WheelchairDriver

I am looking for a spare bearing.



I have looked on ebay, but I do not know how to do the search.


P.D. I do not want to change the whole wheel.

Measure inside diameter. Measure outside diameter.

If its say 24 x 12mm then search for stainless sealed bearing. Pick correct size.

OK.

Thanks Burgerman!

Alternatively, if you look on the bearing sides - you may need to use a glass, or play with lights, there should be a set of numbers and letters on it. You may find it easier to read on the side of the bearing that faces into the wheel and isn't as exposed to the weather and abuse that messes up the numbers on the outside...

Any decent bearing supplier will be able to translate those numbers into the size - this is preferable to using measurements as it can be easy to get the measurements wrong, especially as some of the imperial and metric sizes can be very close... If you must do measurements use a caliper or micrometer, not just a ruler...

Also in addition to the size, you need to look at the seal on the bearings - you definitely want a sealed bearing as that will do at least some good at keeping the crap out of it... There are two main styles of seals you will commonly see - rubber and metal. Rubber is a little better in terms of waterproofing, but the metal shields will work (it looks like the bearing in your photo is metal shield)

ex-Gooserider

Technically rubber sealed is sealed. Keeps grease in, water out. If any leak happens its time to replace.

(metal) Shielded bearings are used normally in things like engines and gearboxes as they allow some oil/oil mist in, but keep large amounts of oil out. At high RPMs too much oil causes the bearings to skid, and to develop flat spots or other issues. The shields prevent that while allowing lubrication. Where they are used under a lot of oil, or at really high RPM they are preloaded with a spring or wave washer so that they cannot skid. Like in my model jet engines at 165,000rpms. Those run in a kerosene mist.

The other place that metal shielded bearings are used is in electric motors or skate wheels where efficiency counts. Because they are not grease packed and sealed they spin more freely. And dont skid. Powerchair manufacturers use these because it helps range by a miniscule amount. And they dont care that they fail. A rubber shielded greased for life one is much better for longevity. And a stainless one better still. Since most die of water ingress and corrosion.

So for slow turning wheels turning in the outside wet world, greased for life rubber sealed bearings are way better. Same for the alternator on your car, where they are loaded by the belt so do not skid even at the 12k rpm your alternator can turn at. And they keep the water and dirt out so last well.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6000-2RS-6000 ... p1V2gAE7Qw

Stainless, sealed. That axle looks like 10mm? If so you probably need 10x26x8 from the drop down.

You could fit these but they wont last long. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6000-10x26x8 ... 0010.m2109

Axle bolt is M8 assuming that wheel is from a salsa m

So must be a 12mm axle?

Then: 12x28x8 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6000-2RS-6000 ... p1V2gAE7Qw

6001 2RS Stainless.

The bolt is the axle

In which case likely:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6000-2RS-6000 ... 100623.m-1

8x22x7 608 2RS

Hello again.

I looked at the bearing numbering.


> 608 ZZ JBS ABEC 5


I am going to search.

you dont want zz you want rs.

I don't understand you.

ZZ = metal sheilded. That isnt lubricated, lets water, dust, fibres in, so corrodes and wears out fast.
RS = rubber SEALED and grease packed for life. So lubricated and keeps water, dirt, etc out. Lasts much longer.

Stainless steel, so they dont corrode.

608 because thats the physical size you need. So it fits.

So you want to search ebay, 608 RS, stainless! And buy.

EG these are ideal, but very cheap. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/608-2RS-STAIN ... XQHDlRb2it

Will fit, and last much longer! Although some from a named brand well known may be better still.

When I enlarged the illustration, the bearing shown is metal shielded with is inferior to rubber sealed for this application. The others are quite correct, stainless steel rubber sealed ball bearings are what you want.
I just did a similiar wheel (front wheel on my folding TravelScoot). I found a metal tube between the bearings inside the wheel... the metal tube is the same ID as the bearing so you can't push the bearing out "as is". This was my first one so I fully disassembled the wheel... only realizing afterward, I didn't need to.
Had I just loosened the wheel halves enough that I could move the center tube off center, I'd have been able to use a tool to push the first bearing out pushing through the opposite bearing.
The used bearing came out easily. I replaced the opposite bearing with strong hand pressure, reinstalled the center tube, pushed the second bearing. I put a dummy axle in place & retightened the wheel halves.

It was intimidating to start but was much easier than I expected. Good thing because I have 2 more wheels on this Travel Scoot & my spare TS to do after.

I loosened the bolts holding the wheel halves for a rear wheel. I was able to move the center tube enough to pop the opposite ball bearing out with a few light taps with a hammer... the the center tube followed it to the floor. This wheel has steel seats. I installed a the first new bearing, placed the center tube with a dummmy axle & then the second bearing with a few light taps of the hammer. Having done so, I tightened the bolts on the wheel halves. I see one stop nut has lost it's insert. The one issue I see is my made up dummy axle is American sized... and the metric center hole has the center tube spacer not perfectly centered. Usng the actual axle would have been better. I'll try the axle & if necessary loosen the wheel halves again to true it. Learning all the time.

I did have to loosen the bolts holding the wheel halves so I could use my dummy axle tool to temporarily install the actual axle while I tightened the wheel halves.
The bearing identifier numbers were not on both sides of the bearings. I installed the bearings with the numbers out so the parts can be identified before disassembly...

I have had this issue stopped.
Now I am going to solve it.


I looked at the numbering (again) of the bearings.


Right wheel.> 608 ZZ JBS ABEC 5
Left wheel > 508ZZ or S08ZZ


I'm confused.

Forget those letters etc.

You need 608 2RS in stainless steel.
They are correct size, 8x22x7mm and rubber sealed, and grease packed for life.
They will last 10x longer than the nasty steel metal shieded ones fitted as stock.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/608-2RS-STAI ... SwznNbI59H

What do you think of these...?

> https://www.ebay.es/itm/10-x-roja-cubie ... Sw3mFbG2~O

> https://www.ebay.es/itm/10-x-roja-cubie ... 3004596404

I cant tell, you keep linking to pages in martian or venusion. What does it say?

Thy appear to be steel so will corrode? Cant tell. And too cheap if you get 8 for that price, dont speak alien so cannot know and targeted at skaters with fancy colours etc so likely not very good. But I really cant tell!

Spanish is close enough to Italian that I can basically make out what's in those links. Burgerman is right, those are regular steel bearings and you really should use stainless steel (INOX in Italian) bearings on a wheelchair. With regular steel, as soon as any water gets in, whether by running through a puddle or just from condensation, the bearing will start to go bad. So search again specifically for double-sealed stainless steel bearings. Here are some links as examples for size 608 bearings:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/10-Cuscinetto-a-sfere-SS-608-2RS-8-x-22-x-7-mm-acciaio-inox-no-ruggine/253416680817?hash=item3b00cfad71:g:FsAAAOSwuMFUlDPX

https://www.ebay.it/itm/S608-2RS-8x22x7mm-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Bearing-Pack-of-10/282940350796?hash=item41e08f214c:g:xAsAAOSw3upa4aG3

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10-PCS-S608-2RS-Bearings-8x22x7-mm-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Bearings-S608-RS/32731556374.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.61.573e43c6fihqfs&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10340_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_10302_10846_10843_10059_100031_524_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_35,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=65a7a878-762a-4e0c-a897-cd22cdee21c8-9&algo_pvid=65a7a878-762a-4e0c-a897-cd22cdee21c8&transAbTest=ae803_1&priceBeautifyAB=0

Are you sure? All my UK invacare chairs (all 2 of them!) are metric on EVERY bolt and built in germany.

Burgerman wrote:Are you sure? All my UK invacare chairs (all 2 of them!) are metric on EVERY bolt and built in germany.

there are a few oddball bits on some invacare chairs that are imperial

How about those bearings?

Burgerman wrote:How about those bearings?

i think thats a sunrise castor so will be metric.

Shirley: Looks like a INVACARE wheel .

Burgerman wrote:Are you sure? All my UK invacare chairs (all 2 of them!) are metric on EVERY bolt and built in germany.

I don't know about modern Invacare stuff, but all my old US manufacture Invacare project chairs used US / inch hardware on anything except parts brought in from elsewhere...

This is very common on a lot of US manufactured stuff, and can be rather annoying as it means you need tools in both systems to work on anything, and often have to guess at whether any given bolt will be inch or metric....

ex-Gooserider

Only if you want cheap steel double z sheilded bearings that corrode and fail as per original.

We are talking about replacing with stainless steel, double rubber sealed RS greased for life to prevent future failures.