Burgerman wrote:Never! Very strange.
Not sure quite how wise an 86 car is if you are disabled and relying in it though...
I bought a 98 Ranger which only had 75K on it.
Burgerman wrote:..................I would consider 75k ready for scrapping! ...
440roadrunner wrote:I have mixed feelings
Frankly, I see your biggest PITA problem as what you mentioned -- accessories wiring. You can really nickel and dime yourself if you have to pay a mechanic to run down a balky door lock or mirror problem
AC You planning of repairing the AC? I would make DOUBLE sure this has been properly converted to a newer refrigerant. These things are all over the map, IE some backyard joints just blow out the old refrigerant and oil and drop in the new. I'm no expert on every system, but some are different and have their own conversion problems, IE different seals and gaskets, etc
If I was taking this thing on, I'd buy TWO factory shop manuals -- an original or reprint paper copy, and one on CD
Burgerman wrote:I bought a 98 Ranger which only had 75K on it.
My van has done 9k (not 90k) in 5 years! And I will consider swapping for new in a couple of years mostly because I dont want to ever do any repairs or breaking down. I dont need that when away from home somewhere cold and cant get the ramp or door or whatever to work...
LROBBINS wrote:Our vans aren't pretty, but our 97 Vantage Grand Voyager conversion has 150,000 miles and the Kangoo has 230,000 km. Both recently needed engine work.
440roadrunner wrote:Burgerman wrote:..................I would consider 75k ready for scrapping! ...
I think it depends on where you are in the US, as well. My 67 Dart, the 86 Ranger, and the 98 Ranger, as well as the 95 Olds Cutlass I bought from my Mom collectively have almost NO rust problems. For many years, this was typical of this area. Only recently has the Eastern WA state/ Idaho state started using significant chemicals on wintery roads. The Spokane area is the worst, as they have gone to liquid chemicals and avoid plowing at every turn. These chemicals are literally eating the pavement and bridges from the inside out.
The 98 Ranger Drives, steers, handles and stops like it was on rails. It is one of the best handling vehicles of this type I've owned. Even the old 86 Ranger runs pretty well. IT has about 125K on the clock.
Much of the Eastern U.S. is an entirely different story. Between the chemicals of the "rust belt" and chemicals on the roads, cars simply don't last. I can remember when my old 70 RR was only about 2 years old, one day at the Navy base I got up early, and here was a 70 Satellite down the parking lot, with the morning sun behind it. You could see the SUN SHINING THROUGH THE SIDES of the rear quarter panels!!!
It had come from the E coast and only 2 years old, was falling apart.
ex-Gooserider wrote:Getting back to the original question, I've never seen / heard of a gull-wing caravan, but don't know why it wouldn't be possible...
Burgerman wrote:Same with powerchairs. But here newer isnt more reliable! Frankly they all suck. Even if they dont let you down (and they do...) they last about a year before the crappy finish, exposed steel bearings, and motor/controller cables screw up due to the salt everything is coated in. So I build my own. Never had ANY failures on my home built chairs. Not even a puncture since they are tubeless and full of off road gunk, Drilling a hole in the tyre wont even deflate it! Stainles bearings, bolts, and silicone grease high quality electrical connectors, copper grease every bolt, which are ALL stainless, and decent finish on every single part, a dab of silicone around the relocated power module, and controller/ means reliability. Never failed to get home.
Burgerman wrote:If your blast uses the pilot plus system, you realise it can be reprogrammed to steer and stop steering far more accurately and positively like a computer mouse or a car? Prides programming is unbelievably delayed and weird. You need woodygb's lead from another thread, and the OEM programming software that is easy to get...
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