Quickie 222 Se - Squeaks !!!

[Burgerman]

I wonder how many wires he thinks need soldering ?

There will be none. Unless he breaks it. But even then its simple to re-solder it.

Send us a picture!

[redandwhite]

Can you not unscrew the armrest pad from underneath and move it back to give the neceaary clearance then screw it back on in the adjusted position.
The knob on my P&G pod was continually coming offs o I glued it on with Guerilla Glue and have not had a problem since.

[expresso]

thanks for all the ideas !! - heres an update - i called tech support and got a nice lady which knew alot - first off - the toggle is soldered on the board and she did not recommend trying to unsolder etc, - other issue can happen if you make a mistake etc, - thats one -

with the Waterfall arm pads - they are made in a such a way - that the very front part sits on the arm post deeper in and you cant slide it back to use a different hole because its not flush - hard for me to explain - if you never had a water fall armpad - you cant vision what i am saying about it - i always had water fall arm pads - but with the new joystick etc, - just sits differently - the water fall pads sit out further past the post end - unlike the Reg. kind of arm pad dont past the front of the post - makes a difference

one thing at a time - i had a new pair of arm pads - which are the reg. kind - Not water fall models - they are full length but are thinner and flush on the bottom - with this type of arm pad - i could slide it back and forth and screw it in a different hole - turns out - i didnt need to do that - once i changed the arm pads - i was then able to move the joystick closer to the armpad and still am able to swing it away with out hitting the toggle switch - so that solved that issue - plus with the bracket i got from the Built for me dept. - they made me a bracket to bring the joystick in and up one inch both ways - so the joysticks sits in a better position now and i have more adjustments i can make - to fine tune it sort of speak -

now about the joystick knob - i went and tried again to take it off my old chair which has the knob i like - its called a Carrot top - its hard plastic instead of the rubber ones - for some reason - this time i tried to take it off and finally got it off -
its a very snug fit -

so i switch the knobs out - which worked out also - feels much better for me to control the chair - even the knob made a difference -

about the squeaks - i ran it by the tech when i had her on the phone - and she gave me pictures and something to try which makes sense - the p222 chair has two parts - the top part of the chair latches onto the bottom base - so its more prone to flexing for one - this area where you latch the chair together - there is a tension bolt there which i never knew and you cant see the bolt unless you unlatch the chair - since i cant get down there to do it - i never seen it till today from the picture she sent me -

the tech sent me a picture of it - now i know where to check - but her first suggestion was to just unlatch it and sort of remove the top part off and back on and latch it down again - could be just a hair out of wack - and can cause the squeaks -
if not - i can try adjusting the tension nut which can either tighten or loosen the latching part - and thats more or less the area where i hear the squeaks - cant be sure because sounds can be anywhere -

i would be very happy if a simple thing like that gets rid of the squeaks !! - would be great - now i just have to wait for when the Tech comes back to me to fix the front forks - i can have him do that and then i know for sure -

i had him check my forks and they both have a little play in them - the right side more - i hear the right side make noise - cant be right - he will get some spacers and washers - to replace - slowly coming together now - work in progress -

i didnt expect to have to do all this with a new chair - but thats how it is if you want to fine tune it to your needs etc, -

[malamar]

Many thanks espresso for indirecty finding solutions for me also,,,, I have the same latch, but didn't know you can tevnsion it; after realizing that dismounting chair to put in a normal car trunk was more of a "desiderata" than reality, I even thought to take solder the frame to gain rigidity and " peace of ears"

Pay you a cappuccino

[Burgerman]

thanks for all the ideas !! - heres an update - i called tech support and got a nice lady which knew alot - first off - the toggle is soldered on the board and she did not recommend trying to unsolder etc, - other issue can happen if you make a mistake etc, - thats one -

Shes retarded. Theres no need to unsolder. It fits the casing from the inside... You just undo the thing externally and pull.

[ex-Gooserider]

If the pod is like mine, (a "QTRONIX" which appears to be a Sunrise rebrand of a PG Pilot +) there is a center off, momentary double throw toggle switch on the left rear face of the pod - pushing it down toggles the power on and off, pulling it up puts you in and out of the "mode select" function. There is a speed pot on the right rear face, with a label in the middle that says what the switch does. This configuration does NOT show in the PG pages on the Pilot, so it may be a Sunrise special build. (The controller it plugs into on my chair is definitely a Pilot +)

The switch is a fairly standard size panel mount, with a rubber boot / nut holding it on the outside. It would be possible to take the nut off and push the switch into the pod, but that would leave a big hole in need of protection against rain, etc... I would also be worried about the switch bouncing around in the pod, potentially shorting against other stuff (the switch connections are NOT insulated, and the joystick can is metal...) or getting toggled unintentionally. I would NOT advise doing that.

It might be a challenge to find a smaller (and weatherproof) switch that would fit the hole, but I'd try replacing it. If the switch isn't actually using, I'd verify the wiring connections and then remove the switch entirely and properly insulate the ends of the wires that went to it...

Of course this may be moot since the OP sounds like he may have already solved it by switching armrest cushions...

ex-Gooserider

[expresso]

Yes - i have resolved it - but i understand what your saying -- the joystick i needed to adjust is the Pilot plus - the Qtronix is on my old chair which i didnt have a problem with -

either way - i think its good now - i have to ride to test it for sure - but feels much better now - i understand what you are saying - to loosen the nut and push the toggle in the joystick housing - then plug the hole - that would work if i really needed to remove it with out opening the case to unsolder - you would have to hope it can stay put once you do that and not bang around in there as you ride - its always a risk - i try to work around things first which wont affect my chair - if my joystick broke for some reason - and its because i took it apart etc, - or even if the Tech did - would be a problem - to get it replaced - with insurance - and would take time !!! -

but thats a good solution with out really taking it apart etc, and can be put back again easily -

i will find out later today - go out for a ride to test it -

thanks -

[LROBBINS]

How strong is your hand? To make (especially miniature and sub-mini) bat-handle toggle switches harder to operate and so that a more deliberate action is needed, I often just cut off half the handle (dremel-type cut-off disc) and smooth the edges. Another "standard" possibility is a switch cover: these just fit under the mounting nut and make it so that you have to lift the cover to work the switch. Requires dexterity, but often used where safety requires that you avoid inadvertent operation. Take a look at some general electronics catalog: Farnell or RS in Europe, Newark, Allied or DigiKey in the U.S. Ciao, Lenny (BTW, Newark and Allied are actually the same companies as Farnell and RS, though I don't remember which corresponds to which. Anything that you can order from Farnell you can also order from their U.S. sibling and vice versa. Same for RS. Everything is multinational these days, and unless you're told otherwise it's likely that the actual product has been made in China or some other third-world country. e.g. Curtis controllers are actually Techart General Electric).

[expresso]

i dont actually use this toggle switch - i do see how it can come in handy later on for me - its easier because its closer - etc, - but i dont use it right now - i had no choice with joysticks when i ordered the chair - if i wanted the speed knob - it came with the toggle also -

a friend mentioned that also - to cut it down - and just leave a little bit to make it useable if needed - and if all else didnt work - i would have had the tech do that very easily - but i feel its ok now - i do for sure once i start riding the chair outside

i need to be in a good position holding that knob - so i can weave in and out of people on the sidewalks here in the city - i use the streets alot - but have to get on and off at times - all depends on traffic etc, - holding that joystick correctly makes riding so much easier - faster and safer for everyone - if anyone lives in a city - you know how people walk - never in a straight line !!! - everyone is too busy on there smartphones - texting - etc, - no one is actually looking where they are walking -

then they walk sideways left to right etc, - you have to guess there next move if you want to get around and keep moving - i will try to get some pics - to post -

[Burgerman]

Hi res, short skirt, blonde about 25? Cant wait!

If careful you can swerve and land them on your lap...

[expresso]

Ok here are a few pics - from the pic - it may seem as if the toggle hits when you swing it away - but it dosnt - its just the angle of the picture - i got it closer enough where it clears the toggle - any closer - it will hit -

the bracket Sunrise made was perfect - brings the joystick in making it flush with the armpad - before it would stick out some past the armpad - and was way too low for me even with the highest adjustment on the swing arm -

now if you notice i had to actually lower the swing arm where it gets mounted - to level it out for me - also you can see the Carrot top knob -

[expresso]

one more -

[expresso]

Ok - here is the new chair with the Waterfall armpad - if you notice how the armpad goes further past the armpost you screw it too - you dont even see the end of the armpost with the Waterfull armpad in place - you can see the joystick is much lower also and sticks out a little past the armpad - which you cant see in this picture - and the rubber knob -

this is before picture - if you look at After pictures - which i just posted - this is the way it should arrive from the beginning -

[Burgerman]

Well if it was mine I would take the pod to bits, and swap over the speed/switch with each other.

If that wasnt possible for some odd reason, then I would buy a bung for the hole, tape up the switch to be sure it couldnt short anything, and leave it in the bottom of the pod. And reassemble. Ten mins work max. No need to solder or do anything destructive. Theres room in there to do this easily. And i am braver than most. So would likely drill a hole elsewhere and fit the switch someplace else. Likely its a 12mm hole. Rubber bungs (waterproof) or black nylon ones are available easily.

[expresso]

well now that i got the joystick in a better position - the speed knob and toggle is fine - i use my pinkie finger more or less to control the speed knob -
and it is easier for me to use the toggle to turn it on etc, i can do either way - but since i have it in a better spot - its ok now

i just need to ride around a bit and decide if i like it at this height or raise it one notch - the joystick arm -

and play around with the program more now that i have the joystick in its final position -

[Burgerman]

Whatever works!

Its all just nuts and bolts. The important thing is that unlike the wider disabled world, those on here tend to find a solution one way or another! And you did.

[expresso]

always good to share - you never know what will work or not - and who done it already etc,

i be really happy if i work the squeaks out of this thing - work in progress - takes time - have to have help etc, - but if you keep at it -

will work out - plus with help from others on here - helps alot

[ex-Gooserider]

Looks like you made things work, though I'm surprised how long that toggle looks, though it may just be the picture. As a comparison, the toggle on my pod is only about one inch from the pod surface to the tip of the rubber boot... Also I'm surprised there isn't a boot on the switch, as most switches like that don't have much water-proofing around the handle.

The other thing I noticed from the pictures that is a bit off topic, is the battery charger - it looks like one of the old Lester transformer style units - as opposed to the newer "switching supply" type. If so, you are not doing your batteries any good - the Lester style units are way obsolete because they don't do a good job of voltage regulation and tend to overcharge the batteries if plugged in for to long...

The newer "switch-mode" type units aren't great, but they are less damaging than the Lesters. The big problem with the new style units is that you don't have any idea exactly what the charge voltages are. Usually they are set at a compromise value that sort of works for all lead battery types, but doesn't really treat any of them right.

I'd strongly suggest reading some of Burgerman's articles on the main site about the care and feeding of lead acid batteries in order to get the most life out of them.

ex-Gooserider

[expresso]

yeah for the most part - i want to try a few different things to fine tune it still -- i think i want it just a bit closer - - so i have to try working with the armpad to see how it works - i will slide it back a little and see if thats better - raise the joystick one notch on the swing arm - and i am thinking of turning the armpad around so the wider part is on the inside of the chair near me more rather than outside - this will give me more room for to swing the arm and clear the toggle - the toggle seems to hit at the very tip of the arm pad as you swing it out and back - or just leave it as it - i rode it for a while - i think i will try a few different things before settling on one of them -

but its much better than when i got the chair - so its close - yeah that toggle is a bit thinner and longer - no rubber booth compared to my Qtronix toggle which was shorter - thicker and booted - was angled more up -

Now about the charger - i am not a tech. about all the ins and outs of chargers etc, - i will just say my experince and what i feel works best at least for me - so far - - i have always had a leaster beach top heavy charger - first one was 5 amp -

slow for me but i kept it and used it overnight all the time - then i wanted a small compact charger to carry with me when i go out - so i ended up buying a Shauer model - something like that - small compact - works at 7 amp - was perfect size so i got that one for backup when i am out - and it came in handy one day when i had a loaner chair - R4000 with 8mph motors - but they died so fast - i think the batteries were shot in that chair - i had to recharge outside - it works- but barely got me home because batteries must have been dead -

ok - i started to use the new compact charger - and what i realized is when i used the new switching charger - it charged fast - but i noticed when i was out - the greens on my chair went out much faster also - so i started to wonder - and what i did was - next time i charged - i used the compact one again - when it said it was full - steady green light - i took it out and plugged in my big charger again - and according to the lester charger - it was only 80% full - and i keep charging till its full takes another hour or two at 8mp when its 80% full -

and i tried this a few times over - and its always the same - when i go all the way full with the lester - chair lasts much longer outside - - i also have another 8mp switching charger which i got from the Vendor - its not as compact as my Shauer model - and i tried the same test - and it does the same thing - they all charge up to about 80% full - where the bench top heavy lester - keeps going - and i notice it when i use the chair -

so for me - those switching types have not worked fully - they work fine - faster etc, but i never get a full charge with them - so i keep them as backups - the small compact model i keep in my bag on my chair - and the other at home in closet if i ever need it - i still have the old lester 5 amp which i use on my old chair to charger every week or so - i havnt used that chair since i got my new one -


that charger you see in the picture is the one being sold from Sunrise - it was on my order form when i got the chair - they had a compact model also - but i went for this one because i dont trust those switching models based on my experience -
it just sits there so i am not worried about how heavy it is - but all the vendors will get you the switching models now if you dont ask or push for the bench top model -

they may be better switching models out there etc, - but i already have 4 chargers in total now - not going to keep buying chargers till i find the good switching model that would go full charge - i have two lesters now - 5amp and the new one 8amp - two switching models - one 8amp and the small one i carry at 7amp - unless i was able to use a faster model but still able to plug it in the chair to charge - then i would consider it - but since i cant go past 8amp plugged in the joystick - i am good with the 4 i have -

[LROBBINS]

Try this test. Connect one of your compact chargers, but let it run all night instead of disconnecting when the green light comes on. Now see what the Lester says. That green light is set at 80-90%, which is when the unit should switch to float charge (actually, would be better if it went to 99% first, but that would require having exactly the right voltage for the battery and the mfrs use a "compromise" voltage more-or-less acceptable for all types of Pb batteries). It will continue to slowly charge at the reduced voltage after that, however, and should come up to full charge without the risk of over-charge that one has with the Lester. Ciao, Lenny

[Burgerman]

Yes, ignore the green ready light. That is NOT the end of charge. Leave as long as you possibly can. A month is not too long. It takes about 10 hours to fully charge a lead battery. The old lester charger though will lie. Because instead of sensing voltage and current, it uses a timer too. So will apear to be charging even if the battery is accepting no charge.

The old heavy charger is an antique. It is really best to dispose of it, even though you think it works "better"... Unless you know EXACTLY what it is doing.

The small 3 stage chargers you had were generic chargers and again they were quite likely to be charging incorrectly, and telling you the battery was charged long before it was.

__________________

YOU MUST match the charge algo to the exact battery you are charging. Theres no such thing as an automatic do all charger.

A gel MK for eg needs any amps (5 to 30 Amp is fine with bigger being faster) and 14.1v (28.2v) CV stage. It should STOP charging when amps fall to around 100 to 500th of C. C is capacity. NOT EARLIER. Than it should sit at 13.6v to 13.7v indefinitely.

An AGM battery needs 5 to 100 amps, at 14.4v (28.8V) CV stage. And should stop at the same 100th to 500th of C. NOT EARLIER. Then sit at 13.5v float forever.

An Odyssey or other pure lead should be charged at thehighest rate preferably, no upper limit. And at 14.7v until 100thC to 1000thC for best cycle life. And a 13.5 float forever.

These things matter. So you MUST know exactly what its doing.

[expresso]

Try this test. Connect one of your compact chargers, but let it run all night instead of disconnecting when the green light comes on. Now see what the Lester says. That green light is set at 80-90%, which is when the unit should switch to float charge (actually, would be better if it went to 99% first, but that would require having exactly the right voltage for the battery and the mfrs use a "compromise" voltage more-or-less acceptable for all types of Pb batteries). It will continue to slowly charge at the reduced voltage after that, however, and should come up to full charge without the risk of over-charge that one has with the Lester. Ciao, Lenny

i can do that to test it and just to know for my knowledge - best way to do that is the summer time for me since thats when i go out for the 12 to 15 mile rides - but even if it matched it and i am able to last all day - it would mean i have to leave it on my chair for much longer time - i keep it in my bag on my chair - because its compact - and seems pretty fast - i like to keep one charger which i use all the time in my room as you see in the picture - just like to keep it simple

but i can try that just to know for myself - both switching chargers i have say the same thing - when green light is steady green - its fully charged -

i looked up my lester charger i am using and it does say i believe you can leave it plugged in - wont over charge - etc, - if i am remember correctly - thats what it said from the manufacturer -

[expresso]

Yes, ignore the green ready light. That is NOT the end of charge. Leave as long as you possibly can. A month is not too long. It takes about 10 hours to fully charge a lead battery. The old lester charger though will lie. Because instead of sensing voltage and current, it uses a timer too. So will apear to be charging even if the battery is accepting no charge.

The old heavy charger is an antique. It is really best to dispose of it, even though you think it works "better"... Unless you know EXACTLY what it is doing.

The small 3 stage chargers you had were generic chargers and again they were quite likely to be charging incorrectly, and telling you the battery was charged long before it was.

__________________

YOU MUST match the charge algo to the exact battery you are charging. Theres no such thing as an automatic do all charger.

A gel MK for eg needs any amps (5 to 30 Amp is fine with bigger being faster) and 14.1v (28.2v) CV stage. It should STOP charging when amps fall to around 100 to 500th of C. C is capacity. NOT EARLIER. Than it should sit at 13.6v to 13.7v indefinitely.

An AGM battery needs 5 to 100 amps, at 14.4v (28.8V) CV stage. And should stop at the same 100th to 500th of C. NOT EARLIER. Then sit at 13.5v float forever.

An Odyssey or other pure lead should be charged at thehighest rate preferably, no upper limit. And at 14.7v until 100thC to 1000thC for best cycle life. And a 13.5 float forever.

These things matter. So you MUST know exactly what its doing.

http://www.battery-chargers.com/catalog/page6.pdf

this is the charger i keep as a backup in my backpack on my chair - - - i use MK gel batteries - 24's - those are the batteries the vendors use and its the MK brand - thats all i know - about 70ah or 75ah - i seen both before - not sure which i have in my chair now - or which they will replace them with - they just reorder by the size and brand - what ever they get - i get - i can ask when its time -

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-cha ... 91-62.html -- same one - i have -

this one is the other one i got from the vendor - not as compact - but lighter for than the lester -

http://www.1800wheelchair.com/asp/view- ... uct_id=818

those two chargers say the same thing - when light is green steady - battery is fully charged -

i dont even care if the lester keeps going after the others say its full already - i am not going by those indications alone - but when i use the chair - i can see the difference - when i been using those switching models - my chair died sooner - i lost my green ALOT sooner - but when i use the big lester - they last alot longer when i am riding -

thats the only reason i feel that the switching models that i have - are not up to it - not fully charging - or if they are - they are not lasting when i use the chair - so either way for me - if the switching models gave me the same distance - time etc, - i wouldnt care which one i use to charge my chair -

i understand everyones point - but it dosnt translate to real life usage to me - if you were me - you would do the same thing - if charger -A- gives you 5 hours of usage - - Charger B gives you 10 -- you would use Charger- B -- just an example -

Can you give me a link to a Good Switching Charger you can recommend which i can use on my chairs pilot plug - with out changing or adding any extra wires or plugs etc, - i want to use the chairs charging port - the batteries are MK Gel 24's - t

if you can - i just like to look them over - i would need the XLR connector - or at least if i can add an XLR Adapator -

i cant give you any more battery specs -

thanks -

[Burgerman]

Heres the problem. 2 problems...

1st link. Finishing voltage: 2.28 volts per cell float; 2.4 volts per
cell finishing.

So that charger is charging your gel batteries to 14.4v per battery. That will HALF the battery service life according to MK. They need to be charged to 14.1v MAX at room temperature. The lower float voltage is correct. That same charger has the correct charge voltages for an AGM battery. But it does NOT say at what point it ends charge. This will inevitably be too soon, leaving your battery about 90 percent full at the gree ready light. It goes on after this at a lower float voltage of 13.67v That will continue to top up the battery, unseen, but may take another 3 to 6 hours. If you do not FULLY charge the battery will become sulphated and havce less capacity.

2nd link - Absorption Voltage 29.2 +/- 0.2 V

WAY WAY too high for a gel battery, expect a very short service life and high resistance (low power) after a few months. And again no indication of cut off voltage.

3rd link, 24 Volt, 8 Amp auto charger for all lead-acid battery types - GEL/AGM/Wet

Such a charger doesent exist. These generally use 14.4v (too high for gel) and again no clue about cut off voltage. So it too may well undercharge.

The old lester MAY charge at the correct voltage but isnt capable of sensing the cut off point, so just keeps going on a timer based system at whatever voltage its designer set. Some are correct for gel. Some not. But it may also charge at full voltage for too long, eating electrolyte, causing positive plate grid corrosion. So its still best to get rid. The fact that you think it gives a better charge may be innacurate. The only real way to charge a battery is as I stated in the previous post, which is exactly what MK also say.

[Burgerman]

i understand everyones point - but it dosnt translate to real life usage to me - if you were me - you would do the same thing - if charger -A- gives you 5 hours of usage - - Charger B gives you 10 -- you would use Charger- B -- just an example -

Not at all. I would use the proper tool and MEASURE capacity, and would measure what each charger is doing. And would use the one doing it correctly. Even if that means getting another better one. Batteries are too expensive for guess work.

Your charger in link 1 above comes closest. But charges at too high voltage, and cuts off too early. But it does still charge AFTER you see it says end. So let it continue for another 5 hours. Thats what the old lester is doing anyway.

[expresso]

i get your point - but you are able to do all this testing to get it just right - and your knowlegable and know excatly what you are looking for - in charger specs - etc, ---

so the first link is the small compact charger i carry for a backup if i need when out side -- its been used only once - when i had a loaner that died on me -

if i understand you correctly - if i were to charge with that one - i would have to leave it connected for a few more hours after the green light goes steady - ?

i think the secound link is the same charger as the first - i may be wrong -

- on the lester one i am using now - it has a switch to charger either Gel or Lead Acid - so it does charge differently if you use that switch - it does state to NOT charge with the switch on Lead Acid if you are using Gel - will kill them very very shortly -

i will try to get more specs on this lester charger i am using now from the manufacturer when i get a chance to make a few calls - i am very curious to know

all the specs so you can know for sure if i post them -

can you tell me what excatly are the specs i need to find out about the lester charger ? specific ones so i can ask for them -

also - when my batteries are dead and dont go the distance any longer - i will get them replaced by insurance - at no charge to me - so i never got so involved with the correct specs - chargers etc, - but i know if i had to pay out of pocket for them- would be wise to use the right charger for the battery for longer - better life and performance -

thanks -

[expresso]

ok i checked on line to find my charger -

these are the specs - not sure if its complete specs -

here they are - http://www.lesterelectrical.com/search/pdf/01577_M.PDF

i checked the MK site also - and the chargers they recommend for there batteries - shows my charger -

http://www.mkbattery.com/content_contai ... =chargers#


12090 - model - its my charger only has a meter on it - mines dosnt -

it has 3 chargers they show for wheelchairs - two are lester - and the other one is the other one i have - which is switching model i think -

now i am more confused-

[expresso]

i ran across this model -

what do you think of this brand - etc, -- the 8 amp model

http://soneil.com/products.html

[Burgerman]

http://soneil.com/Completesets/2416SRF.021402.pdf

Always the same problem. not enough detail about charge data. 14.4v (28.8) cv stage, good for AGM and bad for gel batteries. And no idea at what point it stops charging. As I said before, the info you need isnt there.

The hyperion I use for eg charges to 100th C. I know this because they wrote the algo to my instructions! And you can see it do so on screen. So if I choose say 28.20v, 50Ah capacity, 13.50v float, and 12Amp charge from a mass of options then this is what I will get. Super accurate And correct for MK gel.

If I tell it it is charging a 62Ah battery, at 14.7v, then this is also what happens. It maintains 14.70v until it sees the amps fall away naturally to exactly 0.620 of an amp. THAT is 100th C. Then it goes on to float. So whatever float voltage I chose in the setup. 13.5v say, indefinitely, pulsed after some time to maintain and complete the charge.

Theres no point linking to a charger unless we can see exactly what it will do, and also say what battery type you are charging with it. Nandol sends links to endless chargers. We still have no idea what any of them are actually going to do! Anything that claims to "automatically" charge both gel, and AGM doesent do it correctly.

[LROBBINS]

At one time I measured the outputs of a Soneil 8 Amp and I think that I posted something about that on these forums. Perhaps you can find it by searching "Soneil". My recollection, for what it's worth, is that the Soneil had a CV stage at too low a voltage for Odyssey, and too high for gel - probably OK for most AGM, and that it's green light came on too soon. However, it's settings are not digital, but a couple trimpots, but they have little usable range. It's a pretty typical mobility "compromise" charger. I too am in a situation where the Hyperion is not usable: too many people who have responsibility for my daughter can't go beyond plug and play. That's why I ordered a 110-230V input, 24V, 25A output charger from China programmed (almost) to my specs for the Odysseys. I say "almost" because it transitions to float too soon, at ca 1 Amp, BUT it's a float with tapering pulses to CV until current drops to near 0 so overnight it does get the battery truly full. Obviously, you can't plug one of these into an XLR plug! Ciao, Lenny