Gnomatic wrote:Burgerman wrote:Ideally on the chair, where 200A can be demanded you need 10sqmm and it needs to be marine, tinned, and thin hard insulation.
Silicone is used by the hobby industry because it means the cables can be smaller, lighter, more flexible, because it doesn't melt. But that stuff is easily torn, or ripped and you don't want silicone cable on the chair itself.
Hmm .... I used 8AWG silicon cabling on my chair. Its short and has a an Anderson on one end which plugs into the Anderson on the stock cabling the feeds the R-net power module.
My chair had a 150A Minifuse in stock config, which I replaced with a 120A push to trip breaker when I installed my pack. I'm ~220lbs and I've been pretty aggressive climbing steep hills, going offroad etc. Did a lot of hiking on bridle and ATV trails the last couple months. I never tripped the breaker once, and I'm pretty confident I won't going forward, unless I manually do it.
As I mentioned elsewhere, the 10mm^2 that BM uses is about = AWG 7, which doesn't exist, so in the US we need to do either AWG 6 or 8... I use 6, but 8 will probably work for most users. AWG 6 is really only needed if you are doing hard core sports or other demanding uses.
I think silicone wire is usable, but ONLY if it is well protected by being enclosed in some sort of braid or other housing. That said, my preference is slightly different from BM's - I've tried the tinned marine stuff and while it isn't bad, I didn't like it as much as I do welding cable. Welding cable is a bit more flexible, and I think has more robust insulation (think about how much abuse the cables get in a welding shop - hot stuff, getting walked on, dragged around on the floor and so on... It isn't tinned, but I don't think that is a big deal...
ex-Gooserider
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