terry2 wrote:So this morning I had the error code 4 come up.
The manual says it's the wiring on the right motor.
I can hear both motors click to release the break then the error code.
Iv'e now got a friend coming to take centre foot plate off so I can have a look.
Is there anything I should look for?
Thanks in advance.
Irving wrote:terry2 wrote:So this morning I had the error code 4 come up.
The manual says it's the wiring on the right motor.
I can hear both motors click to release the break then the error code.
Iv'e now got a friend coming to take centre foot plate off so I can have a look.
Is there anything I should look for?
Thanks in advance.
Could be brushes or loose cable. What were you doing immediately before fault code appeared?
terry2 wrote:Irving wrote:terry2 wrote:So this morning I had the error code 4 come up.
The manual says it's the wiring on the right motor.
I can hear both motors click to release the break then the error code.
Iv'e now got a friend coming to take centre foot plate off so I can have a look.
Is there anything I should look for?
Thanks in advance.
Could be brushes or loose cable. What were you doing immediately before fault code appeared?
I was just coming home. Went over a bump and my chair would only turn left. Then the error came up.
So to me that means(facing the chair)it's my right motor?
Yep, or lh motor sitting in chair. Prob cable come loose, it happened to me in Spectra once crossing the road!
terry2 wrote:Yep, or lh motor sitting in chair. Prob cable come loose, it happened to me in Spectra once crossing the road!
Just tried the cables and still the same.
Will get some cleaner on the contacts later and try that.
terry2 wrote:So glad my new chair won't have any of this horse ****
rover220 wrote:done well if they are the motors i fitted for you, bet you have covered some miles!!
terry2 wrote:rover220 wrote:done well if they are the motors i fitted for you, bet you have covered some miles!!
Yes they have done loads of miles. But well looked after.
You know that short converter cable you fitted?
Well I think it's one of them.
If I change the small converter cable to the left motor(as I face it) I get a error 3.
So how much are them inc delivery?
rover220 wrote:terry2 wrote:rover220 wrote:done well if they are the motors i fitted for you, bet you have covered some miles!!
Yes they have done loads of miles. But well looked after.
You know that short converter cable you fitted?
Well I think it's one of them.
If I change the small converter cable to the left motor(as I face it) I get a error 3.
So how much are them inc delivery?
ah, no idea to be honest as they come with the motors when ordered to convert from pgdt to dynamics.
Burgerman wrote:Yes, but you need the complete system.
Its way easier to find the bad connector and just fix it. Also free... Will be the usual problem. Instead of soldering, the connector will be crimped, gone high resistance and overheated. Then they get loose because they become soft and anealed, and oxydised because of the heat. Which makes it go ever more higher resistance, ever hotter, until no connection and you stop.
Pull it apart, find the burned bit, and fix it.
Burgerman wrote:Its likely the brass connector that plugs onto the power module. You cleaned it a bit by unplugging and replugging.
If you try it back in the FAULTY module, that likely works as well.
To fix it you need to use some spray switch cleaner and nip the connectors with some pliers with care so that the blades are 'gripped' tightly when plugged in. Or it will fail all over again soon. a hundred Amps goes through those nasty blade connectors. They MUST be a tight fit. Or they heat up and oxydise, and then go soft. And heat up more, rinse and repeat.
Burgerman wrote:You miss the point. The CONNECTORS get hot. Oxydise and make bad connections. The brass part gets oxydised and anealed. So loses the tension and grip. Then you get errors and stop. That very likely is your issue. You need to tighten the connector that plugs onto the power module. And be sure it makes a very firm contact. Once you do that, the original power module will likely work as well.
Burgerman wrote:I have no idea how that will help. Galium? Or even how you would do it.
If the connectors are all clean, tight, and soldered to the cables, and a very light petroleum jelly applied they dont and wont fail. Galium does not 'wet' the surface, will not improve the oxxdation or help with conductivity. Or stay where its put.
terry2 wrote:It's called Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal.
I don't know if it will work. But no harm in trying
I use it on my 9700K and my Titan Xp.
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