However, the StickSensitivity: subroutine has NOTHING WHATSOEVER to do with MotorCompensation.
The StickSensitivity: subroutine was NOT in the script when you tested the robot, I hadn't even thought of it till many months later, so that's not what you were seeing with the robot.
It only changes scaling of raw joystick mV values into motor command values. Motor current measurement (or estimation) and MotorCompensation: itself are entirely downstream of that. StickSensitivity: doesn't change the value of motor resistance, nor does it change how motor current is measured or estimated. I still think you are confused about StickSensitivity: so do think about the above graph again.
The real issue that is an example of why I think this is wrong to do what you are proposing...
3. If on my driveway which slopes towards the road, or if driving downhill on my street, ZERO amps are required to move at all. Quite the opposite. The chair will naturally roll down, towards the road and accelerate if controller is turned off and the brake is released. So as I move the stick forwards by 3mm (to leave the deadband) to go forwards downhill, a NEGATIVE motor compensation slows and controls the chair as I move slowly. Or it will go faster than I wanted. With your bump at the begining, it will be going faster than I want at its slow speed where even the tinyest pulsewidth makes the chair go! It will also make slow controlled corrections on my van ramp, coming down, harder and jumpy.
I could change StickSensitivity to apply only to Steering and not to Throttle or make minStick inversely proportionate to SpeedPot (for Throttle) and TurnPot (for Steering) - so initial stick response would remain the same even if the pot was turned down to an extremely slow speed.
IF abs(Steering) > 0 THEN
IF abs(Throttle) > 0 THEN
I don't care how good/bad it looks on graphs. I have to feel it. Graphs and jackstand tests give me an idea of how it'll perform, but nothing replaces really using it.
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