expresso wrote:if its lead - what kind of charge do they give you - the charger shows a percentage ?
those chargers at least that i know from all the others - just show a orange light as charging - green when done - but its not really done -
i never seen a charger from bounder - other than the lithium charger they gave me which i dont use - i use the PL8
you need lithium with the bounder more than any other chair - its heavy and even 100ah wont last isnt enough - most you may get is 30 miles out of it - depends on your riding style and ground - you may do that much with slower speeds also - maybe a bit more -
but still - fit as much as you can in the box and you be fine - you could also just make a ADD ON till your ready for the full chair ? if you can - do the full chair inside box and leave it alone
expresso wrote:i didnt think of that - it could be set up for lithium -
on my JS theres a blue light - means its lithium -
on my friends chair - he has lithium also - and it was not set up for lithium on his
check that and make sure its set up for Lead -
So after a day of heavy use and alot of battery it will take me allmost two days to fully charge which i cant do so that means im only getting 85% charge each time.. Im using the charger that came with the chair.
Burgerman wrote:If the charger works properly then the chair went quickly from whatever it was at to 2x the following. 14.1 (GEL) to 14.4 to 14.7V CV stage. It sat at thgis 14.x volts, for 5 to 8 hours. Then it dropped the voltage to 13.5 to 13.8V on a permanant long term float.
So... All the controller and your phone app saw was that the battery sat for many hours at 14.x Volts then it dropped to 13.6ish volts indefinitely.
Now consider this.
A battery that is 100% full falls to less than 13.4V after a few mins when unplugged from the charger. Depending on battery type, make, agew, etc it will continue to fall until around 12.9V after a day, or a week. Its important to understand that its STILL full.
So 100% charged can be from 14.7V down to 12.95V. a large range.
Now consider that I can take a 50% charged battery. And charge at 40 Amps for a liuteral couple of mins. And then stop. It will be at best 55% FULL. Its voltage may now be 13.5V a couple of mins after charging. So it will READ and appear FULL. After waiting TWENTY FOUR HOURS it will read aprox 12.5 volts. As its really still half charged.
I can take the fully CHARGED 100% battery, and use it to crank a truck. I may remove just 5Ah. But its voltage will be depressed. Due to surface charge effect. Its still 95% charged but its voltage may read 12.6/12.7 a couple of mins after starting that truck. So it will appear to be 65% charged.
So you tell me. A BATTERY GAUGE that woorks on voltage. HOW can it ever tell you if that battery is full or not.
Theres ONLY 1 way to tell a lead barttery state of charge.
1. DISCONNECT it from all chargers or loads. And no, turning a powerchair off does NOT do that!
2. wait at least a day.
3. using a CALIBRATED quality multimeter measure open circuit voltage and battery temperature.
4. cross reference open circuit voltage / temp with the manufacturers specification. Every battery type, is slightly different depending on exact chemicals used.
There is no other way. And even this cant tell you range. Your chair may five you say 7 miles at "50%" based on voltage. And only 3miles on the last 50% and you grind to a halt at 32% one day, and 19% the next based on previous discharge rates during the day. So useless with added uselessness. The idea that they can mark a battery gauge in % points is worse than laughable.
aT BEST IT SHOULD BE MARKED:
GREEN = SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 70% AND FULL
YELLOW = SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 30 AND 70% MAYBE?
RED = STOP ANYTIME AT ALL AT RANDOM. POSSIBLY...
And thats not a fault of the gauge. Its the fact that its fundamentally unknowable.
Burgerman wrote:So after a day of heavy use and alot of battery it will take me allmost two days to fully charge which i cant do so that means im only getting 85% charge each time.. Im using the charger that came with the chair.
ALL lead batteries take around 16 hours or longer to FULLY 100% CHARGE. That applies esp to gel. But also 14 to 18 hours with agm too., Theres no charger that can speed that up.
Your CONTROLLER has no way to determing if they are fully cgharged/saturated. So its guessing.
With a sensible sized charger 8 to 10 hours sees a battery at least 99% charged. Ignore your 85% thing it cannot know.
Does that 1% matter? It will not affect range significantly. It will mean that 1% of the battery acid remains as lead sulfate coating the plates. If you do this daily your battery soon ends up junk. And thats what almost every mobility charger does. They sulfate your batteries through incomplete charge. And they usually overvolt gel batteries causing further issues.
Lead batteries typically take 16 to 20 hours to charge FULLY.
This is an odyssey battery. Those are low impedance and charge FASTER than any other lead battery.
Here its being charged at FORTY AMPS and at the recommended 14.7V in cyclic use.
Note that even with a 40A charge, its taken almost 10 hours and the current is still naturally falling so its not done yet! Its at 133mA at the end of the graph. You cannot make this speed up. 2 graphs show current in Amps. And Volts. Vs time. When current drops to 1000th of capacity its 99.99% charged. If it doesent manage that then you must then go to lower voltage float for another 6 to 12 hours. Here it got top the 120mA figure (120Ah battery) in 10 hours just.
expresso wrote:Call your vendor who got you the chair - let them know the Lead is not working out etc, and see if they can do something to get the process going to put in for the Lithium - i got mines covered and a few others have - But it depends on what insurance you have -
Medicare and Medicaid ? also is your Medicaid tied to a MLTC company - which then decides - usually they will deny - but if you can get a good Therapist and ATP to work with you - write a Justification letter as to why you need them etc, etc, - and submit it -
if you get denied - you can appeal it - if denied again - then fair hearing - - that would be the final word on it -
worse case you make it yourself - and fill it up with 200ah - 100ah isnt enough anyway - once you go lithium - you dont need to worry about monitoring it anyway - you have the Pl8 to charge and monitor data etc, -
expresso wrote:Call your vendor who got you the chair - let them know the Lead is not working out etc, and see if they can do something to get the process going to put in for the Lithium - i got mines covered and a few others have - But it depends on what insurance you have -
Medicare and Medicaid ? also is your Medicaid tied to a MLTC company - which then decides - usually they will deny - but if you can get a good Therapist and ATP to work with you - write a Justification letter as to why you need them etc, etc, - and submit it -
if you get denied - you can appeal it - if denied again - then fair hearing - - that would be the final word on it -
worse case you make it yourself - and fill it up with 200ah - 100ah isnt enough anyway - once you go lithium - you dont need to worry about monitoring it anyway - you have the Pl8 to charge and monitor data etc, -
expresso wrote:check them after each ride - till they settle down and stay put - it will depend how much you use it - can be 6 times - give or take
how much slack do you give them ? i realized at least with me - that if i dont have a bit more slack that you would think is needed - they run tight and sound rough - if you notice when you move the JS to move the chair - they tighten up and then get slack when you let go
i try to use that as a quide to how tight to make them - also the clutch they call it - to open and close where you get to the nut to adjust - shouldnt be too hard to close by hand - and not too easy either - a nice firm solid feel that can be done without struggling to close -
now i want to check mines again - its been a long time since i did -
expresso wrote:it is easy enough - but as you know- easy is not always easy for many - most dont want to do anything at all - just plug and play thats it
and if you dont have someone who can do it for you with a half a brain - it wont be easy - its how much you want to do it and make it work
a friend of mines - he got one flat - didnt even know - i seen some slime on the tire - he went to all solid form now - he cant handle it -
he dosnt pay any attention what he rides over - and dosnt want to be bothered - now he got the bounder that he wanted and knew it had chains - but dosnt teach his girl to clean them - adjust them etc, - he used it maybe dozen times at most - going on 3 years -
hes plug and play - and the 100ah lithium dosnt take him that far as he though - so hes upset - if he wants to go far - he needs a pack on the back ADD ON - he wont do - dosnt want to spend the money - charger PSU - dosnt want to learn to do it - etc,
you cant help him - i even made him a ADD ON Cable - i would lend him a ADD ON pack when he wants to ride with me - -45ah - would be enough - still havnt done it - i am sure his pack is not fully balanced also -
the idea was i would lend him my pack and take it back at end of trip so i can recharge it - but that can only work one in a while - cant do that each day -
i gave up and dont bother asking him anything about his chairs or going out etc, -
Burgerman wrote:Why would it show "full"?
How does it know?
expresso wrote:check them after each ride - till they settle down and stay put - it will depend how much you use it - can be 6 times - give or take
how much slack do you give them ? i realized at least with me - that if i dont have a bit more slack that you would think is needed - they run tight and sound rough - if you notice when you move the JS to move the chair - they tighten up and then get slack when you let go
i try to use that as a quide to how tight to make them - also the clutch they call it - to open and close where you get to the nut to adjust - shouldnt be too hard to close by hand - and not too easy either - a nice firm solid feel that can be done without struggling to close -
now i want to check mines again - its been a long time since i did -
Burgerman wrote:rEMEMBER THAT While it does some other stuff, it basically is a volt meter. And can be calibrated any number of ways, to suit different batteries and different chargers.
Is 12.9V fully charged?
Or is 13.4V fully charged? The answer is that even 12.6V can be fully charged if you take a short blip of high amps from the battery.
And that 12.8V can be 75% CHARGED... If its just been sat.
Which of these voltages should red what on your percentage scale?
Its all nonsense.
I could adjust it so that it reads 100% AT 12.8v and you would feel better. But the batter may be full. Or may be at 80% in reality. Same battery.
Most battery gauges are the opposite. They read full with anything above about 12.8v per battery. And they might be at 80% OR FULL. Who knows.
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