Electronic experts - BLUETOOTH

[snaker]

I tried to remotely charge a single 75Ah cell. It worked perfectly

This is the spare cell I bought when building my 150Ah pack last year. I left it full and did not touch it in 15 months. After recharging, there are only 344mA returned. It nearly zero self-discharged

[Burgerman]

Says driver error...
Go to device manager. Delete the bt device with driver error, and all previous attempts at connections from the older BT thingy using up serial ports. Choose show hidden devices. And delete all the greyed ones.
Then reboot, check the unused serial port is disabled, and that both are 19200.

So welcome to the BT PL8 elite club!

Wires? Were we're going we dont "need" wires... @ BTT Future.

You should store that cell at around 30 to 60% full.

[Mechniki]

Says driver error...
Go to device manager. Delete the bt device with driver error, and all previous attempts at connections from the older BT thingy using up serial ports. Choose show hidden devices. And delete all the greyed ones.
Then reboot, check the unused serial port is disabled, and that both are 19200.

So welcome to the BT PL8 elite club!

Wires? Were we're going we dont "need" wires... @ BTT Future.

[snaker]

Much testing later.

Charge between 20mA and 700mA and it behaves perfectly. From 700 to 800 its intermittent and loses contact. 1A and it fails every time at about 12 to 24 secs after charge begins as the current begins to ramp up. And doesn't reconnect without stopping everything, and restarting PL8 and BT off/on. Does not matter what the source of power is, Same on power supply or a battery.

I am heading this problem too. Charging the pack or a single cell at a low current (< 5A) is fine. But at a high current (20A), the software lose signal after starting a couple of seconds.

[Burgerman]

I no longer get that. At 40A works just the same.

I did several things at once to fix.

I fitted some tiny capacitors across supply to the BT module, and extended the wires so that all 3 connect to the PL8 connector pins. So that the neg, pos, as well as signal are all connected. I did this with a servo cable, that sticks outside the case and plugs on. So I can disconnect it to use the FUIM3 if firmware update happens. And problem went away.

Theres a post somewhere? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8496&start=90#p131519

[snaker]

So did you fix it by fitting 2 capacitors and a resistor? Did you use a schottky diode?

I leave the BT module outside of the case and power it by a 5V source. In my case, will I need to fit only a capacitor on the signal wire to filter signal?

[Burgerman]

Yes I added the low drop diode, those two capacitors, and connected all 3 wires at once. So not sure what it was that actually cured it. But its been perfect ever since. I suspect it was the diode? Not sure. It may have been the ferrite ring! I added that too. If powered by battery I dont see how those noise reduction things could bother you though. Twist cables too. Mine works regardless of current now, often charge at full power, no problems.

Why not fit all inside?

[snaker]

No spare PL8, not enough courage

[Burgerman]

Thats never worried me. Its really simple. No external stuff needed. Works perfectly from 10V supply to 30V tried and tested for weeks.

And charging cameras, chairs, up to 40A no issues, works in the next room fine. I suspect that the cable wrapped aroud the small green ferrite ring, and small cap is the cure. But the diode may be the key. Should have tested one fix at a time.

So did you fix it by fitting 2 capacitors and a resistor? Did you use a schottky diode?

All the above, and 3 wires, and twisted supply cable, and ferrite ring. Belt and braces! Only took a few secs. So all at once to be sure.

[snaker]

Yes, the schottky diode is the key
After replacing by a schottky diode, now charging at 20A is fine

[Burgerman]

Well at least we now know which it is.

What happens is that the silicone diode removes too much of the forward signal. Leaving volts too low, and just working. Charging at higher amps causes some large high frequency electro magnetic noise with overwhelms the small only just signal. So the low V drop diode gives enough extra signal voltage to remain above the noise. Instead of dropping .65v it drops .23v.

[Burgerman]

You could make an "external" power supply.
Use a hobbywing 6S low amp 5V supply. As I linked to. Just make a connector that goes between the PL8 supply connector and the supply. 2 inches long, with an extra 2 small wires for your cowardly external BT box. All tiny, will go in heatshrink, neatly.

Do you understand what I mean?

POWER SUPPLY --WIRE------------------------------------------------------------------------OUTPUT CONNECTOR----SHORT EXTENSION CONNECTOR WITH 2 EXTRA OUTPUT WIRES----PL8 CONNECTOR----PL8. ?????

So something like this, but with a small servo style connector added as a power take off for your external USB thingy.
https://www.amazon.com/ec5-extension/s? ... 0extension.
AND
https://www.banggood.com/Hobbywing-3A-U ... rehouse=CN

Still think you should just fit internally as it a no wires built in always on setup.

[Burgerman]

Woodygb could make these! And plug and play.

[expresso]

i would be interested if i can buy one ready made from woody etc, plug and play - i dont feel good about opening my charger up etc, - with my luck - i toast it =

with the Power supply cable - how do you use the power cable if its connected to my PSU ?

[Burgerman]

Adda short Y shaped cable to power the external BT thingy.

[steves1977uk]

i would be interested if i can buy one ready made from woody etc, plug and play - i dont feel good about opening my charger up etc, - with my luck - i toast it =

with the Power supply cable - how do you use the power cable if its connected to my PSU ?

One of these or similar... https://www.amazon.com/ProgressiveRC-AC ... B00CD9V6Z4

Steve

[snaker]

This 'cowardly' BT box works really well. I feel it is even more stable and better than the stock usb cable. It is cheap, easy but very useful. Everybody should have this remote charging thingy, no mater internal or external.

[Burgerman]

Yes. I know. Been doing it the olde hyperions before this for many years. Plug into chair or whatever, then grab the laptop and away you go.

[Scooterman]

Do you think a phone app is possible? I wonder if revolectrix will develop one for future generation chargers?

[Burgerman]

They already have. But I hate phones and the thing usesthat terrible bump charger interface and has different options. When they do a windows CCS I will buy one and test to see if its any use to us...

[Scooterman]

They already have. But I hate phones and the thing usesthat terrible bump charger interface and has different options. When they do a windows CCS I will buy one and test to see if its any use to us...

A phablet suit you sir?

Ah! Of course I’ve got such a terrible memory I remember now seeing some guy on YouTube with the new Touch charger hooked up to an iPad Pro.

[Burgerman]

phablet?

If it runs i anything, apple or google anything, then not in a month of sundays.

If it runs Windows 10, particularly the LTSC version I use on my laptop/pc then yes and of course it will need adequate screen size, resolution, and a real keyboard. At which point its my ultra thin infinity edge 4K screen tiny laptop. So it may as well have a proper mouse too. And of course it still wont run the correct CCS that doesent yet exist.

And then I have 3 SSDs, 1TB of solid state storage, mobile internet, skype, 2.4 and 5ghz wifi, bluetooth 4, and a proper computer thats small and light enough to shove down my swetshirt when on the way to the pub! And its no bigger than a large phone when folded and 12mm thick at one edge and 7mm at the other.

Literally a foot wide. size of a sheet of A4 and not much thicker. With USB C and about 16 hours on time battery life. Mobile dual core so no fans.

Mines full carbon fibre shell/lid, so light as anything, and very rigid. Gorilla glass screen. And is rubberised finish so non slip.




youtu.be/2ZtimZms36s

[Scooterman]

It's nice

It's also got a big touchpad. MacBook always used to have the best keyboards and touchpads, that one reason why I bought mine. But I will go back to Windows when my MBP goes kaput. New Macs are hideously expensive.

And an advanced user like me needs an adaptable machine

PS I've still not managed to activate window yet. I need to 're read that other thread. I followed Steve's link but got a bit scared cos I got confused about what to and what not to click on.

[Scooterman]

Is the Bluetooth conversion something I could do with my new soldering iron and guidance from WD.com users?

[woodygb]

Guidance .... Ummmm ...never hold the hot end !

[Burgerman]

Only you will know!
Its easy enough.

And yes I have occasionally held the hot end. Hurts. Soon let go.

[ex-Gooserider]

Only you will know!
Its easy enough.

And yes I have occasionally held the hot end. Hurts. Soon let go.

Important lesson - if soldering iron falls off bench DO NOT try to catch it!!! The cord pretty much guarantees that it will fall hot end down.......

(ask how I know.... )
ex-Gooserider

[snaker]

Does Revolectrix release any other docs about controlling PL8 like the one in the link below?
http://www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1374.pdf

I am trying to write an android app that can start/stop charging and monitor cells through BT. I still have not found a way to get the preset name list in the charger yet.

[Burgerman]

Dont think so.

[snaker]

PL8 allows to query its current status. The docs below describe the way to extract parameters from the raw packet. I want to get the actual charge/discharge current but I do not find it. I only see these 3 parameters that relate to it. Which one might be it?
- "Slow Average Amps"
- "Fast Amps Reading"
- "Average Amps Reading"

http://www.revolectrix.com/support_docs/item_1374.pdf