I would be somewhat surprised if the PN value was much of an issue... The 'spigot' section is 75mm OD, and the couplings from different brands seem to be about 47-50mm, so that gives about 12mm ~1/2" worth of 'meat' around the outside - even in aluminum that seems pretty stout...
Does it make any difference if the width of the hub is more or less than the width (length) of the coupling?
Even though 3/4" is not quite = 19mm (0.75" = 19.05mm, 19mm = 0.74805" according to my digi-micrometer) should I assume that it is close enough to be able to use a metric fitting (I have seen some inch versions as well)
Burgerman wrote:I cant see any way to reliably measure that or even determine what a chair may apply. If it looks right it probably is. If you worry, add a spacer behind, and a nut and washer + spacer if needed on the outside edge. So it cant move.
But keyways and reversing loads do not work. I had to replace stock F55 wheels because of fretting. And subsequent wear. Parallel shafts are a bad idea. You need taper ones. With a key just in case. And steel preferably.
Threads. Ideally the thread in steel needs to be 1.25x the diameter. And in anything softer, more...
ex-Gooserider wrote:I'm using M8 for the wheel bolts as that is the biggest that will go through the holes in the wheel... If I stick to my original plan, its certainly going to be strong enough as it would require pulling the bolt head through the plate....
If I switch to putting Allens into the hub, I figure that the Helicoil people should have a pretty good handle on how long their inserts need to be, especially since they are somewhat intended for use in aluminum... So if I make the bolt flange as thick as the insert length, it won't be going anywhere....
ex-Gooserider
(So much for US mfg.... )Yes, we do offer the C193E-075 in stainless steel, but we typically do not stock stainless locking devices on the shelf at our warehouse in Mentor, OH. They are manufactured at our factory in Italy and then shipped to our warehouse in about 5-7 weeks after we get an order.
Irving wrote:If Powder-coating you'd need to find a way to keep the mating taper surfaces free. Also the surface friction coefficient could screw up the numbers. I'd pass.
Personally I'd go with either the nickel or chrome finishes. Both are fairly rust resistant, look good and sensible pricing. And if they do go a bit manky after a couple of years just swap them out.
ex-Gooserider wrote:Had another long talk on the phone this afternoon w/ another sales engineer from Climax Metal Products...
He did suggest that their C192E-075 assembly would work better for me
.....
He even said they are on Amazon so I can use my credit card bonus points to pay for them....
ex-Gooserider
shirley_hkg wrote: If wheel is 9mm thick, make the hub 8.5 ; just in case you want to have a cover plate on the outside of the the rim.
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