Burgerman wrote:You were not swept away then?
Barely survived !
No death toll .
https://youtu.be/NCNqVi9naog
Burgerman wrote:You were not swept away then?
martin007 wrote:Hello again.
I have been busy for a few days and I haven´t been able to connect.
I have a question for you.
What is the correct order to connect the batteries to the PSU and the electrical network?
Connect.
1º- Powerchair to PSU.
2º- PSU to electrical network.
shirley_hkg wrote:Burgerman wrote:Normally power up first. Connect to chair last.
Yes, and power off last .
Power on the power supply, and enter the power-off state, do not short-circuit the output end, hold the knob for 15 seconds , turn on the power, wait for the white 0 word to appear and then let go , it has entered the automatic calibration mode.
Tip: Each time you enter Auto Calibration, the factory settings will be restored first, and all settings and calibration parameters will be cleared.
shirley_hkg wrote:
BTW , have you removed password yet ?
LROBBINS wrote:I think that I now have this supply mostly set up as I want it, so I thought I'd share my settings in case they're of use to others. Aside from use as a bench supply, the main use will be for charging series-paired Odyssey P1500 batteries. So my first step was to go to Figure 5 of the Odyssey technical manual to see what voltages they recommend:
temp. -- Vcv -- Vfloat
20oC -- 29.7 -- 27.5
25oC -- 29.4 -- 27.3
30oC -- 29.2 -- 27.1 (for typical summer days here, this is what I've set)
40oC -- 28.8 -- 26.8
With out a Vcv timer, Odyssey recommends switching to float at 0.1C10, which is 0.63A which seemed to me excessive. Burgerman suggests a more reasonable 0.2A, but I found that with a pair of old, almost fully-charged batteries current didn't fall to 0.2A after 8 hours, but fell to 0.3A in about two hours with Vcv = 29.2 at a room temp of ca. 28oC, so that's what I've set.
So, now on to setting up the supply:
The Eprom values (factory menu E) were set for my situation. I foresee rarely if ever needing more than 30V output, nor more than 30A so I set:
Eprom address --- Value
52 --- 3000 (= 30 V maximum allowed setting)
53 --- 3000 (= 30 A maximum allowed setting)
3-stage charger float voltage and transition current are set as thousandths of the base voltage and current settings:
Eprom address --- Value
73 --- left at default 930 which is 93% of CV voltage and very close to Odyssey's recommendations
74 --- 10 (this is 1% of base Amps setting, = 0.3A)
As others have noted, the stock fans are annoyingly loud. Not having appropriate resistors on hand, but having a large stock of 5Amp Schottkeys, I put 4 Schottkeys (with matching male & female connectors) into each fan line. This reduced the noise noticeably at low fan speed, but at low currents and with the shop at ca. 30oC it went to high speed at currents less than 1 Amp even, and that was still quite noisy. I therefore raised the transition temp a bit:
Eprom address --- Value
50 --- 55 (up to 55o from the default 50o)
and I added some Arctic silver between the heat sink and the left side plate of the case. The fan still gets pretty noisy at float, when the room temp is 30o, but stays relatively quiet at room temp = 25o and the outlet air is cold and the side plate barely warm. I think I could safely raise the transition temp to 60o, but will wait till I have some more experience with this.
At one point in all my fiddling things went quite strange - output voltage and current were about 1/2 of the set values, so I re-did the auto-calibration. To do that you have to get rid of the "88" password that had been set, then shut off the power supply with the push button and re-start holding the button pressed for ca. 15 seconds. (No sense for me to attempt a manual calibration as my multimeter is un-calibrated.)
Eprom address --- Value
99 --- 0 (changed from 88, and I've left it at 0 = no password so a 3 second long turn-on press brings me right to the factory menu without entering the 88)
The instructions for auto calibration in the user's manual are pretty clear - you just need to short the output when it says to, and then remove the short when it says to do that, and don't press the encoder during the rest of the multi-step sequence.
Once (with some help from Burgerman) I got used to the (translated) manuals, I found them reasonably easy to follow. I have, however, not yet set over voltage and over current values (factory menu 8). These are to protect from runaway failures of the power supply electronics and I will probably set them once I've experimented a bit to find reasonable values that don't give false errors (especially when used with motor loads than can regeneration-pulse voltages over the set voltage).
One last thing. At one point I had the front panel open with the supply unplugged but battery still connected (bad boy!) and shorted B+ to the case. I now have a nice (but hidden when buttoned up) burn mark on the case. A piece of tape is now on the case by those banana jacks. Oh yes, I also drilled a 2.5mm hole in the front fan surround and added a cable tie to stress-relieve the display/control wiring.
One last thing. At one point I had the front panel open with the supply unplugged but battery still connected (bad boy!) and shorted B+ to the case. I now have a nice (but hidden when buttoned up) burn mark on the case. A piece of tape is now on the case by those banana jacks.
shirley_hkg wrote:LROBBINS wrote:
At one point in all my fiddling things went quite strange - output voltage and current were about 1/2 of the set values,[/color].
shirley_hkg wrote:LROBBINS wrote:so I re-did the auto-calibration. To do that you have to get rid of the "88" password that had been set, then shut off the power supply with the push button and re-start holding the button pressed for ca. 15 seconds. (No sense for me to attempt a manual calibration as my multimeter is un-calibrated.)
Eprom address --- Value
99 --- 0 (changed from 88, and I've left it at 0 = no password so a 3 second long turn-on press brings me right to the factory menu without entering the 88)
The instructions for auto calibration in the user's manual are pretty clear - you just need to short the output when it says to, and then remove the short when it says to do that, and don't press the encoder during the rest of the multi-step sequence.
[/color].
steves1977uk wrote:I thought a 120v 15A circuit could easily do 50A at 30v (1500 watts). Have you limited the Amps value to 32?
Steve
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