First 3D printer

[Heygnow]

Just ordered m first 3d printer. Have been wanting one for a while and this seems to have the build footprint and price I think I might need.

Looking to build parts (handles, knobs and mounts for electronic projects).

I have never even touched one before. Any suggestions for a newbie are sincerely appreciated.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860

[Burgerman]

I know nothing. But will be doing similar sometime this year so interested...

[expresso]

nice - the price isnt bad - - keep us posted as you use it etc, - this is interesting - not sure what i can do with it - i would have to learn the software end of it also - what does it use - is the software included ?

[terry2]

That's a nice starter printer. Will you be using Repetier with Repetier host?

I'm saving for the best one and it's British https://bigbox-3d.com/

I've mode mine to take a E3D V6 and a new extruder so I can print Flexi filament.

[Burgerman]

Fine detail is good. But the thing stopping me is this. Software... I learned some autocad once. What a complete bitch that is. Dont want to go there! What is easy, intuitive, and will work with this printer?

[terry2]

Fine detail is good. But the thing stopping me is this. Software... I learned some autocad once. What a complete bitch that is. Dont want to go there! What is easy, intuitive, and will work with this printer?

The print posted was done on a XYZ Duo 2. I wouldn't buy one again.

As for software you can use freecad http://www.freecadweb.org/ Cubify Invent is good and cheap.
Most 3D printers work with STL files
https://www.thingiverse.com/ have a lot of things ready to print.

You will need a slicer. There are free ones but the best is Simplify3D. You have to pay for that.
The worst and most impotent part is the bed levelling. The Big Box has auto level which is a big plus.

If your going to use ABS\Nylon filament you will need a heated bed.

If you know what printer you want then post and I will have a look at it.

[Burgerman]

You actually pay for software? Torents...

OK will download those and take a look. The bigbox one looks pretty good to me but I dont know what I am talking about

[Williamclark77]

Patience. It'll take a while to learn what your printer likes. All recommended settings such as the feed speeds, temperatures, extrusion multiplier, layer height, extrusion width, etc are just that, recommendations and will have to be fine tuned by you to get good results. I do a good bit of 3d printing and have to tweak mine all the time.

PLA is simple. However, it is hard, brittle, and doesn't flex much. ABS is much better and gives prints that are more usable. It can be a pita to work with though. Everywhere says use cooling fans. I have no luck with them. The fans that cool the prints I mean. Having your printer near an air conditioner vent can cause issues too.

The best way I've found to get prints to stick is heated bed, thoroughly clean with acetone (while it's cold. Acetone doesn't work if it's hot), and hit the bed with a spritz of Aqua Net hairspray right before it begins printing.

I use Simplify3d. Fairly complicated but has the settings needed to get the best results.

Good luck and do loads of research on forums!

[terry2]

You actually pay for software? Torents...

OK will download those and take a look. The bigbox one looks pretty good to me but I dont know what I am talking about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkVk8c8XoU

If you got for the Big Box don't get the kit unless you love putting things together

If\when you know what size bed you need let us know and I will name some.

[terry2]

I should of said that from the time of the video it's been updated.
here is the pre-release Big Box unpacking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JRyAiMcTso

You can get a starter printer for £170 https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/s ... rinter-kit

[Burgerman]

Buy cheap. Pay twice.
Buy what you really want/need, buy once. Much cheaper.

Do that with everything in life and you end up a lot better off and with all the best tools. But I downloaded the software and it looks beyond me...

[terry2]

Buy cheap. Pay twice.
Buy what you really want/need, buy once. Much cheaper.

Do that with everything in life and you end up a lot better off and with all the best tools. But I downloaded the software and it looks beyond me...

I feel the same about doing a battery upgrade

[ex-Gooserider]

No hands on, but we probably have more 3-D printers at the Asylum than 2-D printers - when this was pointed out, the immediate suggestion was to print out more 2-D printers....

No specific suggestions, but from what I've observed,

1. People seem to do better with enclosed beds - this gives better control over the entire process....

2. It can be useful to have multiple extruders - among other things this lets you print both the part material and a 'support matrix' that one can later remove. This makes it possible to print parts like an 'umbrella' where all the bits don't connect together until the entire print is done...

3. At least one member has a water cooled extruder nozzle - again process control is key

4. There are a lot of different printer technologies that each use different methods to lay out the material, with the filament printers possibly being among the more versatile, but there are also the UV resin units, glue mixed with powder like the Z-corp printers which can do amazingly detailed stuff including things with moving parts that are printed in one piece, and still move (think an adjustable wrench that adjusts!) I've seen one that prints ink onto paper, then cuts out the layer and bonds it to the print. One that is particularly cool is the 'Mark Forge' that has the ability to embed carbon fiber filaments into the prints as it is printing them. Gives fantastically strong and light parts, as long as you align the part stress in the right direction (High strength in the plane of the layers, but the layers can separate)

It is necessary to figure out what sort of prints you want to make, and then pick a tech that will produce them - look at required strength, durability, weather resistance, etc....

ex-Gooserider

[david]

Fine detail is good. But the thing stopping me is this. Software... I learned some autocad once. What a complete bitch that is. Dont want to go there! What is easy, intuitive, and will work with this printer?

I am using 123D Design from Autodesk (http://www.123dapp.com/design); it's free (as in beer) and simple. Once you have designed your object, you need to 'slice it', that's the file the printer will need. I am using Cura, it's free (as in speech) and is quite popular.
To get started with 123D Design, just watch tutorial videos on YouTube.

--David

[Burgerman]

Downloaded. Doesent look mucvh easier! Will watch tutorials...

[terry2]

Downloaded. Doesent look mucvh easier! Will watch tutorials...

Good learning videos for Cubify invent here https://www.youtube.com/user/CubifyFan/ ... shelf_id=1

[Heygnow]

After much thought, videos and posts here. I have refused delivery and sent the printer back to the seller.

A self-leveling bed would be a must for myself.

[Irving]

Choosing a 3D printer is a mine field. I've been using an ultimaker 2+ in the lab and its pretty good, but not perfect. Limited to 1 extruder and as standard doesn't get hot enough to do nylon or carbon fibre (tho it could do some brands of said filaments). for what I need PLA/ABS aren't up to the job, I need a hi-tensile nylon (planetary gear trains).

So my must have list:
- heated & self levelling bed
- 200mm x * 150mm y * 150mm z print volume (z (height) requirement is negotiable)
- enclosed printing space for temperature (and noise) control
- dual head/dual feed (can get triples now on some 3D printers)
- higher temperature (260 - 300degC) extruder capability for nylon
- exchangeable/replaceable nozzles in at least 3 sizes
- open software

CEL Robox 3D looks good but needs extruder upgrade which just tips it over my 1000GBP budget. More research to be done!

[terry2]

Choosing a 3D printer is a mine field. I've been using an ultimaker 2+ in the lab and its pretty good, but not perfect. Limited to 1 extruder and as standard doesn't get hot enough to do nylon or carbon fibre (tho it could do some brands of said filaments). for what I need PLA/ABS aren't up to the job, I need a hi-tensile nylon (planetary gear trains).

So my must have list:
- heated & self levelling bed
- 200mm x * 150mm y * 150mm z print volume (z (height) requirement is negotiable)
- enclosed printing space for temperature (and noise) control
- dual head/dual feed (can get triples now on some 3D printers)
- higher temperature (260 - 300degC) extruder capability for nylon
- exchangeable/replaceable nozzles in at least 3 sizes
- open software

CEL Robox 3D looks good but needs extruder upgrade which just tips it over my 1000GBP budget. More research to be done!

Looks like people are using nylon with your printer https://ultimaker.com/en/community/1610 ... ltimaker-2

Have a look at https://bigbox-3d.com/ it can go to 400c

[Irving]

...Looks like people are using nylon with your printer https://ultimaker.com/en/community/1610 ... ltimaker-2

Have a look at https://bigbox-3d.com/ it can go to 400c

Terry, thanks for that. I was aware some people had used nylon with the Ultimaker but understood it to be the lower-end stuff as the high-strength ones needed a higher temp. Seems I was mistaken.

The bigbox looks really interesting though I need ready assembled and tested and right now they can't deliver that with the spec I want. But worth watching as its going to be a couple of months before I'm ready for it and price seems competitive on a first glance. it gets some good but not rave reviews.

[steves1977uk]

Faster ones are coming... https://techcrunch.com/2017/11/28/mits- ... up-to-10x/

Steve

[Burgerman]

Speed and also accuracy, strength of parts, difficulty in programming or designing, noise, power consumption, expense of materials, and what to use it for!

[Scout]

Speed and also accuracy, strength of parts, difficulty in programming or designing, noise, power consumption, expense of materials, and what to use it for!

I looked into buying one for my business (to fabricate custom parts, enclosures, etc. for protoypes of products I had been hired to design for clients).

The general concensus was that THEY are hobbies -- for folks who want to spend their time tinkering with the printer instead of the thing that is being printed!

Instead, I was directed to many excellent on-line service bureaus that have a far wider range of capabilities upon which I could ever afford to become expert. Let them make the parts and deal with the technology involved. I.e., much like traveling the few blocks to the service bureau down the street to have color photographs printed instead of maintaining color printers on-site to do it myself!

I'm sure you can design a better foam cushion for your chair's seat. Or, tires that are better suited to a particular application specific to your needs. Why not purchase the technologies to be able to make these yourself, as well?

[Burgerman]

The general concensus was that THEY are hobbies -- for folks who want to spend their time tinkering with the printer instead of the thing that is being printed!

And right now, thats the state of play. They are impractical as tools.

[Scout]

The general concensus was that THEY are hobbies -- for folks who want to spend their time tinkering with the printer instead of the thing that is being printed!

And right now, thats the state of play. They are impractical as tools.

Picking nits: they're impractical as tools for Joe Average User. But, the right bit of kit in the hands of the right personnel can work miracles! And, the number of different "materials" that can now be used to print with keeps growing -- in unexpected directions.

IMO, the right approach is to invest in the skillset to be able to efficiently craft 3D models (assuming you want to be able to make something "original" instead of just a "me too" copy of something that someone else has designed/created). It takes a bit of effort to develop the "3D mindset" -- especially when you start having to think in terms of subtractive operations, etc. And, the ability to manipulate/analyze a 3D model in the 2D presentation that your computer presents takes a bit of practice.

[I use a motion controller to let me more intuitively manipulate the model's presentation instead of trying to use the 2D mouse motion for that]

[ex-Gooserider]

There are 'services' that can print out models on higher end printers that can be very high quality - at a not unreasonable price...

The 'hobby level' printers are a mixed bag, mostly what they can produce is marginal for serious use, but are good for doing 'form / fit / function' type testing before paying for professional production...

I would point out as well that Will has used his 3-D printer to make parts for his chair, with reasonable results...

Here at the Asylum, we have a limited investment casting capability, and one of our classes involves using a 3-D printer to make the model, which is plaster coated and burned out to make the one-shot mold for the casting....

So while I think a lot of the claims about 3-D printing are over-blown, they do have uses... Just be aware of what your needs and desires are before shelling out for one, so that you know you are getting something that will work for you...

ex-Gooserider

[terry2]

I built a D-Bot with loads of upgrades.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065

I've been printing parts for my mates car in carbon fibre. Very strong filament.

[Burgerman]

You can print carbon fibre?

How does that work?

[ex-Gooserider]

You can print carbon fibre?

How does that work?

Basically by having a nozzle that feeds in the filament as you are printing the part, with the result that the fiber is embedded into it. Requires extra planning to arrange the way the fiber gets laid down...

The problem is that since the part can only have fiber put in as it is printing each layer, you get great strength in the X-Y plane, but still have layers that are readily separated on the Z plane. Thus you can only make parts that are structurally robust in two dimensions, which may not be enough...

(Look for Mark Forge printers)

ex-Gooserider

[terry2]

You can print carbon fibre?

How does that work?

Basically by having a nozzle that feeds in the filament as you are printing the part, with the result that the fiber is embedded into it. Requires extra planning to arrange the way the fiber gets laid down...

The problem is that since the part can only have fiber put in as it is printing each layer, you get great strength in the X-Y plane, but still have layers that are readily separated on the Z plane. Thus you can only make parts that are structurally robust in two dimensions, which may not be enough...

(Look for Mark Forge printers)

ex-Gooserider

If you use Simplify3D software you can a lot more than that. You can have infill at 100% or you position the part so it's stronger.

I use a lot of Flexi filament and Nylon. I'm going to use some changing colour filament on my chair next year.
I will use glow in the dark filament, which is yellow in the day time.