Programming leads

[woodygb]

Thanks,
What you are saying was exactly what I thought, changing pods should not make a difference...
The PM talks to the different pod and away we go.
I just have to sort out the inhibit, why someone would want it to do what it does is nuts...
or get another pod, problem is they are not cheap.

Not a real fix but ....
Open the pod and cut the inhibit wire on the back of the charger socket..... see if that "cures" the problem.

[LROBBINS]

If the charger inhibit line is connected (to ground) the chair won't move at all, not just move very slowly. Have you tried the magnet in case turtle mode got set?

[shirley_hkg]

Hi woodygb, gonna get a usb cable.

With reference to pin assignment , is the following suitable ?

Female is on left , male on the right.

[woodygb]

They look fine.

I would go with the Y108 that appears to use the FTDI Chip set...but any of the Male type should be fine.

[shirley_hkg]

woodygb, what is the proper connecting steps ?

I have the USB converter installed.
Plug in your lead. Joystick shows an inhibit.
Connect the other end to USB converter. Inhibit goes away. Is it normal ?

Launch Wizard, but see it is not connected yet.

Any advice ?

[rover220]

woodygb, what is the proper connecting steps ?

I have the USB converter installed.
Plug in your lead. Joystick shows an inhibit.
Connect the other end to USB converter. Inhibit goes away. Is it normal ?

Launch Wizard, but see it is not connected yet.

Any advice ?

Have you selected the correct com port in wizard settings?

[shirley_hkg]

Plug in your lead. Joystick shows an inhibit.
Connect the other end to USB converter. Inhibit goes away. Is it normal ?

[shirley_hkg]

rover220, fixed it.

Thanks.

[woodygb]

[Bubbernator]

Hello, Woody.
My name is Chris, a.k.a. Bubbernator, and I have a question or three...
I've perused the various threads on programming and programming leads. There's quite a bit of info there, particularly in threads that have evolved since 2012.
I'm attempting to make a cable to connect with and program my chair but I want to make sure I'm on the right path.
Basics: Quantum Q-Logic EX pod, part # CTLDC-1467 (3 pin XLR w/ two additional CANbus pins)
Quantum Controller, part # CLTDC-1466
I'm thinking that this is manufactured by Curtis Instruments.
Available software: Curtis Controls 1314-4401 OEM V3.12

As Quantum is a bastard child of Pride Mobility am I locked out by the manufacturer? I've read that Pride products are inaccessible but I also read an older thread about USB-CAN interfacing. Is that possible?

I fiddled around and built myself a plug (photo) that currently only has the two CAN pins wired up.

I've also found a reasonably priced USB-CAN adapter that seems capable of various protocols:

https://canable.io/

I haven't bought it yet, just looking.
So, am I on a fool's errand (or as we say around here, a Snipe Hunt)? From what I've understood so far, the modified Kenwood cables work through the XLR pins on certain brand controllers (i.e. Curtiss-Wright) via TX and RX signals whereas the equipment I have can only be accessed via CAN (if at all)?
Thanks for any input or suggestions, even if it is that I should have bought R-Net.

[LROBBINS]

Unless you are able to hack and decipher the CAN message dictionary specific to that controller, reading the CANbus isn't going to get you anywhere. If you can parse all those messages you will be in a position to write your own control program, but still won't have the tools to change the settings in theirs.

I don't know that controller, but perhaps someone else can tell you whether tools are available for changing settings, including important ones like turn acceleration/deceleration and motor compensation.

[woodygb]

Here is a quote from one of my previous posts on the subject.

I had previously wondered if the 50 of the part number / code was an indication of the model and it is now confirmed that it is indeed an indication of the powerbase type.

So we now have more definitive info on what lead / comms protocol is used by certain Pride/Curtis models.

The Curtis EnAble40 LOOKS the same as a Pride/Curtis CTLDC1552 or 1750-2009 and the EnAble40 manual suggests serial type comms ( RX / TX ).

It is however a variant of the EnAble50 and uses CAN.

A Curtis 1740 powerbase is an EnAble40 and a 1750 is an EnAble50 ...the 40 is programmed with a serial type lead and the other 50 uses CAN.

I am assuming that if the control system is an NE model that it is an EnAble40.... a check of the powerbase number should confirm this.

Have a look at the base of your joystick pod it will have a model number 1751... thus it is a Curtis EnAble50

You will need one of these ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-CAN-Deb ... SwiGNdcf7w .... and some modified Curtis software.

Do a search and you may find a cheaper place to purchase the A1 USB-CAN.

E.G. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32819226601.html

[Bubbernator]

Thank you, sir
I believe the Q-Logic EX is part the 1st iteration of the series. The later models, Q-logic 2 & 3, seemed to become more and more difficult to the programming.
My programming skills are limited (I was real good at BASIC about 35 years ago) so without investing a lot of time and money into education and aspirin I think I'd be better off saving my funds for a set of controls I can actually work on. I always like to DIY whenever possible but I know when the rabbit hole is getting too deep for me.

[woodygb]

The software and guidance on it's installation is available should you wish to try yourself.

[Bubbernator]

Aahhh. Thank you, Woody!
The joystick # is 1751-0009 and the controller is 1750-3509, therefore is based on the Curtis Enable 50.
I appreciate the reply and links. I'll be mucking around with this thing over the next few weeks so you may be hearing back from me about it.
BTW- I am very thankful for this message board and the people on it. Ya'll rock.

[woodygb]

Your welcome.

NOTE THAT YOU WILL NEED SOME MODIFIED FILES TO MAKE THE A1 WORK WITH THE CURTIS SOFTWARE.

[woodygb]

Here are the required files that go into the 1314 programming folder.

MOD FILES.zip

(441.27 KiB) Downloaded 233 times

The original LXN4py2s.dll is replaced by the one contained in the above zip file.
The MCP Folder contained in the zip file merges with or replaces the original MCP folder....
The QM_USB.dll is an additional and required file , that together with the LXN4py2s.dll allows the A1 USB-CAN to communicate with the EnAble50.

[Bubbernator]

I appreciate that. Muchas gracias.
I'll be ordering the A1 from AliExpress. I should have it in a month or so (barring any further embargoes, tariffs, pandemics or biblical plagues).
Thank you for the mod files. As I dig further into earlier threads I see that you've answered most of my questions already at one point or another. I've also come across your name at a couple other message boards.....you do get around!

[Burgerman]

You forgot asteroids and locusts or nuclear attacks. Or socialism.

[Bubbernator]

I'll be putting my money on the asteroid.
My bumper sticker for the upcoming election:

https://www.amazon.com/Giant-Meteor-202 ... B0734KF6CW

[Burgerman]

That wont work. Musk has you covered.

[Bubbernator]

I'm in!!!
I got my USB-CAN adapter (A1+) the other day and put everything together.
Installed the MOD files that Woody so generously provided for the Curtis 1314 software and eventually got it to connect.
Required a driver download and a COM port change, but it was a relatively painless installation.

Many, many thanks to BM, Woody, LHRobbins and all of the other board members that have contributed their knowledge and expertise through the years. I wouldn't have even known where to start without you. The "programming" thread is like going to school again!
Thank you. I hope I got a passing grade.....

[woodygb]

[slurpster]

Hey Woodygb, Any chance you would have any of the pc programmer adapters for a dx2 controller by dynamic still? If so, could you send me a price quote shipped to the USA?

[woodygb]

I can make one ... I am assuming that your DX2 Dynamic controller doesn't have a 5 pin hirose ?
See pic ....

[slurpster]

I can make one ... I am assuming that your DX2 Dynamic controller doesn't have a 5 pin hirose ?
See pic ....

hirose.jpg

It's a rem550 dx2 remote. It doesn't have the hirose plug on it, just the xlr charge port.

[woodygb]

I haven't forgotten ...just waiting for some 9.1v zeners that are needed to complete the build.

[cositom]

hello to every one, I am new to this site and the new chapter of becoming more familiar with power wheel chairs as i am getting older I find i need something electric being born prematurely, with many physical issues, I can not believe how complicated these are now, at time i bought one working shop rider MWD, it controls like a drunk sailer on deck in a storm, I also have a you-Q alex FWD given to me as a none runner I discovered it needed a new main controller, having sourced one and fitted it, pleased to find things come on, but here is big but controller firm ware is incompatible with jolly joy stick, having found how to marry the two all still incompatible, I guess my query is its clear i need some sort of cable interface or programmer, if i can im looking to get one device to deal with programming both these machines, would any one be able to guide me through this mine field so I can avoid costly errors i can ill afford only receiving state pension, I would greatly appreciate thank you.

[woodygb]

Can you identify the joystick make / model?

http://www.electricwheelchairparts.com/ ... ation1.htm

Hmmm...probably a DX2

[cositom]

sorry i very new to forums so hope i am doing things correctly ,dynamic dx2 not sure if r net