stainless bolts bigger
Above. All the bolts used on reassembly were stainless steel so they never
corrode and polished as
shown above. 19 UK Pounds for the grinder/polisher and the same for the drill!
I'm stingy. The bolts were about 95 UK Pounds though... And I ordered them from the cheapest place I
could find online. Mostly I made a note as the chair was stripped apart at the
beginning. Take out a nasty steel bolt, measure it and make a note then throw it
away. For the home made parts (wheel nuts, footplates, armrest bars, etc I
just ordered what I thought I would need. And a few extra! Actually I ordered
twice that because there was
actually two chairs being built.
Above: Wheel centre disks and the round bars that I use to replace
the big flat standard plastic flat plates fitted to the armrest uprights on a
standard chair. The stock ones cause sweat, potential skin problems, don't allow you to
access your pockets without a huge fight and are both heavy and manage to look
crap as well as holding the arms a further 2 inches apart all at once! A
marvellous bit of committee design! They just had to go! (Look at the stock green one high up on
the page and compare to my modified one) These new parts will be going in a big
box with all the other bits of the dismantled chairs, straight to the powder
coaters to be coated in tough silver. The wheel disks were cut (with a simple hole
saw) from some 4mm sheet aluminium. At least 2 were. The other two came from my
friendly machine shop. The long bars were made for my to a drawing on a
beer mat by my local engineering company too.
Both can be seen finished and fitted
on the first photo on this page! Look at the wheel centres and the armrest
Machined powerchair parts
Power wheelchair footplate
wheelchair footplate parts bigger
Footrest mountings (more beer mat drawings) and some other one off parts back from the powder coater.
Footrests on this F55 power chair as standard are the old fashioned swing away
style ones. Yuk in so many ways. See the green chair again at the top of page. Problem is that again
they manage to be useless and look crap as well as getting in the way while both
transferring and manoeuvring. Only a committee design can do this!
out too far ahead too (here comes my feet, then here comes me) and more
importantly they are "wide". Meaning that they sort of form corners. The chair
is impossibly unwieldy and hard to manoeuvre in tight places narrow turn areas,
small loos etc. So I cut them off where they mount on to the seat frame at the
top. So I changed the design (beer mat again) to give me a better cleaner
shorter arrangement. Big saw and five mins later problem solved!
I replaced them with this home made single footplate shown above and below. 4mm
alloy sheet and a friendly engineering shop and a beer mat drawing with
dimensions as usual. There is two shown. I am actually doing two power chairs at
once. Top shows plates cut out, and a bit of angle 40mm aluminium cut so it can
be bent, then riveted to the plates. below.
Footplate with Edge big
Footplate with edge
Above. All riveted together... Two mounting holes 8mm drilled.
After powder coat they will be about 7mm! Perfect for 6mm Domed Polished Allen screws.
Alternatively you could use countersunk ones. And then into the pile of stuff to go to the powder coaters for
the silver coating!
footplate parts big
Powder coated footplate
Above same footplates as above and some other stuff After
coating. The bar here is
actually a lock up bar to use instead of the rear suspension shock absorber
unit. It replaces it so then the chair has no working suspension. Better when
driving my van! Less good on the street. So I have both options (2 identical
chairs) Things on the ends are spherical joints, rose joints, rod ends depending
on who you talk to. Available from bearing places and very strong! These arte M8
Male... I use them on the footplate mountings too as they need to move.
Assembled footplate big
New smaller more compact shorter and stronger single footplate
designed on a beer mat shown here assembled! The two square bars are 25mm
aluminium, and the plate on top for strengthening the joint is 4mm steel. The
bit sticking up is for the supporting rod and rose joint that will lift it up and down with
the seat. Its also aluminium and milled to shape by my local engineering shop.
Two needed as the other one fits under the seat frame.
It fits like this -- into two more 8mm rose joints (female, and an 8mm threaded
bar) since it has to move up and down
with the seat since I fitted an actuator rather than a fixed rod so I can tilt
back and chill!
rose joint big
Removed, and the triangular strengthening plate fitted, and refitted awaiting
To see the footplate fully fitted and finished with its rose joints and support click here
new footplate fitted
new footplate fitted
bigger (new window)
Above: More stuff back from the powder coater! And a very expensive bag of
Stainless Steel Allen Screws and bolts/nuts and washers!
bagged bolts & wheels
bagged bolts & wheels
powder coated wheels
powder coated wheels
bigger Unwrapped -- Bearing holes are all filled with cooked and powder coated masking tape, Its a pig to
remove after its been in the powder coaters oven! Sets rock hard Wheelchairs can be a pain
in the a**!
Photos don't show the shine somehow, But trust me they are very very shiny! The stock
paint is thin, dull and the finish starts to deteriorate and flake off and the wheels go all
powdery after one winter and they look a discoloured patchy mess. This powder coating just doesn't
seem to deteriorate at all after several years in salty conditions. Just soapy water
and sponge and its as good and shiny as new. As are the corrosion proof polished
stainless steel bolts.
Wheel assembled, new bearings, new stainless bolts and
everything (shaft, bearings, spacers) greased so no corrosion. It needs to
come apart again to fit the tyres and tubes. Bugger I forgot...
4 new front tyres and 4 new tubes, cheaper to buy 4 sets at once
and they wear out fast anyway... Mine came £40.00 delivered.
These are used on some mini-moto bikes, mini bikes and scooters both electric
and petrol like the go-peds. Actually I got 8 fronts (and 4 rears) as I am
actually doing two of these power wheelchairs at once.
powerchair tyres black front bigger
The solid type (grey) ones many people use cause batteries to die faster
as they are harder to move and also harder to steer. These ones can puncture but they
are much less likely to do so as the centre of gravity on this chair is moved
very much back. There is very little weight on these front wheels now.
They just seem to ride right over glass and sharp things and very seldom get
punctures any more. As an extra precaution you can add a lot of off road
tyre sealant as well as I do. As it happens I can now drive about without a
wheel on the front anyway as the moved rearward C of G means the front is so
light that one single wheel is plenty.
power wheelchair big
Brand new caster forks were used (two of the four sent to be coated) because I managed to
bend the old ones landing from hundreds of wheelies. But just like every
other part these new ones too went to the Powder Coaters as the crappy thin stock cellulose paint
finish that they come with is abysmal. It just looks so dismal and dull and thin compared to a powder coated
part. Here it still has masking tape (baked) on...
Here's an old rusty one -- also just back from the powder coater, and with two new bearings
and new Nut.
Caster forks and wheels joined up! And new tyres and tubes
fitted. Each one has a 1/3rd fill of off road (thicker) tyre sealant which is loads! Stuff in the bottle
OKO off road Tyre Sealant. Trust me it works. At least the off road stuff does.
fork and wheel
New bearings in wheel as you can see as well as on the caster
fork. And everything powder coated like glass so it lasts and all bolts polished
stainless steel because it looks prettier and doesn't ever corrode or go dull!
assembled front caster big
assembled front caster
Getting some bits together!
getting ready for assembly
for assembly bigger
anti tip wheelchair wheels big
anti tip powerchair wheels
Above... Rear suspension arms, and battery tray back from the powder coaters. As
is everything else! Reassembly begins. The crappy rubber plain bearing stock
anti tip wheels are both too big and wont last more than a couple of weeks if
you wheelie all the time as I do.. I wheelie all over the place like a
loony (my body is 48 but my brain is still 16) and it shreds them! They don't let me
tip back far enough either as they are too big. So I replace them with these tiny skate board
wheels. They look better (as do the polished stainless bolts) and allow me to
tip back further. I can wheelie and run along on these now for the length of the
street and I do so every day. Or stop and sit in a bar drinking my beer tipped onto the rear wheels.
The make a lot of noise but seem to last forever. The reason it tips back and
stays back is due to the relocated C of G (rearwards) because of the new seat
plates and the bigger rear drive
wheel diameter (bigger tyre size) and the smaller anti tip wheels.
housing powerchair big
Cleaning the rust and cooked masking tape from the frame!
Here's where those bearing go in the frame. You must coat all of the bearings
and the shaft as well at the frame in here in grease or copper grease to prevent
the corrosion that will otherwise happen after reassembly. Shame the manufacturers don't bother!!!
rusty bearing housing big
Rusty bearing housing
All greasy including the frame. Time for a polish! This is one of four new
caster fork bearings. This is the bottom of the frame.
fitted to frame big
bearings fitted to frame
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