Cmos Clear ?

[expresso]

Other than clearing the Cmos on the board itself - is there any other trick or something someone can try with out having to open the case and hit the clear cmos button ?

of course today - i decided to go back to fixed volts because i felt it was unstable at times with all the power features on - - on fixed volts - didnt have any issues -

so me being me - i rebooted - made the changes and put the fixed volts in place - BUT realizing it too late - i needed 1.350V to be stable at 4.7 - i put in 1.50v instead - thats good for 4.5v

too late - i wasnt able to get in windows and stuck even if i got in setup to change it back - i freeze and cant do anything - - i barely make it to load original settings and then it freezes - i cant never make it to hit enter and then f10 to save and exit -

other than having to go inside and clear Cmos - is there any other way or trick that i dont know about ?

[expresso]

i did clear Cmos - but had to take my whole case off and place it on my desk to do it - pain in the ass since i cant do it myself -

on the bright side - it was alot of dust build up on my fans - one inside and one side fan etc, - no dust covers there - so i took the time to clean it up very good - - i actually removed two fans which i think i may not even need - i put everything back and its fine and a bit cooler also now -

i recall on my OLD setup - i ran a wire with a toggle to outside back of the case which controled the Clear Cmos - this was back in the NF4 days motherboard -

case is clean now - system is fine - but if i run into this issue again - is that the only way ? open it up and clear Cmos inside ?

this is the Reason on my next board - i would want a Clear Cmos button on the back so i wont have to open it or move it etc, - but i dont find many MB with that button as i used to find years back

[steves1977uk]

This would solve your problem... https://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-SS ... B002BFUF5M

Steve

[expresso]

nice find - i have to see if i can find that here in the states now -

but would that work on the MB we have - you have the same one i have - gigabyte - UD5 is what i have - where would you put those connectors on our board ?

[steves1977uk]

They would go on where the clear cmos jumper is, and the jumper fits on the pins under the red cover.

BTW Merry Christmas expresso...



Steve

[expresso]

i have just a button that says cmos - i never looked for pins on the board - does it even have them or just the button on top near the power button

thats a bit much even for me - good luck with that - needs the jaws of life to get out -

[expresso]

cant even find that item here - i am sure there has to be something i can get here - last time this happened was many years ago - its only when i am messing aroud in there with settings

now that i cant easily reset it myself - i dont want to mess with it much - or else have to take it apart again - if that did happen - i would love to have the cable here ready to install

[Burgerman]

Modern boards dont need a button. Or the 2 pins near the battery. If they dont boot, you just automatically get the boot failed due to overclock, and safe default cpu/memory settings on the next full POWER OFF boot time. And if you choose to ignore it, it goes back to the overclock boot. And rinse and repeat. At least on my last 3 ASUS boards. And you can also save multiple configurations to both bios memory for future use and to disk for swapping to other PCs.

Also, dont go back to fixed volts, find the specific problem and adjust! Thats what overclocking is about.

Its just a momentary switch. ANY momentary switch will work. You just need a connector with two pins to go on in place of the jumper. It will be very close to the battery.

[Burgerman]

https://www.amazon.com/Sub-Mini-Push-Bu ... B004GIKRNC
THIS

https://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-Solderles ... breadboard

And one ofthese...

[expresso]

Modern boards dont need a button. Or the 2 pins near the battery. If they dont boot, you just automatically get the boot failed due to overclock, and safe default cpu/memory settings on the next full POWER OFF boot time. And if you choose to ignore it, it goes back to the overclock boot. And rinse and repeat. At least on my last 3 ASUS boards. And you can also save multiple configurations to both bios memory for future use and to disk for swapping to other PCs.

Also, dont go back to fixed volts, find the specific problem and adjust! Thats what overclocking is about.

Its just a momentary switch. ANY momentary switch will work. You just need a connector with two pins to go on in place of the jumper. It will be very close to the battery.

well in that case any new board wont need it then - ?

i always had fixed volts - when at 4.7v - i tried with the offset and it was working for a while with the offset - but every now and then when not in use or overused - it would crash - so i guess it wasnt 100% stable with the offset -

with fixed volts - never had that issue - i can try 4.5v with offset and see how that works out - or i can just add a pinch more volts with offset to be safe - normally fixed 1.25V is good at 4.5 and i need 1.35v for 4.7

[expresso]

i have those push buttons already - for chair stuff never used them either there - Yet at least - its all about the volts - i have to feed it enough to be sure - or else its unvolted and rish being locked out again - its just a pain to unplug everything - remove it and have it put on the desk - and back

its not light the whole case for the girl - or girls - but it was worth it to do today for the fact that i cleaned it up also - alot of dust - from the two inner fans i had - removed them both - will see how it holds up this way -

stock is 1.19V - i think - i can try a 200 offset with 4.5v first - thats more than enough when going full load - - with 4.7v - i would try a 250 offset - then it would hit 1.4v at full load for sure

or can just leave it to turbo up to 4.2v with stock volts - but heres the thing - leaving the Volts on AUTO is actually just using alot more when its loaded than needed -

if i left this stock setup - i can undervolt it a bit instead of leaving it auto - 4.5V at 1.25V works fixed - but if left on AUTO with Stock setup - no OC at all - it can reach over 1.25V during loading of the CPU - its actually better fixed for that reason - the big jump is going to 4.7v - takes a whole Volt more to make it work and maybe a bit more - since age - could be a factor -

what worked when it was New - may not always work for ever that way - can be i need a bit more juice to be stable - now i want this to work at least another year - till new Chips come out - before tackling a new setup - i got my fix with the new monitor which is Very nice - good choice - love the size and the picture - brightness - contrast etc, -

[Burgerman]

Theres doxens of settings. Not just volts. At least 50 different things to fine tune. Theres about 20 on memory timings and bus/cache and chipset just to begin. And individul memory slot adjustments, and individual cpu core settings.

My board easily clocks to 5ghz if you turn up the volts and make a load of heat and stress. But after 2 weerks fine tuning everything I got it to benchmark much faster at the same clock speed, and quiet, and at only a fraction of the heat. Theres much more to overclocking than CPU frequency and adding volts. If you dont have all these settings, get a better board. But you likely do. Just turn off all the things that say auto!

i got my fix with the new monitor which is Very nice - good choice - love the size and the picture - brightness - contrast etc, -

I told you. You can always get better ones than you were using - that you thought were fine. But you cannot ever go back! Plug your old monitor in, and you cant live with it now. You soon get used to the better one. Thats why I am now using OLED 55 inch! My old 30 inch monitors look like dull, miserable little things, with little contrast or colour!

Same with the PC "box". New fancy glass one, with latest m board/CPU/graphics with everything cooled by huge radiators and M.2 NVMe PCIe rapid disk drives is a leap year ahead. Its prettier and better quality everywhere being all 3mm or 1/8th anodised aluminium. And tinted toughened glass. But its also stressless, and so almost completely silent, and it benchmarks everything way, way faster! And boots so fast that "sleep" or hybrid sleep isnt much quicker!

[expresso]

i can fine tune it - the same settings i have done from the start - but the volts have to be there - theres a Min. Volt that i have to use reguardless - i am running on 3rd Gen CPU - now we are up to 9 Gen - so i am sure alot has been improved on the MB Since then - 4.5 is simple to use daily and least amount of volts to be stable - thats the sweet spot for my MB and chip - will go try that again with an offset to see how that works - if you dont hear back from me today - you know what happened

Monitor is great - Old one was given to my sister - she still had a 20 year old 19 inch square Monitor that i didnt even want to look at it with it off -

with the new MB today - at least the ASUS you say - they will always reboot even after you OC too much or make a mistake etc, - they will always reboot and give you the option to reset it and continue ? no need to ever clear Cmos with a bad OC etc, ?


with memory timings - that i am not or never got into much - that can be very tricky unless you know excatly what to do - i stick with stock OC - going to extreme settings - Profile 1 - which is all i have - that OC the memory with out having to adjust every single setting - thats much more tricky to get right than the rest of the system -

i dont have the fastest memory there is - at the time - DDR 3 1600 - - now we are up to DD4 4200 and more maybe - there must be a sweet spot for that also - in terms of speed and cost -

[Burgerman]

My DDR3 memory was 2000mhz. It ran fine at 3000 with different timing and voltages. And thatallowedmy CPU to run a higher overclock too or to use lower voltages once optimised.

Pretty much the same on my new 3000 memory. Its happy at 32, 35, 3600. Even with 4 sticks. Running at 3400 all day long. With just a tweak of a few mem voltages. To match the official XMS 3600 memory.

[expresso]

My DDR3 memory was 2000mhz. It ran fine at 3000 with different timing and voltages. And thatallowedmy CPU to run a higher overclock too or to use lower voltages once optimised.

Pretty much the same on my new 3000 memory. Its happy at 32, 35, 3600. Even with 4 sticks. Running at 3400 all day long. With just a tweak of a few mem voltages. To match the official XMS 3600 memory.

i never played with memory - i used the XMP profile and that was it - i upped just a bit more volts .50 thats it - i went with the MB approved memory that would work - - i didnt want to have a real headache if it didnt work because its not supported etc, - at the time - the supported speeds were 1333 -

yes i have read and seen others who OC there memory also - got it at 1866 - i keep it stock and OC with the XMP Profiles built in - giving me 1600 - i know it works - memory can be a real pain if it acts up - from a bad OC - i have never tinkered with memory before so cant even say i know where to start - i dont

on next system - again same - will go with the best OC supported memory speeds - maybe i can get mines to 1866 also - never tried -

[expresso]

i know we spoke of this before - i dont recall what the verdict was -

CPU - Z shows my Vcore at 1.356v full load -

Core Temps - shows - VID at - 1.286v -


which is correct - or are they both correct - if they mean something different from one another ?

if CPU - Z is correct - i can then lower my VID Offset - - but dont want to lower it too much if i am wrong and get locked out again -

this can be stable with 1.250V - if its in fact using 1.356V - i can lower it a bit more -

so which is correct ?

[Burgerman]

Doesent much matter. The correct voltage is just enough to give no errors with something like prime running an instance per thread. Overnight.

And high enought to give no errors at the other settings you chose.

But errors do not neccassarily come from the CPU but the memory, chipset, bus, etc. So sometimes reducing or increasing many of these a fraction makes your CPU errors disapear too. So then you can lower the voltage . Or increase the multiplier, or turn the cpu power saving stuff back on...

[expresso]

ok but how can i know the correct volt during load etc, - one program shows its one voltage - the other says another - i am using these number to adjust it -

does VID - on core temp - mean the same as CPU Z - core voltage ?

from the past - it worked fine on fixed at 1.250v - using a offset - in the bios i have it where it should be there when full load - i added .60 offset to the stock 1.190V -

that adds up to 1.250v - and it works fine so far this way - but under load - the programs shows a bit more - i could hit 1.280v and back down etc, -

just wondering which program i should trust as the most accurate -

core temp - VID - always shows up a bit less than CPU Z - which shows higher core volts under load than 1.250V - if i follow CPU - Z i should be able to lower it a bit more in the bios on the offset -

but then run the risk of too low a voltage to run windows - should i trust the Bios settings i put in - or the programs ?
theres another setting i can lower a bit - CPU PLL - i recall helped to keep it lower heat - and no ill effects by lowering this to 1.7 from 1.8 stock setting - will do that next now that i got it working again with power features all on - at 4.5

[Burgerman]

Whatever allows it to work well. The actual number doesent matter. You really dont need to know it. Only what you set in bios and test. Neither will be correct anyway. Or both are. Depending on which sensor they use, as there are several on chip,depending on the averaging used, rounding errors, etc.

[expresso]

http://www.gigabyte.us/Motherboard/GA-Z ... support-dl

just curious to look around and realize they are still upgrading - i though they stopped years back - i am running the stock F14 - pretty much its fine i think - would it be wise to leave it alone or upgrade to the latest now ?

here is my MB - looking over it - i dont see where i would connect the home made cable to reset the Cmos - ?

another thing i am not sure - not that it matters now at this point - but those Sata connectors - theres a grey - white and black ones - i believe the Grey are the ones running the fastest - but not sure which are the slower ones - white or black ones ? they show it and talk about it but donst say which color are which

i think i my have one of my WD black HD on a slower port - one on the faster grey port - SSD i hope its on the grey port - i believe so - but its been a while and the wiring is hidden - would have to open both ends to check for sure - i wont be doing that unless i have to open it again for some reason

if i do - i would rearrange them if i can - the two CD DVD roms i have - i would put on the slower ports - and SSD and 2 HD on the faster ones - - i am not going to go crazy over it - but in case i have to open it again - i like to know and make the changes then - i mean i had this way from day one - i made a change once before which i think was a mistake on one of the HD drives - not sure why i rearranged them before -

5 years later i am still tinkering with this thing ever now and then -

[Burgerman]

CLEAR_CMOS at the bottom of this image...

Thats an old board? 2011 ish. There may be bios updates, CPU microcode updates, or chipset updates, graphics bios and driver updates for everything etc.

[expresso]

yeah i see it now where it is - and yes there are chipset updates and bios - i may just try to update those - one at a time - i havnt done one of those kind of updates in a long while - i dont want to brick it - and then i be pissed off -- i will first go back to stock settings before attempting a bios update - i dont even recall how its done any more -

yes i told you its over 5 years old i believe - but runs fine -

[steves1977uk]

That board has a dual bios I believe, so if the main bios doesn't update as it should, you can invoke the backup one. I always flash the latest bios on my PCs, never had a problem.

Steve

[expresso]

That board has a dual bios I believe, so if the main bios doesn't update as it should, you can invoke the backup one. I always flash the latest bios on my PCs, never had a problem.

Steve

yes it does have a dual bios which i would still have to open that up to switch it over - and try - - now something strange happened - for what ever reason - if i go into the settings during boot - my mouse dosnt work there like before - i have a logitech wireless - i have to put the usb receiver for the mouse in another usb port on my computer and then it works - but it worked before the way i aways had it - strange -

i did update the chipset - that was easy - but the bios - not sure - dont recall how i did it before and how its done correctly - i dont want to brick it or lock myself out of the computer

it would mean taking it apart again and having it on my desk to figure out which i wouldnt know for sure what steps to trouble shoot it - i guess bios switch first try

what bios are you running now - the latest is 16j - i downloaded it - but not sure how to install it - i dont want to guess -

[steves1977uk]

My board is the GA-H61N-D2V in my mini-itx server PC, it runs BIOS F4a which is the latest for this MB. I used Q-Flash to flash the BIOS from a FAT32 formatted USB stick.

Steve

[expresso]

My board is the GA-H61N-D2V in my mini-itx server PC, it runs BIOS F4a which is the latest for this MB. I used Q-Flash to flash the BIOS from a FAT32 formatted USB stick.

Steve

ok i though you had my same MB - will do the usb and get it ready - q flash i have to get

[steves1977uk]

I downloaded the BIOS for your MB expresso, the latest beta BIOS would offer better overclocking for Ivy Bridge CPU's since that has a later CPU microcode. I've also made a modded version with later SATA/Network/Graphics drivers, but you would use it at your own risk, although I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work!

Here's the Universal BIOS Updater script I used to update your BIOS expresso... https://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-G ... t-UBU.html

Steve

[expresso]

thanks - i dont get too involved to that level that you and others do - i always read that if you dont have a issue with your current bios - not to update it - and i agree - if its not broken - dont fix it - usually when i fix something that didnt need it - i end up breaking it

i may try the F16j bios - maybe - we see - but let me ask you think - what happens if you dont like it system dosnt work as good after - either stock or OC etc, - - can i reflash it back to the older version ?

[steves1977uk]

You can flash back to an older version, but you shouldn't need to. I've always stuck to the latest unless there's a major problem with it (highly unlikely!), then I reflash back to the previous one.

Steve

[expresso]

Ok heres a simple one for you -


the thumb drive - i cant format it to FAT32 - i can only do NTFS or exFat - i tried exFAT - with the latest bios on it only - does it have to be in a folder in the thumb drive or just the files - which when unzip it - there are 3 files - i copy and past it to the thumb drive - i see 3 in there - then i go out and go back in and theres only 2 -

so i reboot - END key - get the Qflash on screen - i can save the bios - i can upgrade it or exit -

and nothing works but the exit - mouse or keyboard dosnt respone if i click on save bios or upgrade bios -

exit bios - it does and thats it -

so it has to be the thumb drive ?

i went to Disk Management - i deleted the drive - started over and formated it - but only can do NTFS Or exFAT - and i need FAT 32 to make it work ? its 64Gig thumb drive i am using