ZXD2400 modification guild 3Kw 0-60V 0-50A

[Gnomatic]

Thanks shirley. Trying to be cautious and not break anything

[shirley_hkg]

Efficiency is low at low output . PSU heats up when current drops to 1.X amp. Fans run at higher speed during cell balancing .

[Burgerman]

Its like a huge puzzle at first. The more you assemble the case, fully dissasemble the old one, the more you understand as you go along. Works out that its quite easy in fact, after you get about halfway and you see how it all goes. And everything fits neatly. You will need to unscrew all larger wires etc from the board, use 4mmsq silicone cables internally at 50A, and preferably fit an anderson to the inside rear case, countersunk bolts to the top. Just needs a small rectangle cutting in the back cover. Or through a grommet on a fly lead if you font have a dremmel/hacksaw? Since the front terminals wont like more than 20 max.

Cant finish mine till I get a replacement mains input socket, arrives in 3 days from ebay. Mine was in 6 bits! You may need a glue gun to fix the opposite end of the display solidly, and thats about it. Pretty somple. All the countersunk case screws are different length on the sides. Long ones go to the heat sinks. An IQ test! Took me 2.5 hours...

The rear fan goes inside the case, and plenty space for a thicker one. The front gauze material on inlet, is very restrictive, tempted to use an open stainless mesh, instead. I suspect that cooling will be an issue, causing noisy fans. Removing that mesh will make the fans run slower as it will cool much better. I have some of these already, which will do. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-Fan- ... Swv0tVBime

Or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-80mm-HO ... SwfcVUJxZL

[Gnomatic]

Good tips. I'm sure this will take me well more than 2.5hrs LOL. I got the front of the old case off easy enough. The rear is a bit more puzzling, trying to figure out best approach for loosening the high power output terminals on the rear. Not sure if I should focus on those first, or getting the 'shell' off. Am taking my time, its an interesting project.

[Burgerman]

Unscrew the mains/dc wires from the board. 4 screws. 1 earth. Then its easy... You dont refit it/them anyway. 2.5 hours? If you just dive in, take it all apart, it is easy enough in a couple of hours. If you look at it a lot and puzzle, it will take a day!

[shirley_hkg]

Insert tools here to loose the main outputs .

[steves1977uk]

https://translate.googleusercontent.com ... O_2h0w8c8w

Still can't believe it's compact size!

Steve

[Burgerman]

You will when the smoke escapes...

Did you get a case?

[steves1977uk]

Nope, just the PSU with the mod already done. Been testing it with the PL8 today, set 27v max and 20A max for a 15A charge, seems ok so far...

Steve

[steves1977uk]

Charge & PSU graph... (Remove .zip as usual!)

Steve

[Burgerman]

Its a charge profile...

[steves1977uk]

Yes, it's easier to open the charge profile with CCS to view the graphs!

Steve

[Burgerman]

There are no graphs.
Its a charge profile?
Are you or

[steves1977uk]

Nooo, certainly not! Open it in CCS then it should pop up with the Cell volts vs Time graph... From there you can view the Supply volts vs Time graph which gives you a rough idea of the PSU's stability.

Steve

[Burgerman]

Nope. it wont. Its a charge profile! It contains only the charger settings for your profile.

The data is saved from as a different type of file. .CP8 file

[Burgerman]

That works. Maybe just corrupt?

Looks ok.

[Burgerman]

File sizes are different. First one must be screwed up. I take it back, you are sober.

[steves1977uk]

Opens for me as a graph in CCS... Anyway, here's what I was trying to show...

Steve

[steves1977uk]

File sizes are different. First one must be screwed up. I take it back, you are sober.

Ah, no problem BM! Maybe it'd be better if we were

Steve

[Burgerman]

Saw it. 2nd file download worked fine! Power supply also looking OK. Drops .3V under load. Not marvelous, but acceptable considering the power output and the price! Good enough for a charger. Probably a bit dodgy as an accurate bench supply. But for most purposes its fine.

[Burgerman]

Your charger works by switching power ON/OFF at high frequency. What you are seeing on that screen is the loaded (pulling power) and unloaded (not pulling power) at whatever frequency the PL8 is set to.
You can choose:
125 Khz
62.5 Khz
31 Khz

The lowest frequencies are the greatest efficiency. As in less wasted energy. But that requires the biggest components in the charger. As for eg capacitors. So this is only allowed at low currents. So small batteries, or slow low amp charge rates.

The highest frequencies are easier on the charger. And the power supply. Since the on/off times are shorter. So the charger can use smaller components, and still charge at 40A. It also usually means a closer match between supply on/off states. And is kinder to the power supply.

Just so you know what you are measuring. As usual, everything is a compromise! 40A charge requires higher frequencies, and is less efficient. And 2A requires the lowest frequency for best efficiency. If I make a charge profile with a wide Amp range, say 1A to 40A then I choose 62.6khz. If I make a profile for a small battery at say inder 3A I choose 31khz. Etc.

Your graph shows that at high currents voltage falls. And at low currents it is actually higher than the unloaded setting. And so crosses over. So it would likely perform better with a huge very low impedance capacitor in the output. But its fine as is.

[Burgerman]

I am using the fancy case.
It allows me to make a few improvements.
1. Better fans. By better I mean thicker, slightly more power. But not louder.
2. Lose the front fan gauze/black filter, and replace with a simple free flowing ginger guard. Because its very restrictive, and this is a 3000 watt supply, meaning that even if 90% efficient (and it may not be) some 300 watts must be removed!
3. At 50A the 4mm connectors will likely melt. So those are going to be on a 20A fuse, soldered in the wiring, and an anderson connector will be fitted internally at the rear of the case.
4. Space is tight so the green (ground) and the red/black connectors, as well as the anderson connector will use silicone 4mm sq cable (10 a.w.g)
5. The old case's 4mm connectors will also be fitted to the rear. Or a set of safe ones.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEB6452-RT-S ... 0005.m1851
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEB6452-SW-S ... 0005.m1851
As used on the PL8.
Or, https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... +&_sacat=0
6. So I feel safe, I will fit a 15A fast blow type fuse inside on the 240V AC supply.

[shirley_hkg]

If you were getting tired of it , please let me know first before putting it up on ebay .

[Burgerman]

No, I need. Just waiting for stuff from ebay to finish it off!

Silicone cable, replacement AC socket, Anderson mounting countersunk stainless bolts allen, fans + free flow screen, etc. Then I will give it a polish and start using it.

[shirley_hkg]

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://diy.lgm3361.com/zxd2400/3/&xid=25657,15700023,15700124,15700149,15700168,15700186,15700189,15700190,15700201,15700205&usg=ALkJrhiEpGE3pPSx2zOTsvypO_2h0w8c8w

Still can't believe it's compact size!

Steve

Great job by Steve .

[Burgerman]

What did he do?

[shirley_hkg]

What did he do?

Translated the mod pages.

[Burgerman]

Yes I figured it out now. Well done steve! Very useful. Now I can calibrate exactly! And understand how it works.

[steves1977uk]

Steve

[Gnomatic]

Thanks for the translation link, Steve. I'm sure I'll still have questions anyway LOL.