Note that you pictures show 6V batteries - WRONG! We use 12V batteries... (otherwise the drawings are OK)funkykeyboard wrote:I know you're right mate. I just been searching the forum, and reading it for a couple of hours still haven't got what I need to know. It isn't that there isn't enough information, it just seems to be information overload. What I need is really basic.
So I wire them in series to get 24 V. I go from negative terminal to positive terminal on one wire, then I have two wires one going from the positive terminal one going to the negative that go into a plug which plugs into the R-net controller?
https://imgur.com/a/hCtTJWl
Depends on the battery, most use some sort of screw or bolt - size depends on the terminal.Back in the day when I was a mechanic, you had a big connector which you clamped with a bolt onto the battery terminal. In your picture it looks like a little connector. Is that it? Do you just put a self tapping screw into the terminal with that connector?
https://imgur.com/a/9LPymnW
YesCharging cable? Then do I just connect positive and negative cable to an Anderson, and then connect to the positive and negative "output" terminals on the batteries?
https://imgur.com/a/DcfZ48Z
what is the name of the connector with the green circle round it, and the one with the brown circle round it?
https://imgur.com/a/bMOFW4h
2. Picture was from here http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/off-roa ... rchair.htmBurgerman wrote:1. Is a series connected battery.
2. Is a stock loom from a chair. Basically some barely adequate cables, with 6mm ring terminals that connect to the battery and anderson 50 connectors. This loom just does exactly as described in 1 above.
3. https://imgur.com/a/DcfZ48Z Yes...
4. Anderson... To connect they all need to be the same colour. Or black/grey.
Thanks for this, at least I have a clue what I am doing now, even if I don't know what I'm doing yetex-Gooserider wrote:One of the questions is if you want to be able to charge the 12V batteries in parallel (i.e. directly from your car) at all or not.... It is somewhat simpler if you don't need / want to do this....
Divide the setup into two sections - inside the battery box and outside it.... Outside the box should be essentially identical no matter what is in the box. Inside depends on the type of battery, but the same stuff comes out...
Basically there are two different sets of wires -
1. The high-current wires that feed power to the chair, and that do all or most of the charging. These can be the same basic configuration
2. The 'balance' wires that are ONLY needed with Lithium. These wires do NOT connect to anything on the chair itself other than the lithium batteries
I think it is easiest to keep the wires going to power the chair separate from the charging wires... You need two wires from the 24V output terminals of the batteries to the input to the power module... Optionally you can put a set of Anderson SB-50's in the middle so that you have a 'pigtail' off each pack that connects to the chair wires.
For charging you can either have separate connectors for charging and balance or just stick with a charge and balance combined in a D-sub (and just don't use the balance pins for lead)
Since the D-subs we have been using only have 3 pins for power wiring (we only use two) if you want to be able to do parallel charging on lead, you need to do separate connectors as that needs 4 contacts (BM uses two SB-50 Andersons, I use PP-75's )
It would also be possible to have two different style charge hookups for the lead and lithium packs, and different cables to go to the charger....
Inside the battery box, for lead you either need a jumper connecting the middle two battery terminals (if NOT charging in parallel) OR a lead from each battery terminal to the outside, with appropriate connectors, and a jumper to connect the middle two when using the chair... For Lithium, you need the jumpers that tie the cells together, and the balance wiring....
There are all sorts of possible ways of doing things - you just need to figure out what you want to accomplish and then it becomes fairly straightforward to figure out how to do it....Note that you pictures show 6V batteries - WRONG! We use 12V batteries... (otherwise the drawings are OK)funkykeyboard wrote:I know you're right mate. I just been searching the forum, and reading it for a couple of hours still haven't got what I need to know. It isn't that there isn't enough information, it just seems to be information overload. What I need is really basic.
So I wire them in series to get 24 V. I go from negative terminal to positive terminal on one wire, then I have two wires one going from the positive terminal one going to the negative that go into a plug which plugs into the R-net controller?
https://imgur.com/a/hCtTJWlDepends on the battery, most use some sort of screw or bolt - size depends on the terminal.Back in the day when I was a mechanic, you had a big connector which you clamped with a bolt onto the battery terminal. In your picture it looks like a little connector. Is that it? Do you just put a self tapping screw into the terminal with that connector?
https://imgur.com/a/9LPymnWYesCharging cable? Then do I just connect positive and negative cable to an Anderson, and then connect to the positive and negative "output" terminals on the batteries?
https://imgur.com/a/DcfZ48Zwhat is the name of the connector with the green circle round it, and the one with the brown circle round it?
https://imgur.com/a/bMOFW4h
Green circle looks like a pair of shrink-tubed grey Anderson SB-50's. Not sure about the brown circle, looks like the plug that goes into a P&G power module (I think they use the same one on both R-net and Pilot+)
ex-Gooserider
Burgerman wrote:You wont find them on eBay. Theres 3 options.
Use a R-Net battery loom from a 120A chair -- ebay, or a chair manufacturer.
Use the correct plugs, available from PGDT -- best option.
Use no plastic plug as such, just use the terminals, which are 9.5mm blade terminals for battery and motor wires. And 6.3mm ones for brakes.
...
funkykeyboard wrote:(I want to be able to switch between the 2 in case the airline is not happy about carrying a home-made lithium battery.)
Scooterman wrote:funkykeyboard wrote:(I want to be able to switch between the 2 in case the airline is not happy about carrying a home-made lithium battery.)
How would they even know?
LROBBINS wrote:We fly a lot and have never been asked questions of that sort. Usually it's an ignorant "are they dry batteries?" and that's it.
the 2 batteries are wired like this https://imgur.com/a/DcfZ48ZBurgerman wrote:That depends...
On how your chair and battery wiring is done. Normally you charge via he control pod which is 24V but limited to low Amps.
On my chairs I can do that. But I can charge at both 12 AND 24 volts, via anderson connection. I choose 12V when driving, and overnight charge as it ensures batteries are charged as 1. And so perfectly balanced up.
I charge at 24V and at high amps during the day to maximise power returned for quickness. Maybe 40 to 80A.
And I charge at 24V if theres only a mobility type charger around. So not often!
THIS https://i.postimg.cc/pLgh37nt/BM-3-wiring-loom.jpg
Shows a 24V charge connection. But it DOES NOT show the cable inking the batteries together?
funkykeyboard wrote:the 2 batteries are wired like this https://imgur.com/a/DcfZ48Z
I mostly charge just overnight, so I will charge them at 12 V as you suggest. Thank you very much.
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