it's position.

[darky]

Yeah to cut the beeper was the first i tought, but in this way i would have lost the diagnostic/warning part of it.

About the rest, i did all the wiring but something doesn't want to work... it seems all conneted fine but it stay on COMMS INACTIVE.
I also did the looptest that went fine

is it right in this order? http://puu.sh/GG3kw/071591bb3c.jpg
C = TX+RX (i think this is the only sure one)
but of the other two input, is the 1 or 2 the negative one?

i'm using a 54k resistor it's ok? (if i remove it, when i connect the usb converter windows get an error driver)

[Burgerman]

Blutac. Its a great silencer.

[darky]

Blutac. Its a great silencer.

And it definitely doesn't require any driver

[woodygb]

Yeah to cut the beeper was the first i tought, but in this way i would have lost the diagnostic/warning part of it.

About the rest, i did all the wiring but something doesn't want to work... it seems all conneted fine but it stay on COMMS INACTIVE.
I also did the looptest that went fine

is it right in this order? http://puu.sh/GG3kw/071591bb3c.jpg
C = TX+RX (i think this is the only sure one)
but of the other two input, is the 1 or 2 the negative one?

i'm using a 54k resistor it's ok? (if i remove it, when i connect the usb converter windows get an error driver)

"is it right in this order?" NO


1/ Positive DO NOT USE
2/ Negative or GND
3/ Inhibit or Programming Data ( TX and RX )

A 54K resistor could work.

Connections are marked on the drawing.

download/file.php?id=14255&mode=view

[darky]

Tried different ways, as it kept giving me COMM INACTIVE i tried to change the input from 1 to 2 in chargin port but that didn't resolved.
I've also tried to remove the Diode/Resistance, tried obviously changing COM port, update Drivers but still nothing.
My last doubt is it can be the CH340G chip.. Now i've ordered a FTDI one, i don't think i can do much more at this moment.

[steves1977uk]

COM1 & COM2 are usually reserved for motherboard Serial ports if there is any onboard. USB based Serial ports start from COM3 upwards, so check in device manager which COM port is listed and set it to the same one in the programming software.

Steve

[darky]

Hi @steves1977uk, In device manager it was saying COM5, and I was pretty sure it was correct because in the programming software when I trying to select other port's number each time was giving me "unable to connect to serial port", thing that didn't happen if I tried to select the COM5.

[woodygb]

Darky ...Could you please alter your profile to give in an approx location.

[darky]

Darky ...Could you please alter your profile to give in an approx location.

[LROBBINS]

Dove sei in Italia? Io vivo nel comune di Monteroni d'Arbia (SI).

[darky]

We ciao, che bello vedere ogni tanto qualche italiano in questi fiumi di (disponibilissimi) inglesi ecc io comunque sono di Verona

[LROBBINS]

Ciao. Purtroppo un po' lontano da Siena. Sono americano, ma vivo in Italia da più di 23 anni.

[darky]

Eh si, da Siena a Verona è una bella lunga passeggiata. Caspita 23 anni, dev'esserti davvero piaciuta l'italia, d'altronde come darti torto, qui ti togli un bel po di soddisfazioni

[Burgerman]

Can I get anchovies on mine?

[darky]

Can I get anchovies on mine?

Sure, you are the admin