DWIZ-ADAPT

[Dan]

ive got a couple i think

How much are they?

woodygb if I tried to make that I would probably burn the house down.

[GlennGlenn]

Hey guys, anyone in blighty got an assembled Anubis interface or a real ADAPT, to sell, rent or lend.
Even a vero version, blank Anubis board or any other combination would do.
Cheers

[woodygb]

I can and have constructed vera versions.

Which EXACT Dynamic make/model are you attempting to program?

[GlennGlenn]

That sounds like a great option if you don't mind doing it.
DK-REMD01 and DK-PMB40
Please let me know what cost and lead time.
Thanks

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
Thanks for your response.
I have ordered the parts to cobble together your vero version.
I have read all your posts up to the corrected TX/RX and addition of R8, DZ2.
Glenn

[woodygb]

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
Do you know of anyone ever attempting to use the schematic of a DWIZ-ADAPT teardown earlier in this subject?.
I have contacted the user, but they have not logged in for some time.
Thanks
Glenn

[woodygb]

Woody
Do you know of anyone ever attempting to use the schematic of a DWIZ-ADAPT teardown earlier in this subject?.
I have contacted the user, but they have not logged in for some time.
Thanks
Glenn

I'm not sure what you mean....what is a "schematic of a DWIZ-ADAPT teardown"?

[GlennGlenn]

Sorry Woody
Post was earlier on this thread.

Re: DWIZ-ADAPT
Postby DSmidgit » 20 Apr 2016, 14:37
I created a schematic from the adapter and built it on a peice of vero board. Works great.

Glenn

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
Sorry for wasting your time.
The schematic is of a DK-ADAPT (Blue label) which is only for Shark.
I would still like to try the schematic as I have a shark.
I can't work out exactly what device the T1 2SC is or the value of R1.
Any ideas?
Glenn

[woodygb]

The schematic referenced here ... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4095&start=90#p118668 works just fine on a Shark.

[GlennGlenn]

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
I have reproduced your DWIZ-ADAPT vero version,
Please can you confirm the polarity of the 2 tant caps.
C2 obviously has its +ve end to the 24V supply via R5.
C1 seems to be inverted with +ve end to ground, is that correct?
Only asking in case it goes pop if wrong.
Thanks
Glenn

[woodygb]

The drawing I.M.O shows non-electrolytic cap symbols ... however If your cap has polarity then neg goes to gnd.

https://uk.farnell.com/wcsstore/Extende ... -types.jpg

[Dan]

Woody. Would you be able to make a programming lead for the invacare Dx2-REM550 system combined with a DWIZ to an XLR?

Or if simpler I already have a Dx2 programming lead but no DWIZ-ADAPT.

[woodygb]

Help me out by telling me ( pics are helpful ) what programming plugs the 2 systems have.

To help you ... programming via a Neutrik /XLR 3 Pin or 4 pin Molex requires a DWIZ-ADAPT.
IF the controller / joystick has a built in 5 pin Hirose then NO interface is needed... other than a RS232 - USB lead and 3 wires.

[Dan]

You did make a cable for me which is for a G90A thru a 5 pin din.
I have now bought a REM550 which as far as I know can work with the above programming cable but needs the DWIZ-ADAPT.

The REM550 only has a XLR input.

[woodygb]

OK...

Top right is a HOMEBREW "DWIZ-ADAPT" based on a electronic sketch supplied by Anubis... the other... top left is the Rhino 2 adapter.
...bottom left Hirose plug to RS232 ( DB9 ) & bottom right RS232 ( DB9 ) --USB cable using an FTDI Chip set .



You would want the top right of this pic.



viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5488&start=60#p119049

Price approx £30 for me to build one.

[Dan]

It kooks like the top right is a HOMEBREW "DWIZ-ADAPT" should do the trick.

I will send you a DM.

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
Thanks for the capacitor advice.
My kit will not connect to the controller. Program continuously looks for controller on COM 2, (changed from selected COM 10 as Wizard only likes COMs 1 to 9).

Everything seems to be okay up to the Anubis circuit.

Swapped TX/RX , swapped XLR pins 2/3 , triple checked layout

I did not have 10uF non polarized caps, I have tried 2X tantalum caps and 2 electrolytic caps, neither made any difference.
I couldn't find 9v2 zeners, have used 9v1, should they work?. Cathode sits at 9.4V and warms up.
All other components are identical to yours as is my vero layout, except for:

Your pic of the completed boxed pcb shows, i think, 2 leds and limiting resistors on the data lines, can you clarify?.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Glenn

[Irving]

@glenn may not be relevant but avoid COM ports 1 & 2 as these were dedicated hardware on original PCs and bios can sometimes play tricks on you even these days. I always start at COM3.

[GlennGlenn]

Thanks Irving
I had to use COM 2 as it was the only one below 10 that was not already allocated to something or other.
I will try to release another port in the 3 - 9 range and switch to that.

[woodygb]

Woody
Thanks for the capacitor advice.
My kit will not connect to the controller. Program continuously looks for controller on COM 2, (changed from selected COM 10 as Wizard only likes COMs 1 to 9).

Everything seems to be okay up to the Anubis circuit.

Swapped TX/RX , swapped XLR pins 2/3 , triple checked layout

I did not have 10uF non polarized caps, I have tried 2X tantalum caps and 2 electrolytic caps, neither made any difference.
I couldn't find 9v2 zeners, have used 9v1, should they work?. Cathode sits at 9.4V and warms up.
All other components are identical to yours as is my vero layout, except for:

Your pic of the completed boxed pcb shows, i think, 2 leds and limiting resistors on the data lines, can you clarify?.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Glenn

The led's where a whim...they just provided some visual indication of a signal.

9.1v Zeners is what I use.

What RS232-USB lead ...make / model / chipset ...are you using?

[GlennGlenn]

Irving
Moved to COM3, no luck.

Glenn

[Burgerman]

In device damager, at the top menu, choose SHOW HIDDEN DEVICES.

Those are all saved. Including unused com ports.

Go right down that device list, and delete or rather uninstall every greyed out unused hidden device.

That will free up all your comp ports UNLESS in actual use.

Reboot.

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
YP-05 USB /Serial adaptor I used for other projects already Arduino, ESP6266, Rfidler, etc.
Laptop running Windows 32/64.
Electric Mobility Powerchair with Dynamic DK-REMD01 and DK-PMB40.
Glenn

[woodygb]

Your serial adapter is TTL ...IT WILL NOT WORK.

You need to use a RS232 Serial - USB.

https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/215

You could buy one of these to convert the signal .

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RS232-MAX323 ... Swm5xcR1z-

[GlennGlenn]

Woody

I thought the DWIZ-ADAPT circuit was doing the level shifting/inversion.
I have ordered the board you mentioned.
Thanks again
Glenn

[woodygb]

It is shifting the weird Dynamic signal ...( which is a bit like TTL but at a much higher voltage ...hence the 9.2v zeners) ...to a RS232 signal.

[GlennGlenn]

Woody
Further to my question about the caps and theie orientation, I think that if a polarised capacitor is used for C1 its +ve must go to ground.
A negative voltage is taken from the Tx terminal (Rx) and stored in C1. The -ve is used for sending RS232 high from Rx rerminal (Tx).
This is a way of level matching the return -ve voltage to the received one irrespective of what shifting and combination is done by the rest of the adaptor before it goes to remote.
I think I should invert C1 before my RS3232 arrives, do you agree?
Glenn