PINNED ZXD2400 Old + New 0-60V 0-50A Power Supply & Charger

[Burgerman]

Updated

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/ ... 93#p206900

[Burgerman]

transition current 0.03A not 0.15A

33Ah is half the battery so you need about half the current plus a bit to test. So 0.10A approx. Test. At 0.03 it may never work.

[shirley_hkg]

I just received mine. It won't go past 25A. Any idea why?
I received the 120v version. It goes up to 120v and 25A

Go to Advance Menu and run
(Auto Diagnose & Adapt)

It will check the hardware and assign itself accordingly.

[Burgerman]

The hardware is same or different?
Because my 60V ones can do 120V if I set 120V in settings too.

[shirley_hkg]

Not the same.

[shirley_hkg]

Did you really get 120V output ?

[Burgerman]

It said so, didnt measure it. You mean it likely doesent actually do it?

Will find out in a while. Doesent make sense to have different hardware. Does it?

[Burgerman]

It said so, didnt measure it. You mean it likely doesent actually do it?

Will find out in a while. Doesent make sense to have different hardware. Does it?

[shirley_hkg]

Modifications are different.

Other than changing higher volt output capacitors, the transformer has to be taken out. Change it from parallel to in series. That's why double the volt , halved the amp.

With much EXTRA and complicated works than that of a 60V kin.

[shirley_hkg]

Tried on my 2 units. They just won't allow anything above 60.00V

[shirley_hkg]

youtu.be/zj4V09HNpjQ


youtu.be/ZikwcjBybuI

[Burgerman]

Oh.
Then its possible that emilevirus actually has a 120V one? So his may not do 50A? Even though it now says it can. Maybe you shipped wrong one?

[shirley_hkg]

"Shit happens" as you've said.

Only way to tell is open it, and check if transformer modified.

[shirley_hkg]

He keeps ZERO stock and I'm the only one who order it with Anderson.

Just don't make any sense to me that he did such large amount of additional work by mistake.

[Burgerman]

He can tell by setting back to 120V and check on multimeter if it really is.

[emilevirus]

All good. I ran the calibration and it detected 60v50A.

[Burgerman]

Someone must have changed its volts/amps while testing. And not changed back.

Its a shame it cant do both! I thought for a bit it would actually do the 120V too! Not that I can think of any use for that at the moment...

For what its worth the actual voltage you can set probably depends on the AC voltage detail. At the higher voltage input in UK I see 245 to 253 Volts here. I think I can set 70V and actually get it. So 0-70V and 50A - and set 3.5kW.

I also noted that some ZXDs on aliexpress are sold as 0-65V 0-50A so thats likely possible from 200V to 240V supply anyway. The thing will be set conservatively with some unused headroom.

Will test tomorow if 70V is reliably possible just by increasing max voltage allowed setting.

Things you CAN choose:
Front fan always runs. I set to off.
Rear fan always runs. I set to off. Both actually still turn very slowly. But at low power like during float it is silent. They should still run when needed.

And Aliexpress solid alloy knobs as per image are prettier and feel nicer. Cheap too. See below:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007470191877.html

[emilevirus]

I have a track chair with a 60v lifepo4 battery. Would've been great to charge it.

[Burgerman]

Well you should have ordered the 120V one!

[emilevirus]

Well you should have ordered the 120V one!

But then I'd be limited to 25A.

[Burgerman]

Well then you need two...

I already ordered another one like the pic above.

I still have 2 older ones. Fancy case etc but these newer ones are easier to use and quieter.

So will be ebaying the older ones, and they look almost like new except for some dust in the intake..
Well one IS new. Fancy case never yet fitted.
An offers?

[shirley_hkg]

Shame it can't do both! I thought for a bit it would actually do the 120V too!

IT does have twin voltages version in the market, with more or less the same price tags too.

It resets by running (Auto Din & Adapt) … Select to confirm and it will switch to the other voltage.

As you said, not sure of what use of it, and don't know the quality / stability too.


youtu.be/ZC5VWF7-BDs

[Burgerman]

I dont need 120V version at least so far.
But wouldnt mind the capability just in case. How much more would that cost?

Still same style large screen etc as my existing one? In place of the one I just ordered.

[shirley_hkg]

Have to check , and cannot add Anderson.

[Burgerman]

OK, forget that idea. I use anderson all the time!

Just send another identical 0-60V one, asap! Thanks!

[Burgerman]

In FACTORY menu



AUTO DIAGNOSE
Try it. Finds any faults, doesent fix anything. DISCONNECT ANY BATTERY OR DEVICE.
AUTO DIAGNOSE & ADAPT
Same thing but configures and sets up everything as stock. And you lose all customisation and personal settings.
ADAPT IN ADVANCED MENU
Moves this stuff to the advanced menu

4 WIRE CABLE USABLE
On the rear is a black and red 4mm banana connection sockets. This enables/disables them. And makes the settings for this available in the ADVANCED menu. It allows you to run 2 extra (thinner) sense wires to get totally accurate Voltage at the actual battery terminals. It corrects for cable and connector resistance losses completely.

VOLTAGE LOWER LIMIT
Sets lowest voltage that a user can set.
VOLTAGE UPPER LIMIT
Sets the highest voltage its possible for a user to set. So if you only EVER charge powerwheelchairs and never need other settings you might set 26.60 and 29.40 Volts as your minimum and maximum. Makes it faster to set up and helps garantee no errors.

CURRENT LOWER LIMIT
As with Volts above. But lowest current a user can set in Amps.
CURRENT UPPER LIMIT
Sets the highest current a user can set. So to save time in settins up, and to be sure its impossible to fry your Joystick XLR input you could set a minimum of say 3A and a maximum of 12A.

POWER LOWER LIMIT
Sets the miniup power a user can set. In WATTS. No idea why you would need that!
POWER UPPER LIMIT
Sets the maximum allowable Watts. Maybe to protect an AC supply or generator? No idea. Remember this is output watts. Input watts will be 10% greater.

FAN SETTINGS. - MAKE IT SILENT!
If you watch at idle, or very low current, with a torch (flashlight) you can see the fans rotating.
I set FRONT FAN START to 0%, which stops the fan and then gradually increased the percentage to the point where the fan JUST began to rotate and then I added 1% extra. I ended up with the front fan turning and starting very reliably, but turning so slowly that you can count it. Totally silent.
Note this setting WILL be very slightly different for every unit, so best to check your own.
And in the case of mine (with smaller front fan, larger screen) this final figure is 28%.
I did exactly the same for the rear fan, and this figure ended up at 30%.
The fans will STILL ramp up as needed if you start hammering it at high Amps. But for charging at 12A next to your bed its as close to silent as doesent matter! Also means litle dust gets drawn in. Doesent even get warm.

VOLTAGE FACTORY TRIM
Use ACCURATE voltmeter to set voltage - dont bother its super close already.
CURRENT FACTORY TRIM
Use ACCURATE current meter to fine tune current. Again dont bother as its not critical.

VOLTAGE MANUAL (USER) TRIM
Use ACCURATE voltmeter to set voltage - dont bother its super close already. (I added +0.2)
CURRENT MANUAL (USER) TRIM
Use ACCURATE voltmeter to set current - dont bother its super close already.

START-UP SCREEN
2 options. Manufacturer logo/Progress. I set this to Progress as it shows a boot progress bar at start up.

DC POWER MODE USABLE
On settings at top, allows this to be visible or not.
LI-ION MODE USABLE
On settings at top, allows this to be visible or not.
LEAD ACID MODE
On settings at top, allows this to be visible or not. You may disable the other two, if you only charge lead batteries. So no mistakes.

PFC WORKING STATE
No idea.
EEPROM EDIT
Dont!

I missed out all the obvious ones like setting menu passwords etc.

[Burgerman]

MAIN SCREEN TIMER
The timer (WHITE FIGURES) only runs when float current is on constantly. So set to 27.2V. So as long as you set it longer than about 5 or 6 hours (like actually set to 24.00) it wont turn off during first stage of float it just keeps on topping up the batt continuously. When current drops really low iside the 24h you just set, charging is over, it then starts turning the current on/off (kicking in every so often intermittently instead). As/for long term maintainance. Now the timer resets back to whatever you set (like 24.00) repeatedly.

It exists (timer) for safety, to prevent thermal runaway. Where current keeps rising instead of falling as can happen on old sulfated batteries.

If you select that little brown on/off button (same line) then the charger itself turns off completely after 1 minute if nothing is happening (not charging anything, so when it sees zero current in one full minute).

Why? So that when you are charging say lithium, or no float (2 stage lead charge only) or when you leave your house in the chair the charger switches off and saves power when not charging anything.

If you configure it to work properly, you can lock the settings. In the advance/factory menus set it to AUTO-POWER UP. Set to AUTO-START too. Then it will just use your locked settings, and charge when you plug it in. And with the brown button set to ACTIVE will turn itself off after 60 secs when you go out too. Making it totally plug and play carer proof safe.

How to unlock settings? The lock button still works! 0000 or whatever number you use instead.

[shirley_hkg]

I've never gone into such details.

Top banana.

[Burgerman]

Well for the 2nd banana here's the simpler ADVANCED menu.

AUTO DIAGNOSE
Looks for faults, changes nothing, disconnect battery as may send high voltages while testing.

FAST AUTO CALIBRATION
Calibrates a few voltage settings. But disconnect battery as may send high voltages while testing.
FULL AUTO CALIBRATION
Calibrates a few voltage settings. Tests cable resistances, and losses and sets current calibrations as well, needs you to short output. But disconnect battery too as may send high voltages while testing.

VOLTAGE MANUAL TRIM
Allows you to fine tune the voltage measured and seen on screen ifyou have a calibrated multimeter. It was pretty close anway on mine.
CURRENT MANUAL TRIM
Allows you to fine tune the voltage measured and seen on screen ifyou have a calibrated multimeter.

WIRE LOSS CALIBRATION
What it says. Requires you to short the wires on your charge lead. Otherwise it gives a estimate of a fixed 8mOhm.
WIRE LOSS COMPENSATION MODE
Default (8mOhm), 2 wire requires you to set the calibration above, 4 wire requires you enable 4 wire in the MANUFACTURING menu and use a additional cable and the rear red/black connectors. So theres 3 options!

VOLTAGE ZERO THRESHOLD
Sets the display to ZERO if you see for e.g -0.02V when no battery connected. It just means you need a tiny voltage plus/minus to shift it away from zero.
CURRENT ZERO THRESHOLD
Sets the display to ZERO if you see for e.g -0.02A when no battery connected. It just means you need a tiny current plus/minus to shift it away from zero.

And I ignored the obvious ones.

[Burgerman]

Do you remember the voltage questions? 60V or 120V and different transformers and capacitors etc?

Well I needed to know. And to properly calibrate.

So then. These can output 73V and all works normally and tested under load. At 74V its a no go... It just kicks itself off every time you try to turn the power supply to ACTIVE.

So I decided that since it appears to have 100V capacitors, or higher, that setting a few volts less than that 73 was a good idea. So now the spec is:

0-70V 0-50A.