RoboteQ GB Project

[Scooterman]

Lugs...

They're not real are they???

They look a different shade of pink to me???

[hank]

Lugs...

They're not real are they???

They look a different shade of pink to me???

WINGNUT

[ex-Gooserider]

Lugs...

I thought they were lift loops.....

ex-Gooserider

[stevelawiw]

My RoboTeq firmware saga.....

17/08/19 18:09

Hi can you tell me what’s going on with the firmware for this model range, I downloaded and installed HBL23XX-Overall-Firmware-Update-v20-052419 and got an overvault fault. When I installed the v18d firmware the controller worked again but, of course I can’t use any V2 features.
Can I use the HBL23xxA V2 firmware with my HBL2372?
Are you working on the HBL23XX V2 firmware, I noticed it’s been removed from the downloads page.

20/08/19 12:34

Unfortunately there is not a release for HBL23XX yet. And HBL23xxA is not compatible with your controller. Our engineering team is working on producing a firmware update for HBL23xx and we will notify you as soon as it is released. Could you please send me the results of UID and FID commands on your controller? To identify the exact controllers type.
 
I’m looking forward to your feedback,

20/08/19 14:33

Hi xxxxxxx, thanks for the reply.
Please see attachment for the returned values of the two commands.
In regard to the V2 firmware,  are you aware of HBL23XX-Overall-Firmware-Update-v20-052419.zip that I downloaded on 080219? I installed it and got an over volt fault, it was reading 96v no matter what input voltage I sent the controller.

22/08 10:02

Please try updating with the attached file. In case you come accross the same ovelvoltage error please contact with me in order to investigate further.
 
Looking forward to your feedback,

22/08 12:37

Hi xxxxxx I’ve installed the firmware but now the controller won’t autodetect my laptop.
The usb light is on and the status led is flashing twice so I think it’s the over vault fault again but I can’t use Roborun via usb.
What should I do now?

23/08 12:59

For starters I have to ask you to update to the latest Roborun+ Utility. When that is done the next step is to update the firmware to your controllers using RS232. I ask you that because it is the most stable way of upgrading the firmware. You should use an USB to RS232 adapter. Then ensure that you perform a power cycle by disconnecting the power supply for some time in order for the capacitors to drain. If after doing that the problem is still present, please get back to me to proceed to the next steps of troubleshooting.
 
Looking forward to your answer,

27/08 23:25

Hi xxxxxxx I have re-installed the latest Roborun from the website
I have connected the controller to pc using rs232 to usb lead
It connects with a green light in the bottom right of Roborun screen, but no controller model is shown and the box to select controller does not work.
On the Console tab I click ‘Update Controller via COM Port’ and select the firmware you supplied to me.
I click ‘Program’, the box ‘Checking the Controller’ is ticked
I then get an error ‘Device starting string not detected’
I did try the trick I read in the Forums about turning the controller off and on while the script was waiting for the device restart but it did not work.
 
I have attached a picture of the firmware update error

28/08 12:06

In that case try connecting to your controller via usb. Then open device manager and check if your pc identifies the controller and how exactly it is beeing appeared. If is appeared as StmDFU or similar that means that your device is in dfu mode and you should open dfu loader manualy (type dfu loader in search bar). If that's not the case we should arrange a teamviewer session to see what's going on. 
 
Please try the below solution and keep me informed regarding your results,

28/08 12:48

Hi xxxxxxx yes that is the case, it’s in DFU mode, but how do I get it out of DFU Mode? I re loaded the firmware, got a success message but when I quit the DFU Loader, turned off the controller, waited 10 mins and turned it back on the controller is still in DFU Mode?
I read somewhere that it is not possible to load an earlier firmware once V2 has been loaded, is this the case? Can I go back to V1.8 for a while so I can get on with my project?

Found this posted by Griffin Baker 5 years ago :-

“The controller will go in DFU mode if it boots and immediately crashes 5 times in a row.

Crashing after boot typically happens when a faulty script is loaded in flash and the configuration is set to script auto start.

Connect the PC via serial port and run Hyperterminal or similar terminal emulation software.

If after reset, you see Starting ... followed by FID= xxxx and then Starting ... again, this is likely to get a script crash scenario. Try sending !r 0 immediately after the FID=xxx and before the next Starting ...

If Starting ... only is repeating, then press and hold the w key. The controller will display IAP and the letter C every second. You will then be able to upload new firmware/”
 
I have never gotten around to even looking at scripting so its nothing to do with that so the firmware must be crashing? If you agree this is the case should I attempt to go back to V1.8?
I’ll await your reply before doing anything else

28/08 14:22

As it seems the firmware didn't update correctly, that's why you are still in DFU mode. First of all we should eliminate bad connectivity causes. Try using a different usb cable and/or a different pc. If firmware v.2.0 isn't able to be loaded the same will happen with v.1.8.
 
Looking forward to your reply,

28/08 15:38

Hi xxxxxx, I’ve used a new usb cable and using DFU mode reinstalled the firmware. Now the usb light is flashing and won’t connect to the pc, but the status light I think is flashing the idle pattern, but I can’t connect Roborun the rs232 won’t connect either. I can’t see a usb connection in device manager. I have tried the same on my old win 7 laptop with no difference
 
I await your reply
28/08 16:13

,
 I followed once again our conversation and I figure out that there has been one mistake with the firmware I sent you. You don't need the HBL23XXA version for your controller. The right firmware is attached. In order to update the firmware via RS232 you should follow these(link) steps. If you are not in a rush we could check it together tomorrow via teamviewer.  
 
I apologize for any inconvenience,

28/08 16:41

Oh, the wrong firmware! That’ll do it! I’ll go and try using DFU but as far as I can tell the steps in the link are exactly what I’ve been doing, DFU doesn’t get as far as loading the firmware as turning the controller off and on doesn’t work.
Probably speak to you tomorrow.

I tried it and now it won't connect via USB or RS232

So I think my controller is now a brick, good eh?

Also, notice they never mention the firmware they removed from the download page

[Vitolds]

very similar to my correspondence with roboteq.
3 - BMS replacements
2 - replace GBL controller (but it still works with errors)
2 - HBL replacements

[stevelawiw]

They've just agreed to pick up my controller at thier cost to fix it, so I can't fault them on that
They were very apologetic, I know what it's like when the boot is on the other foot and it's you that's at fault, so I felt sorry for the guy.
Maybe I should ask them if they could upgrage it to the new 'A' version so I could start playing with sine/cos commutation, but that's probably pushing it a bit far.
Vitolds what are you using a GBL conntroller in? apologies if you've posted about it elsewhere but I've not seen anything. GBLs are meaty beasts!

[Vitolds]

I think that the new products Roboteq, raw.
I just got from a BMS repair (replaced with a new one), it works again with errors.
And worst of all, 100A peak and 60A long. I bought a BMS 200A. Power dropped during repair
I will show later, a photo of their work, so as not to irritate burgermen
And again, the GBL is broken ....
It seems to me that the work hired not the best students ...

[Burgerman]

BMS...

[Vitolds]

Let's open the topic and talk about bms.
I am not a supporter of bms, but without bms it is impossible.

[stevelawiw]

I'm not feeling quite so sorry for the guy from Roboteq at the moment
I packaged the controller the same day thinking they might realise it's a bit of a problem having a brick rather than a working controller, last friday, so currently nine days ago, and the controller is still sitting here waiting to be picked up
I've emailed him twice, all I get is sorry for the delay!

[stevelawiw]

While I was waiting I bought two of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-HP-DL380-G5-PSU-HP-403781-001-1000W-FIT-DL385-G2-ML370-G5-ML350-G5/273052190643?epid=26027341911&hash=item3f932dc7b3:g:1boAAOSwFnxadGgU
and made a 25.7v psu to use with my ageing Hyperion. It's much quieter than my old one I made with two different server PSU's.

The mods are much easier as well, just two jumpers to solder on the pins exposed at the back, isolate the DC ground on the 24v PSU and connect ground from 12v psu to +12v on the 24v psu.

Link to mods description
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1301679-Hp-DPS-800gb-a-power-supply/page2

25.7v 2000w PSU for around £30
I know it could look a lot tidier but it does the job!

[Burgerman]

Thats 60 for 2?
Or 1?
Or 27 for a pair?
If so that cheap. But how reliable.
But another alternative;

You can get an adjustable 0 to 50A, and 0 to 60V one from shirley, with or without a fancy case, for about the same. It can also be configured as a CC/CV/Float 3 stage adjustable charger too. around 5 to 3000 watts.

[stevelawiw]

Got one, I use it on my bench. I did try it for charging but it's a bit loud and gets hot on the balancing. I know it's cheap for what you get, but unless I'm wrong they're over £100 arn't they? hardly the same price

Edit: £26.99 for two unmodded server PSUs

[Burgerman]

No much cheaper without the fancy case, thats more than half the cost.

Noisy fan can be cured in a bunch of ways. Hot? Ice cold. Never even warm. But biggest advantage is that its adjustable. So works for testing, bench electronics supply, direct charging for lithium cells, 12 or 24, 36, 48V lead, lithium wIth BMS, or electroplating for e.g. as I am playing with!

But very cheap if you just want power supply.

[stevelawiw]

If so that cheap. But how reliable.

I'll let you know when it breaks

Shirley's PSUs are brilliant, no question or complaints from me, but ice cold on balancing?

[Burgerman]

Yes. As cold as if its off. But still a little loud.

[Burgerman]

The problem with server supplies is this. I have done a couple. When you load it the the voltage drops. And charger cuts out with an error. Why? Because the power is regulated based on the 5V rails voltage. In a PC thats what takes the highest load normally. So if you only load the 12V the voltage drops. And the 5v remains at 5V. So... No correction You ideally need to disconnect the sense wire from the 5V, and do a divider network from the 12V rail to 0V so that it sees 5V when the supply is at say 12.5V. Then as the 12V rail drops, it corrects it as it sees 5V fall too...

And the other is reliability when used this way.

[stevelawiw]

Oh ok. So far I've only pulled 20a from it and the voltage goes up to 25.9, so .2 higher. I'm still relying on my Hyperion. When I finally get a PL8 I'll try pulling more from it to see what that does.

[stevelawiw]

Update on the controller, it's now in Greece being fixed, hopefully

[hank]

[stevelawiw]

I'm trying to get the brakes connected to the Roboteq. I've got a 48 - 24v inverter to power them but when it gets power it unlocks the brakes momentarily and then locks them again. I simplified it by just connecting the coil up to a 24v battery with the same result. What am I doing wrong? I thought you just give the coil power to create a magnetic field and it pulls the plate away from the clutch plate and the brake is off! Is it not that simple?

Any pointers welcome.

I took a brake unit apart to understand how it works expecting there just to be three plates side by side, but found this :-

8 floating brake pads in the clutch plate, is it not a thing of beauty

[Burgerman]

No and it needs around 2 Amps

[Burgerman]

What am I doing wrong? I thought you just give the coil power to create a magnetic field and it pulls the plate away from the clutch plate and the brake is off! Is it not that simple?

Yes.

[stevelawiw]

Well I know now why the battery didn't work, 26.x was too high voltage, when I dropped down to 7 lithium cells at 19.x it works fine
So now I'll have to check the inverter voltage. I'm pretty sure it was bang on 24v when I checked it was working before. Thanks for the confirmation that I wasn't doing anything stupid

[Burgerman]

You must have a bad connection or something. If 7S works, so will 8... Or 10, it may get hotter. Its just a coil of wire.

[stevelawiw]

Really? I thought for sure it must have some sort of over volt protection?

[Burgerman]

I never saw one that did but who knows

[stevelawiw]

Brakes are on hold (HaHa) for a while as I burnt out my only 48-12v inverter when I was learning how to wire up a Roboteq digital out to control the brakes This is bad, I know. The inverter really stank of ammonia and it looked like it had weed itself as there was a liitle puddle of liquid underneath it afterwards. What's worse is I also took out my Shirley PSU. I'm not sure what's gone in the PSU, it's not the fuse I checked that, it still powers up and looks like it's ok, the LED screen works just the same but the amps stay on zero. I'll have to take it completly to bits to see later. I do know how to wire up a digital out now

[Burgerman]

Digital out i just a 1A max switch to 0V.

I use it with the roboteqs 5V supply to switch a DC / DC Solid state switch a Solid State Relay. . To drive the brakes. (an SSR).

[stevelawiw]

Thanks I hadn't thought of using Roboteqs 5v to switch the SSR I thought I would need an external supply so I was going to use a 48 - 12v inverter. I'll do it your way that's much better.

I've been working on getting the joystick working and run into a strange problem, if I connect up the throttle to Ain1 it works fine until I connect steering to Ain2. Steering then works but throttle stops working. I'm getting the voltage swing showing in the run tab but nothing gets through to the motors. If I disable steering in configuration throttle starts working again. Any idea what could be causing this?