Irving wrote:Unless you have the quick release, which wasn't fitted as standard with electric recline, you need a tool to lower the frame completely - the info is in the Sedeo seating user manual
it seems a bit of a pig of a design just to get it in the car!
duke1 wrote:Irving wrote:Unless you have the quick release, which wasn't fitted as standard with electric recline, you need a tool to lower the frame completely - the info is in the Sedeo seating user manual
thanks irving it seems a bit of a pig of a design just to get it in the car!i shall have a look tomorrow as she wants to try it in lidls sunday,i much prefer the gunter meier chair its so simple,i like simple.
my next trick is trying to straighten out the bent centre footplate another over complicated over engineered piece of design but i have to admit its a very comfy and fast chair i was expecting little torque and poor hill climbing as its 8mph but i guess both myself and tina being very light helps there.
see im hoping she likes the puma well enough to let me refurb the beloved gunter chair she loves so much and is sorely in need of motor and gearbox overhaul and has been for over a year and desperately needs a new coat of paint after many years as was built in pre 1985 but is best built chair ive ever seen still,cheers
Burgerman wrote:The salsa one, and F55 ones (BM2/3) I use are easily removed. Thumb wheel, and on the reclining salsa a pin and R clip that needs to be pulled out of the actuator at the bottom. Obviously intended for flight etc. But not really designed for daily use in say a car.
Burgerman wrote:Also not too sure I would feel safe with a 185kg load in the rear of a car, unless properly secured. It will continue at 70mph when you hit something... Also a lot of weight in the rear may well cause directional stability issues if you try cornering or swerving to miss something at speed. I think if you must load a heavy reab chair it should be in a van, tied down properly in the middle. Not the tailgate of an estate car. Or we have a huge mass located at the rear end, thats the classic unstable airplane setup... That said, people do it. As long as you drive like my gran its likely OK. And dont hit anything.
duke1 wrote:hi all well i found the release bracket thing and did manage to fold the seat no problem but the anti tips just lift the drive wheels of the deck and so it cannot go up the ramp i shall fit a quick release to enable swift removal of the wheels from the anti tips which should allow use of the ramps
,the ramps are very sturdy steel suitable for even heavy quad bikes and the like so no fear of the ramp collapsing,the floor of the car has inch thick marine ply bolted securely to the floor and 2 tie down points which are not needed with tinas gunter chair as it is far smaller and lighter and the anti tips lock to a diy bracket attached to the rear seat back of the car so if i ever manage to get the puma up the damn ramps it can be safely secured.
though i get its meant more as transport than to be transported itself but if its to be any use it must climb the ramp under its own steam safely so as usual i shall have to modify whats needed to make it work.
my car runs out of mot on the 25th feb and may or may not pass on emissions if not i shall be looking for wav or similar i have seen a few smallish vans with side loading doors and a chair lift as spares or repairs (the only way i can afford vehicles) but tbh every year for last 10 years i have thought the car would fail and it keeps passing funny as i have never liked the car much and was only bought for £300 and have spent around £1000 in those 10 years so running costs are half the AA average for a car at 7p a mile average is 14p a mile and means the money i have saved by self maintaining the car goes to the chairs for the expensive bits we couldnt otherwise afford so i hope it passes again!
im sure she will like the puma once ive ironed out the faults and broken bits discovered the jsm mount is broken and needs welding and that coupled with odd sizes caster tyres and a sticking caster bearing are route cause of the dodgy steering and tendency to go right on its own i have done the tyres and bearings and steers way better and should be fine once welding is done,cheers all for the help and advice
terry2 wrote:duke1 wrote:hi all well i found the release bracket thing and did manage to fold the seat no problem but the anti tips just lift the drive wheels of the deck and so it cannot go up the ramp i shall fit a quick release to enable swift removal of the wheels from the anti tips which should allow use of the ramps
,the ramps are very sturdy steel suitable for even heavy quad bikes and the like so no fear of the ramp collapsing,the floor of the car has inch thick marine ply bolted securely to the floor and 2 tie down points which are not needed with tinas gunter chair as it is far smaller and lighter and the anti tips lock to a diy bracket attached to the rear seat back of the car so if i ever manage to get the puma up the damn ramps it can be safely secured.
though i get its meant more as transport than to be transported itself but if its to be any use it must climb the ramp under its own steam safely so as usual i shall have to modify whats needed to make it work.
my car runs out of mot on the 25th feb and may or may not pass on emissions if not i shall be looking for wav or similar i have seen a few smallish vans with side loading doors and a chair lift as spares or repairs (the only way i can afford vehicles) but tbh every year for last 10 years i have thought the car would fail and it keeps passing funny as i have never liked the car much and was only bought for £300 and have spent around £1000 in those 10 years so running costs are half the AA average for a car at 7p a mile average is 14p a mile and means the money i have saved by self maintaining the car goes to the chairs for the expensive bits we couldnt otherwise afford so i hope it passes again!
im sure she will like the puma once ive ironed out the faults and broken bits discovered the jsm mount is broken and needs welding and that coupled with odd sizes caster tyres and a sticking caster bearing are route cause of the dodgy steering and tendency to go right on its own i have done the tyres and bearings and steers way better and should be fine once welding is done,cheers all for the help and advice
What's a JSM mount?
woodygb wrote:I assume that you have various actuators ... if so, any chance of swapping over the plugs between a working one and the one that isn't?
duke1 wrote:woodygb wrote:I assume that you have various actuators ... if so, any chance of swapping over the plugs between a working one and the one that isn't?
hi woody theres 2 module s one says act4 one act 2 they look similar but not identical i think the diagnostics has picked something up but no idea what it means,any clues heres pic of relevant section,i think!
rover220 wrote:tilt was an optional extra on top of lift. theres a setting for dx2 that turns icons off for actuators that arent fitted or faulty. they come from the factory all programmed to have all the actuators so its plug and play to retro fit.
post a pic of your seat lift unit with it lifted
woodygb wrote:duke1 wrote:woodygb wrote:I assume that you have various actuators ... if so, any chance of swapping over the plugs between a working one and the one that isn't?
hi woody theres 2 module s one says act4 one act 2 they look similar but not identical i think the diagnostics has picked something up but no idea what it means,any clues heres pic of relevant section,i think!
Not a clue .... how's about trying to do what I suggested?
duke1 wrote:hi all well i found the release bracket thing and did manage to fold the seat no problem but the anti tips just lift the drive wheels of the deck and so it cannot go up the ramp i shall fit a quick release to enable swift removal of the wheels from the anti tips which should allow use of the ramps
rover220 wrote:Need a pic from pointing up at the bottom of the seat as that's where the tilt actuator will be if it has one.
woodygb wrote:rover220 wrote:Need a pic from pointing up at the bottom of the seat as that's where the tilt actuator will be if it has one.
While your here Rver ..is there any problem with swapping the actuator plugs over to see if the problem swaps ?
rover220 wrote:Need a pic from pointing up at the bottom of the seat as that's where the tilt actuator will be if it has one.
rover220 wrote:yes no tilt there, easy to retro fit, will need actuator and limit switches if you want it as the factory would do it
Return to Everything Powerchair
Users browsing this forum: acid_coke and 135 guests