Where to find PGDT programmer software

[SparkyTime]

Hello, i've been searching the web to find something of any information to the PG Solo, they keep that a pretty good secret. But finally I found this forum.

[woodygb]

For programming , the SOLO requires the INDUSTRIAL Software.

[SparkyTime]

Silly me replied in the wrong thread.

Thanks for your reply, where do I get that software? I was on the way of reverse engineering that thing and Hardware modding it some how it measures the voltage ofh the Half-bridge. But if there is software that would be easier.
Edit: I think I got the Solo 60A, it just says "Shoprider and an serial number" it took me a lot of time finding out it was the Solo series.
Edit: I use a "Shoprider" that was supposed to get trashed, as a vehicle to transport Tools and equippent on work, between buildings, it is more comftable than a shopping cart or a car.

[woodygb]

Check your messages.

[SparkyTime]

Thank you so much.

[abrosimm]

For programming , the SOLO requires the INDUSTRIAL Software.

solo no diode.jpg

Hello! Please can you help me.
I need to programming the I-Drive controller. After reading the posts in this forum, I realized that I need to use PGDT Industrial PC Programmer.
Could you tell me where I can download this application?

[woodygb]

Check your messages.

[Spirochete]

Hello all and Season's Greetings,

Posting this in the slim hope that someone may have come across this problem.......

Have acquired a Medema Mini Crosser M1 from a neighbour, it is immaculate.

On the first day it worked well but when I switched on the next morning the gauge on the tiller is flashing two red lights ( bad motor connection ? )

All the connections are bright, clean and tight and the fuses are intact......there is 24V evident at the controller battery + / - terminals.

It has two 75Ah batteries which after standing for 3 or 4 hours after charging both measure 12.55v.

Both batteries hold up when a battery load tester is applied across the terminals.......so the batteries are not new but appear OK.

The fault will not go away UNLESS I disconnect the batteries for a few hours ( circuit / controller residual voltages decaying to zero ? ),
then it will operate normally for a while but the same fault always comes back.

The fault / 'fix' are predictable and repeatable.

Basic electrical knowledge says maybe there is a bad capacitor in there somewhere (?).......inside the controller?

Controller is an S Drive 180 D51220.03

Surprised how expensive these can be, plus a replacement will probably need programming to suit the scooter.

On a car I'd have my OBD analyser plugged in but these scooters?.......SP1 programmer £600 !!! ?

Anyone seen similar fault / cause and is there a PC-based reader / programmer I can download anywhere?

I'd rather not 'skip' an otherwise immaculate scooter but can't spend £1000 chasing a fault on just one machine !

Thanks in advance.........

Spirochete

[Burgerman]

It has two 75Ah batteries which after standing for 3 or 4 hours after charging both measure 12.55v.

A fully charged deep cycle battery with reasonable health will be 12.95 to 13.15V after standing a few hours after charge.


UNLESS
the battery is beyond useful service life, bad cell etc.
the battery isnt properly charged, and most mobility chargers are junk.
the scooter has some resisual drain happening all the time.
your volt beter isnt accurate.

Both batteries hold up when a battery load tester is applied across the terminals.......so the batteries are not new but appear OK.

Define "hold up" ?

What current, and as you do this how quickly does the voltage decay and to what level?

Batteries can age and keep good apacity but go high resistance. And a scooter pulls a high current when you accelerate. If voltage drops too low it will give errors.

Also could be motor brushes.
12.55 would be faulty or dischaged to around 75% full. Doesent mean the voltage wont drop below that required under load.

[Spirochete]

Thanks for the reply,

By 'hold-up' I meant that with a battery tester attached and then the 'load' switch pressed for 8-10 secs, the voltage drops slightly but holds steady at the lower end of the section marked 'good'.

Don't want to get too bogged down with the batteries as the scooter performs well ( when it works), plus the batteries were being tested in a cold garage (5'C ?) which is not ideal.

Question was really one of any ideas why when I turn it on with the key after it sitting for a while, I get two flashing red error bars which are listed as 'bad motor connection' - but there is no sign of a bad connection / junction anywhere. Disconnect a battery terminal for a few hours and reconnect......and it works fine......until next time.

My logic says that when switched on, the controller doesn't think the motor is attached, ( it is), but by allowing any residual charge in the scooter's circuitry to decay away to zero - something is re-setting ?

Haven't checked the brushes 2B honest - I'll make that this morning's job.

The other aspect was a question of whether there is any PC software out there that would let me look at the controller's fault log for a bit more detail to see what's going on.....rather than just a flashing light.

Thanks again,

Spiro'

[Burgerman]

There is, I doubt it will help though.
You can get a cable made that will connect with software - contact woodyGB on this forum by PM.

By 'hold-up' I meant that with a battery tester attached and then the 'load' switch pressed for 8-10 secs, the voltage drops slightly but holds steady at the lower end of the section marked 'good'.

Those things tell us nothing useful and only put a small current through them. Tpically 20 to 25A. And what voltage is "good"??

I still think this may be a battery issue. Or a breaker thats high resistance, bad connection. MAY be brushes.

[Spirochete]

Thanks for the thoughts........gives me a few more avenues to try.

Have another smaller Kymco scooter here with (obviously) smaller batteries that are reasonably new.
They don't have the current delivery to drive the motor on the Mini Crosser but if substituted might
shed some light on the switch-on fault....( as long as I don't try and drive it! )

Anyway, first.......off to extract the 4 motor brushes and see what they are like.

Will post any meaningful outcomes.



Spiro'

[ex-Gooserider]

If all else fails, you should be able to pick up a decent 2nd hand controller from the Bay of E at a fairly reasonable price...

I have also had problematic motors on my chair that apparently had one bad armature wire - the brushes were OK... If the chair stopped in the wrong spot I'd get a motor error, move a few inches and power cycle, it would run fine. If it stopped in other places it would run fine... Definite pain in the butt for the day or so it took for me to make the time to fix it...

ex-Gooserider

[biscuit]

Check the freewheel levers are fully in position too.

[Spirochete]

Hello members and 'Happy New Year' !

Thanks to everyone who replied / tried to help.........

Update - problem isolated and solved......

Based on the error light sequence I was getting:- ( two bars - Bad Motor Connection )

and given that the error light would stay the same even if I completely disconnected the motor......

and also that the problem would often temporarily resolve if I left the batteries disconnected overnight.......

This then progressed after a few days to a permanent three bars - 'Motor short'

I decided to remove the S-Drive controller and look inside for evidence of bad capacitors / burning:

Result?.......all seven electrolytic capacitors blown or popped with electrolyte evident all over the underside of the top lid.

Carefully desoldered them and ordered in some good quality replacements from a known UK source.

Fitted new Caps yesterday / cleaned up all the leaked muck on the board, carefully reassembled and refitted controller, switched on.....

All the error lights gone and scooter behaving normally !!

Also have the 12 replacement MOSFETS on order in case they are below par and will fit them in a few days.

So - looks like I'm 'there' ....total cost of about £45 for parts and postage plus about 10 hours of my time chasing this fault.

Maybe this will also help someone else

Regards to all

Spiro'

( pic of bulging / blown 50v 470mF caps below )

[Spirochete]

............. I should perhaps add as a footnote to the above:-

The controller I have here is an S-Drive 180 and a pre-programmed replacement from Medema looks like being around £600 delivered.

The controller is quite substantial in its construction and is held together with socket screws.

Careful disassembly reveals a board on which the power delivery side ( MOSFETS / CAPS) can be repaired if you have reasonable de-soldering / soldering skills.
( they do seem to have used high melting point solder on these).

The remainder (underside) of the board is a dense forest of small surface mount components which would be a nightmare to work on even if you could identify / get the parts.

Not advocating people tear their controllers apart but for me the fix was £40 rather than £600 - no brainer !

Spiro'

[Burgerman]

Thats very very odd. Got half a dozen controllers here that go back to te late 90s. ALL are fine.

Maybe over voltage or high regen voltage and bad battery connection or something allowing voltage to spike as energy nowhere to go.

[Spirochete]

Hi Burgerman,

Possibly - I don't know its earlier service history so no clues there.

Time will tell I guess - if the same problem comes back then maybe I'll have to look further / deeper.

I hope not!

I have read elsewhere that this generation of controllers did suffer from heat related problems.....

I'll pay particular attention to good heatsink joints both within the controller and the mountings on final assembly.

Spiro'

[Nuh666]

Hello,
May anyone send me a link to the PC OEM programmer Software too?
Thank you

[Burgerman]

See PM

[iansp]

Hi, I hope someone can help me. I’ve got the dealer software which as known is limited on parameters available, software works with the cable I made. I would like to find the full software to check/amend other parameters, I have a Pride Colt Scooter with S drive 70Amp controller. Hope I have given enough information for someone to help. Many thanks Ian.

[Burgerman]

Done!

[smailuk]

Hello to everyone! I am new here!
I am trying to connect to S-Drive 120A (made adapter based on FT232RL USB TTL Serial Port Adapter , added 47kOhm resistor between 5v and rxd, 1n4148 diode ).
Using win10. Adapter itself is working (tested by terminal when rx and tx are connected sended will match recived )
I have 2 program version Mobility Pc Programmer 14.4.3 and 14.6 (both of them can see adapter and when are started led blinks on adapter , so I suppose program is sending info to controller), but comms inactiv (
Saw some where here that member expirience the same problem and was solved by industrial software. I would like to try, so maybe someone will share a link?
by the way, the main problem with my controller - it fault on screen 4 bars blinking Parking Brake OFF. ( if parking brake in different position it shows faulty with 9 bars blinking Solenoid Brake Trip. But parking brake has 30 ohm resistance and work grate if 24v are aplied directly. So need to connect diagnose to se log with fault.

thnks in advance for any hint

[ex-Gooserider]

Speculating a bit here, but I'd check the switch on the brake release lever and the wiring to / from it... The switch is supposed to keep the scooter from moving under power when the brake release is keeping the brake off... If the switch / wiring is bad, it may be sending the wrong signals to the controller...

ex-Gooserider