Dragging this thread back up since it has some good pictures of my existing wheels and hubs on the Ranger-X... I figured while I'm waiting for the next set of tires for the casters to arrive, I'd get back to working on making the rear wheels I got from Shirley fit...
According to other discussion, the Shirley wheels have a 90.5mm bolt circle diameter and the center hole is 75mm.
As best I can tell, the existing wheels have a 62mm bolt circle, and the hub flange OD is about 82mm / 3.25" - or bigger than the center hole in the new wheel
There is about 1/2" (13mm) of space between the stock tire, and the fender bracket that is the tightest clearance point - if I moved that, might be another 1/4" or so to the motor... The stock wheel is a 3.0 - 8 tire, the new wheels use a 3.5 - 8 tire, so nominally 1/2" wider... (measured - stock is about 2.75" wide, new wheel is about 3.75"
- so much for nominal sizes....)
I definitely want to keep the chair as narrow as I can, so if I can use that space and pull the new wheels in as far as I can, then the end result will be nicer wheels without making the chair much wider
To make things even more annoying, the mounting flange on the new wheel is more towards the inside of the wheel than the old one, so just pushing the new wheel up against the hub flange gives me 0.625" 15mm of space, plus the added wheel width would make the chair a LOT wider - so BM's approach of cutting an adapter plate to bolt to the outside of the hub seems out....
So I'm wondering what I should do?
For reference, I'm attaching a closeup photo of the hub that I've added some rough dimensions to show what I'm talking about
- hub closeup with dimensions
The hub is keyed onto the shaft, and sandwiched between a step on the motor shaft and the nut on the end (Yes I know that is not an ideal design!) so it's length seems pretty fixed. The material looks like cast / forged steel.
I have two or three ideas at this point - I am interested in feedback...
1. Turn the flange down to <75mm so the new wheel can go past it, and then make an adapter plate that is bolted or welded to the BACK of the flange... I would likely need to remove the existing studs out, and make different bolt holes... Given the 41mm diameter (which likely could be turned down?) I don't know if there would be enough 'meat' for a good mount...
2. Press the studs out, and put the hub on 'backwards' which would effectively move the flange face in about 35mm.... Then make an adapter disk that bolted into the existing holes in the flange (possibly press the studs back in from the other direction?) Rough math says I'd have more than enough room - 35mm -15mm = 20mm which means an awfully thick adapter plate, or possibly some interesting turning - but that's a solvable problem....
ex-Gooserider