Dynamic Rhino2 160A

[Pierro]

Hello

I have questions about the "Maximum Motor Voltage" setting of my controller.

Possible settings are between 24V and 26V.

Current setting = 24V

What happens, if I increase this value?

What are the consequences of increasing to the other parameters of the controller?
(Could i get Problems with the other Values?)

Does my Scooter get a little bit faster?

Thanks, Pierro

[Burgerman]

That depends on the battery.

[ex-Gooserider]

As Burgerman said, it depends on the battery, as you can't get more volts out of the controller than the battery can feed into it.... Lead bricks sag a lot under any sort of load, so you aren't going to get much above 24V out of them under the best of circumstances...

Lithium conversions will give a little bit more voltage, and don't sag so you will get a very slight speed boost from upping the voltage.

Either way increasing the voltage setting won't really hurt anything.

On a power chair w/ dual motors doing tank steering, the controller needs a bit of 'head room' in the setting so that it can speed up the outside motor when turning in order to keep the speed constant. Increasing the voltage will give a slight speed boost on the straight, but the chair will slow when turning.... On a single motor scooter, this isn't a problem so no real reason not to push the voltage setting up.

Changing the voltage shouldn't have much impact on the other settings in the program.

ex-Gooserider

[Pierro]

Hi,
thanks a lot for your answers.

My Sport-Rider has only 1 engine. After charging the Voltmeter shows 27 Volts. My batteries are 2x 80Ah Sonnenschein. If the batteries goes out of order, I will buy 110Ah. But the dealer says, do not charge the 110Ah batteries (through) on the controller.

Do I need a switch to disconnect the controller from the batteries, while charging? Or is it right to charge directly the batteries via an additional XLR jack?

Which charger would you prefer to charge 110Ah batteries?

Best regards, Pierro

[Burgerman]

My Sport-Rider has only 1 engine. After charging the Voltmeter shows 27 Volts.

After charging, correctly, your sonnenschein batteries (exactly the same technology as MK gel but in difference sizes and shapes) will be 28.20V gradually falling to a fully charged voltage of 26.2 to 26.3V during the next few days. This will fall further over time. But will take a long time as they naturally self discharge at a few % per week.

My batteries are 2x 80Ah Sonnenschein. If the batteries goes out of order, I will buy 110Ah. But the dealer says, do not charge the 110Ah batteries (through) on the controller.

You can charge 80Ah batteries, or 110Ah batteries at UP TO 12 Amps through the controller.
You can charge 80Ah or 110Ah batteries at anything up to around 30A or more, via a different conector such as an Anderson 50 as many here use.

Do I need a switch to disconnect the controller from the batteries, while charging? Or is it right to charge directly the batteries via an additional XLR jack?

No.

Which charger would you prefer to charge 110Ah batteries?

If the 110Ah batteries are gel, they need exactly the same treatment while charging as your 80Ah batteries.
Which means that they need a 2 or 3 stage charger that does the following:
1. CC stage that is around 30A (or limited to 12A max via the XLR connector) until the voltage reaches 28.20V for GEL or 28.80V for AGM.
2. A constant VOLTAGE stage at 28.20V for Gel. Or 28.80V for AGM. That continues for 8 hours max or until current falls to 1000th of capacity. Whichever occurs first. Finding a charger that does this is extremely difficult. No mobility charger does this.
3. IF the charger does stage 2 CORRECTLY then no float stage is required. If not, then it should now continue indefinitely at 27 to 27.2V which will both complete the charge, and make sure the battery lasts a very long time.

[Pierro]

Thank you for the valuable tips.

I will increase the setting to 25V and then report how it behaves. Thx

[Pierro]

Hello,

after a long time I want to report back. I have set the "Maximum Motor Voltage" to 26.2 V. That is the maximum setting. Before I could test that, my throttle pot. brokes and it tooks me a while to install a new one.
Shortly afterwards my batteries broke. Then autumn and winter came. I thought buying new batteries, better I wait until spring. A few days ago I installed the new 100 Ah batteries. I chose: CTM CTC 100-12 drive lead gel battery 12V 100Ah.

Now I was finally able to take an extensive test drive. With the throttle remaining the same, it suddenly breaks in and then comes back. Like a slight jerk. I will probably go back to the old setting to find out if it is because of the "Maximum Motor Voltage" setting or if something else is broken.

Oh please excuse the translated text. I suspect that it is difficult to understand.

Pierro

[Burgerman]

No, easy to understand actually!

[ICEUK]

I assume your voltage is to high and when you are doing even the slightest of turns or more power is required for one motor you have no head room from the batteries to supply the motors so your speed gets reduced.

[rover220]

I assume your voltage is to high and when you are doing even the slightest of turns or more power is required for one motor you have no head room from the batteries to supply the motors so your speed gets reduced.

its a scooter i think so only one motor

[ICEUK]

Ah ok, i have no ida then on a scooter

[Pierro]

Hi Guys,

on my last ride with my Sport-Rider I suddenly had a breakdown. The rider stopped and did not drive a meter.
At some point (hours later) back home, I examined every single wiring and found that the main connector on the controller had a loose connection. Now I want to buy a new control unit and am considering buying the DS180 with 180 amps instead of the Dynamic Rhino2 DS160.

Now my questions: Would I have an increase in performance? Will my rider go a little bit faster with it? Can I easily replace the controller?

I would be very happy to receive answers. Greetings, Pierro

[Burgerman]

Will make approx 12% more torque when stalled or accelerating up a hill, climbing a curb. It will make zero difference to speed.
Amps = torque.
Volts = speed.

[woodygb]

Should be a straight swap.

https://www.dynamiccontrols.com/sites/d ... ue-3_0.pdf

[Galaxy2020]

my scooter got the rhino 2 dyamic 160 and with the right tweeking its reach 10.5mph with 75ah batterys

[Pierro]

yes, for me too, but I always think that it could certainly go faster. It's limited. You would need the factory access, then it would certainly be more ? Thanks and greetings to everyone, Pierro

[woodygb]

If the speed is set at 100% ... THEN THAT IS IT!...There is no more to be had via the control unit.

[Pierro]

Thanks Woody. So the controller is the weak point?
I was hoping that there would be hidden settings that would make it possible. I know there is a different gearbox for the Rider - 20:1 (=20Km/h) instead of the traditional 25:1. But 400 euros.

[Galaxy2020]

woodygb is right mine was at 80 doing 8mph now at 100 doing 10.5. Then its comes down to batterys and input fro. What I know more volts etc

[woodygb]

Thanks Woody. So the controller is the weak point?
I was hoping that there would be hidden settings that would make it possible. I know there is a different gearbox for the Rider - 20:1 (=20Km/h) instead of the traditional 25:1. But 400 euros.

Not really a weak point , it can only supply whatever the battery has available and volts = speed.

There is also a limit to the amount of volts the controller will accept .. this voltage is usually under the next logical step of adding an extra 12 volt battery.

So as you suggested gearing is one way to get extra speed ...BUT you will add extra ( Amps ) load to your batteries and probably reduce the range that you can travel.

[Burgerman]

I will try again!

Volts = speed. Directly.
Amps = torque, ONLY when the motor requires more Amps such as when stalled.

Max volts = battery volts. When set to 100% speed, no matter what controller, you get full battery volts at full speed. Nothing limits it.

So 30A or 200A controller = battery volts at max speed. Also NO controller at all, direct connect to battery = same speed. Battery volts... Volts = speed. You have only 24.

[Pierro]

Thanks Burgerman, I got it. Assuming I wanted to make the scooter faster at (almost) any price, how would you go about it? Let's say about 30 km/h. What are the options and what should be considered? Just hypothetical? Thx to all, Pierro

[Burgerman]

Heres the options. Taller gearing. Double the gear ratio or fit large wheels, same thing, and it will draw DOUBLE the current at all speeds. So the controller will murder the battery and you will have half the torque available for hills (at double the current) and so everything will overheat. That includes wiring, motor and controller. And battery too.

Or double the voltage.
So that means replacing your battery with lithium, and using enough cells to double the voltage (which means half the capacity) and that will run the motor at 2x the RPM. And you will not lose any torque. And the current will remain as before. But your controller will explode at 48V you need one that doesent!

The motor will take higher RPM and volts. But will not take higher watts. So if you maintain double the speed, on a hill, you may smoke the motor. As doubling the volts means 4x the power. Or 4x the watts IF YOU USE THAT POWER. So on hills, slow down to 8mph.

Then you are good to go, with double the speed and no loss of range.

[Pierro]

I thank you Burgerman for your valuable tips!

Today I removed and repaired my controller. (hope so) I have re-soldered all connector pins. After a test drive of 5 km, I can be very satisfied. The final test drive is still pending. I'm very happy right now.

What I've wanted to say for a long time, is that this is a great forum. Lots of great people with real tips that you can't get anywhere else. Thank you and I wish you all a nice day, Pierro