Bushes, bearings, fasteners, etc.

[foghornleghorn]

My rear suspension is due new bearings and bronze bushes etc. Is there a recommended UK supplier(s) for parts like this?

Prefer to buy quality over price. Would rather be taking something apart once than having to do it several times because cheap parts have failed.

[woodygb]

Any bearing with a "name" like SKF ,NSK ,FAG etc is fine.

Try here...

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/

[foghornleghorn]

Thank you.

[Burgerman]

I suggest that you also swap all bearings for stainless steel, sealed types if any of them show any sign of corrosion. Or just do it regardless.

[flagman1776]

There are other threads on ball bearings. You want rubber sealed stainless steel. Not metal shielded. It's best it you can find the markings on the old bearings for size though some of the code will be different if it's an upgrade. We'll help you.

[foghornleghorn]

Not taken anything apart to look today but the exploded diagram I have got says R8ZZ which are a metal shielded bearing. Why would I want rubber instead? Metal sound more durable and I'm going to be bashing the fuck out of them rather than driving through water.

[Burgerman]

ZZ or RS means its the exact same bearing with metal SHIELDS designed for use in a place where theres oil to lubricate like in a gearbox or engine. The SHEILDS are not seals, they allow oil in, and anything else, like water or dirt, or fibres in. And they are not lubricated, other than by a trace of oil when new. This evaporates and dissapears. The SHIELD is designed to stop excess oil, which in high RPM operation in a motor couses the balls to skid and develop flat spots. This does not apply to us. And a dampday is all it takes. Humidity.

A RS or 2RS bearing has a rubber lipped metal oil seal, and the bearing is packed with grease for life. The seals keep all the water, dirt out. And keep the grease in. They are used where theres no natural lubrication present, like in motors, wheels, cars alternator, food machinery, etc.

And stainless steel, because the main cause of failure on our chairs is due to corrosion. The zz bearings allow water in anyway. and so rusts... The RS sealed bearings keep water out, unless you use a pressure washer, or hair and fibre get wound into the bearings. That then allows water in... So rust. Stainless steel bearings as used in wet places, like marine use, or food machinery etc, DO NOT CORRODE even if water DOES get in!

So on a powerchair, you want STAINLESS STEEL. And SEALED greased for life bearings. This matters way more than quality, or price. Because the best possible super expensive ZZ Steel normal bearing is NOT lubricated, is not grease packed, and will rust at the first sign of a damp day from humudity alone. Why do the manufacturers use them? Because they never thought about what they are doing or dont give a crap.

And they are cheap and dont fail.

USE these!

2rs sealed stainless bearing search: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... g&_sacat=0

[foghornleghorn]

Apart from the odd rain shower I avoid water but curious to see what state the current ones are in now as well as the play I can feel.

[Burgerman]

Some play in a bearing is normal. What matters is smoothness, lubrication, no pitting, and zero signs of corrosion or creeping in the housings. Its never worth not replacing used bearings anyway as they are cheaper than .

You dont need to go near water to get a rusted bearing. A high humidity day is adequate once the trace of oil has eveporated from a zz sheided bearing. And also dust in dry conditions is actually attracted and trapped by the oil traces in those. Causing wear obviously.

The 2RS greased for life, will prevent dust, and water, and be sure that grease is always present. Stainless steel is barely more expensive and makes very sure that they will never corrode if you were to drive in the salty sea water even. So not swapping to stainless is false economy.

[flagman1776]

I have just replaced all the ball bearings in my TravelScoot #1. A year ago I pulled lint & fibers out... I didn't have the parts on hand & needed Scoot back in service... but here I am back again a year later. Scoot & the bearings are 6 years old. This time I replaced with new. I have the bearings on hand to do TravelScoot #2. As much as anything, I'm replacing because the seals wore, allowed lint & fibers in which loaded the bearings wasting power & eating range.
Once you know how, changing bearings is quite easy. It's nearly as much trouble to remove the wheels as to finish the job.