ZXD2400 modification guild 3Kw 0-60V 0-50A

[optical10]

NON of the PG stuff, will work on 12V so you can be sure its 24.

Connect to the anderson on the rear if he fitted one.
You cant pull that out by mistake, or connect it wrong. And an XLR or anderson or both, on the other end.

Be sure its set to charge at 12A max, and away you go. It needs to charge at a max of 28.20V and drop to 27.2 float at some point after around 6 to 8 hours. Dont kow what shirley choose, but you can adjust that easily. Once you figure it out.

Thanks , so the 1st XLR charge cable i make doesn't need 3rd earth wire to the grey anderson on the shirley rear?

Also I you mean I can make a 2nd charge cable from the grey anderson on the shirley rear to my red anderson on my series batteries in situ under chair?

[Burgerman]

No. Non do. DC needs 2 wires.

Anderson on battery? Yes. Or add a Y cable, and leave it where you can plugin to charge.

[flagman1776]

I think a Y cable would be really smart. Position the charge connector where you can get to it easily. Avoids all the skinny wires to the XLR.

[shirley_hkg]

@optical10:
here is what I did to your ZXD

1,3-stage charger enabled
2,Charge Ah count enabled
3,Auto output on power up DISABLED
4,Values I put down at eprom
73-- 930.
74-- 15.

Also : CV @28.2C & current around @10A (⅓C)

[Scooterman]

@optical10:
here is what I did to your ZXD

1,3-stage charger enabled
2,Charge Ah count enabled
3,Auto output on power up DISABLED
4,Values I put down at eprom
73-- 930.
74-- 15.

Also : CV @28.2C & current around @10A (⅓C)

1) How do I do this?
2) Mine already does this I think?
3) How to do this also?
4) Are they the Charge Voltage and Amps for 3-stage lead acid charging?

[shirley_hkg]

https://translate.googleusercontent.com ... HWdRXTJMkQ


They are in menu #9.

Don't forget to SAVE your settings before leaving .

Ah count is meaningless when used as power supply , say PL8 etc.

[shirley_hkg]

Values I put down at eprom

73-- 930. Means to set Float charge volt at 93% of Charge Volt .

74-- 15. Means to set residual current to trigger to float charge when current drops to 15/1000 of Charge Current .

[Scooterman]

Cheers Shirley

I will have read through of the menu settings in the link, I roughly remember now from last time.

[Scooterman]

PS: I've just checked mine and one of the two doesn't output when the mains is applied. But I will check the other one, for some reason I think it does? If so I will sort it

[Burgerman]

73-- 930. Means to set Float charge volt at 93% of Charge Volt .

Well charging AGM at 14.4 to 14.7V means a 13.7V float. (13.5 to 13.6 is correct so pretty close.)
Unfortunately, charging gel at 14.1V means that 93% you get a too low 13.1V float. Should be 13.5V to 13.6.

So set it manually! Set 14.1 (28.2V) CHARGE. Set to 13.5V FLOAT for MK Gel.

74-- 15. Means to set residual current to trigger to float charge when current drops to 15/1000 of Charge Current .

Its not wise to set it to any percentage of charge current as that means if you charge at a low current like say 2 or 3A the termination current will be MUCH later, than if charging at say 40 or 50A via Anderson. Because that will make it end at 1.5A!

Ideally, with float, you want it to terminate, and drop to float at around 500th of battery capacity.
So with small 30Ah battery thats approx 60mA. That will be around 4 hours CV.

[shirley_hkg]

I simply copied LORBBINS settings , but forgot he's using Odessey.

Float should be @95% with gel instead.

Setting residual current at the display is precise.
However , it will be reverted to Eprom value , every time the charge current is altered.

[Burgerman]

I just set it on the display.

12A
28.20V
.3A
27.0V

[shirley_hkg]

You have a clear mind .

[LROBBINS]

Having had a few days break from other projects I finally got around to putting together my second ZXD. Having re-cased one already, knowing what problems to expect, and intending to switch to low-noise thermostatically controlled fans in this one too, I figured it would go quickly. FLW. There were some significant differences between no. 1 and no. 2.

One problem in no. 1 was that the fine wires to the display screen had no strain relief and I broke one when re-mounting it at the top of the "fancy"case. In no.2 those wires were properly bundled and cable tied, but that bundle was so short that there was no way to make the screen reach the fancy-case cutout no matter how I tried to orient things. I had to unsolder, one by one in order to not mix up where they go, all but one of the wires and splice in an extension. While doing this I also noticed another difference: two of the wires (black and white) go to a small board added on top of the main boards. In no.1 this board was solidly affixed with resin, on no.2 it was held only by a single header pin connecting to ground - a failure waiting to happen.

Second difference. The encoder on no. 2 has a shorter shaft. Although the knob provided also had a shorter skirt, if fully seated the push function didn't work. Filing about a mm off the skirt was needed.

Third difference, though maybe in the fans rather than the power supply. When cold, these fans draw so little current that the power supply doesn't detect them. On no. 1 shunting the fans with 310 ohms (2 620 ohm in parallel because that's what I had on hand, 480 ohm was too much) took care of this. On no. 2 I hand wired in some SMD 330 ohm resisters - and the power supply didn't see the rear fan. Having lots of 120 ohm through-hole resistors, I swapped for one of these and we're back in business. Probably wasting near 60 mA at 12 V (ca 3.3 mA = 0.7 Watt at the mains) when at full speed compared to a resistor with a value just low enough to work - not worth worrying about.

Lastly, I did as ex-Gooserider did in his. I took the insulating sheets out of the stock case and put them into the fancy case (and re-did this in no. 1 as well). Probably not really needed though as for both of mine the coils are a good 20 mm or more away from the case, so the spark that bit Shirley was hardly likely to happen in mine.

So, in the end, it took me about as much time to do this second one as it did to do the first, but I now have two ZXD - one for my workbench, and one ready as a power supply for when I go lithium.

For those of you who bought units already in the fancy case, you may want to open them up and check a few things. See whether insulation is needed between the case and circuitry, see whether the wires to the display board need some strain relief (hot melt or some such would probably be enough) and see whether the little board mounted above the main boards is securely fixed in place.

Speaking of Li Shirley, what's happening with the possibility of having a capable top-only balance board? Any chance of getting whoever designed the ZXD modifications to add a function - so that if a top balance board sees that 1 or more cells go high it signals the ZXD to reduce output current? That would make it a real plug-and-play gentle and fast balancing solution for LiFePO4.

[shirley_hkg]

It is sold for quite some hundreds since . Successful cases are abundant. I bought 2. One quit .
The other seems to work.
Haven't finished a complete charge cycle yet.

Have to finish my 300Ah mega G24 pack first , and redo the right hand brake of my 16 years old GB around Christmas.

Will return to it afterwards.

It has the ability to throttle charge amp. Most user disabled it , and jump to 2A individual cell balance right after bulk.

[LROBBINS]

Great Shirley, if this works out for you I will definitely jump on the LiFePO4 bandwagon. I just can't see having a setup where I am the only one in Rachi's life who can keep her chair charged. First, because I'm always over-extended to begin with, second, because being 74 years old I have to plan for when I'm no longer around.

[shirley_hkg]

I had great admiration to your affection for your child.

Meanwhile , I always felt sad to learn the other.

second, because being 74 years old I have to plan for when I'm no longer around.

[optical10]

I just set it on the display.

12A
28.20V
.3A
27.0V

Could somebody kindly walked me through entering these values into which menus please?

Reading the translated instructions it seems that menu 9 is for EEPROM settings and menu 5 saves said settings but for a novice instructions start off with "With the power off, press and hold the encoder for 3 seconds, and it will boot into this factory menu." which makes no sense unless you're working off an internal CMOS battery?

A short minute or two video of somebody entering these value screen above would be very helpful if that's at all possible

[Burgerman]

Its hard to explain. And I am stuck on bed. But just play with the one knob and watch the screen. It is not intuitive at first. Then you sort of get it. The menu helps. Forget all about eproms and stuff thats all way beyond me!

What do you see on screen when turned on? In detail.

[LROBBINS]

"With power off" doesn't mean unplugged, just turned off (push knob 10 seconds to turn completely off). Then push the knob 3 seconds and you will enter programming mode instead of volt/amp mode. If the screen asks for a code to enter programming, put in 88 because one of the e-prom settings had already been changed to require this. You can later change that back to 0 so just the 3 second push will get you right into programming mode.

[optical10]

Its hard to explain. And I am stuck on bed. But just play with the one knob and watch the screen. It is not intuitive at first. Then you sort of get it. The menu helps. Forget all about eproms and stuff thats all way beyond me!

What do you see on screen when turned on? In detail.

I see 28.20V in red on the left and 8.5A in green on the right, it confirms that I am on a three stage like Shirley programmed as the white circle is in the upper left corner.

I'm trying to do an MP4 video (seven seconds long) but it's too large to to upload outright hosted on Google Drive share the link.

[optical10]

Its hard to explain. And I am stuck on bed. But just play with the one knob and watch the screen. It is not intuitive at first. Then you sort of get it. The menu helps. Forget all about eproms and stuff thats all way beyond me!

What do you see on screen when turned on? In detail.

I see 28.20V in red on the left and 8.5A in green on the right, it confirms that I am on a three stage like Shirley programmed as the white circle is in the upper left corner.

I'm trying to do an MP4 video (seven seconds long) but it's too large to to upload outright hosted on Google Drive share the link.

[Burgerman]

If you press the button and turn it you can adjust those figures. They are currently correct for gel, and via an xlr connection.

[optical10]

If you press the button and turn it you can adjust those figures. They are currently correct for gel, and via an xlr connection.

Okay great that's good to know so no input needed from me. Waiting a replacement xlr as the positive pin base got a little too hot and has left it couple of millimetre short connecting in the control! 12AWG silicon cable into XLR solder bucket terminals is a fiddly business.

Many thanks

[LROBBINS]

An XLR connection is limited to 12 Amps and awg 12 (3.3 mm2) seems like gross overkill for this. awg 16 (1.3 mm2), even with low temp insulation like pvc, should be quite adequate and voltage drop will be minimal unless your charger is several rooms away from the chair.

[optical10]

"With power off" doesn't mean unplugged, just turned off (push knob 10 seconds to turn completely off). Then push the knob 3 seconds and you will enter programming mode instead of volt/amp mode. If the screen asks for a code to enter programming, put in 88 because one of the e-prom settings had already been changed to require this. You can later change that back to 0 so just the 3 second push will get you right into programming mode.

Okay that makes a lot more sense, I guess it was lost in translation. Many thanks

[optical10]

An XLR connection is limited to 12 Amps and awg 12 (3.3 mm2) seems like gross overkill for this. awg 16 (1.3 mm2), even with low temp insulation like pvc, should be quite adequate and voltage drop will be minimal unless your charger is several rooms away from the chair.

Of course you're right I ordered the awg 12 for the Anderson to Anderson connection from the charger to the batteries so it's not wasted as an alternative connection method but just not as convenient as the XLR connection.
ordering awg 16 as we speak, many thanks

[shirley_hkg]

Values I put down at eprom

73-- 930. Means to set Float charge volt at 93% of Charge Volt .

74-- 15. Means to set residual current to trigger to float charge when current drops to 15/1000 of Charge Current .

Eprom values are in menu E.

[Burgerman]

Why would you want the termination point to be related to the charge current?
If you charge fast, then the termination should if anything be later. As it takes TIME to allow the charge to soak into all the active lead past inside the frids. So you atually want it to terminate at a smaller current rather than a higher one.

If you charge at a low current, it has time to partly recover from the peukert effect and so can be terminated sooner, at a higher residual charge current. Relating it to charge current does the opposite. And it might not ever terminate at all if you set a low charge current!

Whowever thought that was a good idea is not understanding batteries.

[optical10]

@Burgerman

They are currently correct for gel, and via an xlr connection.

Even though the 28.20v 8.5a settings are correct shouldn't I still be trying to correct the float settings issue by inputting your settings on the display you stated below?

by Burgerman » 10 Dec 2019, 02:39

I just set it on the display.

12A
28.20V
.3A
27.0V

But do the CV and float settings above alter for MK gel via an xlr connection rather than Anderson or did you factor that in?

Also now that I am up and running with my first top up charge with my MK gel via an xlr connection to front Shirley banana/pole charge cable how long should my float once the current is at zero carry on for please?

@shirley_hkg

Setting residual current at the display is precise.
However , it will be reverted to Eprom value , every time the charge current is altered.

As I will not be changing the charge current Burgerman's method of changing the display settings rather than Eprom value, once he confirms his settings are for MK gel via an xlr connection rather than Anderson, has to be the way to go?
Many thanks