Burgerman wrote:Try with motor compensation reduced to 40mOhm. Everything should be smoother, and you are light so should be OK.
Burgerman wrote:120A one looks OK. You might get a little more speed out of it if you set motor> voltage from 21.something to 23.5 though. Although this works much better with lithium.
Burgerman wrote:Its better but not dialed in. I still make adjustments and sometimes change things quite drastically as I realise what is wrong YEARS afterwards. It takes longer than a few days to get it right. Esp as you become more capable, and start throwing it about. Then fine details are all important. So you better keep that dongle!
ICEUK wrote:glad you got it dialled in, I have got to do my FWD puma, that will be fun, I nicknamed the chair the "fish tailing bastard"
learning all the time
The new chair is physically identical to the first one.
woodygb wrote:The new chair is physically identical to the first one.
Exactly the same motors ?
Burgerman wrote:Set turn accel, and decel to max. And min turn acc and dec. Anything else leaves a load of delay in the steering input, and reduce turn rate or speed until comfortable. Or it will never hit a doorway.
The control situation you experience is physics. You cant fix it. It because you are using front wheel drive with casters on the rear which is an unstable configuration. Just like throwing a paper aeroplane backwards. Of expecting a flag to be able to point upwind. Its the reason I wouldn't ever want a front drive chair. Hoverounds are for older people that go slowly mostly indoors.
But looking at the position of your joystick I think you have other issues to sort out irst. Please read the first few posts here. Carefully!
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