ZXD2400 New User

[Arima]

Started a new thread since the ZXD is available with the mods already done. I guess what I am learning is that some of the setup has already been done and it's not mandatory to go thru the calibration menu options 1-4. Although I hope to understand that process better with experience. Using a budget multimeter, reads 3.994 when the ZXD output reads 4.04. Also 14.28 on the multimeter reads 14.38 on ZXD. And 27.40 on the multimeter reads 25.58 on the ZXD. Seems close enough to me?

When powerup on the ZXD I get the display shown in the 1st photo.

It is flashing and quickly switches to the display in the second photo. Multimeter only reads 3.99...I never get the 7.9 volt reading.

Somewhere I caused this to happen and I don't understand how yet. I'm guessing I did it when toggling thru the many various menu options. Or possibly it is normal If anyone can clarify I'd appreciate it. What is it, why do I want it, how do I get back to the 1st display without it switching to the 2nd?

[Burgerman]

The menu, the short presses, the press and hold, the various flashing numbers etc are all highly non intuitive to begin with. Yes you dont need to do anything other than use it. After a bit it all becomes far easier and more untuitive.

First. What are you trying to do?

Is it configured as a power supply? Or as a (3 stage) charger?

You can charge lead as a simple power supply too.

Play with it, a lot, and read that translated menu list/options. Then you will get it. It will click.

[Arima]

I'm trying to learn more about batteries and maintaining and using them SAFELY. It appears I'm going to be dependent on them for the rest of my life. Work my way toward building an add on pack. Possibly go full lithium some day. When I registered here I was still confused of the differences between serial and parallel. And unaware of the many different chemistries involved. Everything I see and experience helps my understanding. I seem to retain things much better with some hands on.

I do not have an immediate daily use case for the ZXD. My 1st goal is to be able to read the display and understand what it is telling me. Navigating thru the menus is much easier today than it was yesterday. Understanding the settings and how to change them for use as a power supply vs 3 stage charger is still a problem. I don't know how to answer the question " how is it configured?". I expect it to have all those capabilities out of the box. I do not expect it to sense my purpose automatically by just turning it on. I need to set the settings for whatever my purpose is for the day. I don't know how to do that yet. Sorry for the windy reply.

Just bought some more rechargeable AA for mice and remotes and flashlights etc. Should be able to charge them efficiently with the ZXD? Thinking about this makes me ask what is the difference between a rechargeable battery and one that is sold as disposable? I don't have one in front of me but they are different chemistries...alkaline vs NiMH. I think there are others like Nickel Cadmium too. In my limited mind charging a rechargeable AA should follow the same process as a lead wheelchair battery. Constant current (bulk), Constant Voltage (absorption), and more Constant voltage (float). If thats not true I need to backup before going forward.

You can charge lead as a simple power supply too.

Thought this would be the same thing as using the ZXD in 3 stage charge mode. Now will be looking for the differences when I reread some of the old post. You're making me think about it now. Is this the part where you skip the float step?

I'll probably stick to smaller batteries before trying anything of size for now. I need it all to be safe or I shouldn't be messing around with any of it. Have a couple drill batteries to learn about also. At least now since I joined here the labels on batteries have some meaning to me:)

[shirley_hkg]

Your's may be different from ours. Ours took 15 seconds to enter （Auto Calibration menu ）, and into factory menu for 3 seconds.

A little nervous about all this...When holding the encoder for 3 seconds after startup I get the "FACTORY n.NODE" msg and

[LROBBINS]

Ni (metal hydride or cadmium) is NOT charged in the same way as lead - if you try to do so you will likely get a runaway and destroy them. I don't know if the ZXD can be set up for them in any case.

[Burgerman]

Use the PL8 for nickel based batteries, it does delta peak constant current charge that they need. It monitors voltage climb untill it see a small voltage depression and then it stops. For that to work you charge at around half C in amps. Theyare very difficult to charge properly.


Lead, cyclic use, no cell balance required, charge CC (constant current) limited to around 1/4 to 1/3rd the battery capacity in Amps, and then CV of 14.1 for gel, 14.4 to 14.6 for AGM. This continues till current falls to a very low level. Takes around 3 or 4 hours for a almost full battery. And around 12 hours for a fully discharged one. If it drops to 100th the battery capacity (so 1A on a 100Ah battery) its 99.5% full. The rest can be added and is beneficial, by using a lower float voltage of 13.5 to 13.6V for another 24 hours. And can be left connected continuously for a week. If you want to keep them healthy over a month to years use 13.45V.

Lithium is simiar CC/CV stages.
Lithium ion (laptop type batteries) and lithium polymer, CC at various rates. CV stage at 4.20V per cell. So a 3 cell battery = 4.2 x 3 = 12.600V total but MUST use a charger that balances the cells. With cell tap connections. So PL8...

Lithum ion phosphate, LIFEPO4, use the same method but at a max of 3.600V per cell. You stop with al lithium cell batteries when a) all cells are equal and balanced. and b) when current falls to a very low level. Say 20 mins after balance achieved. Max 1 hour after balance achieved and every cell at the final voltage.

[Arima]

Your's may be different from ours. Ours took 15 seconds to enter （Auto Calibration menu ）, and into factory menu for 3 seconds.

Yes I think I may have purchased an older version. I can access the Factory Menu...but not the User Menu. Think I'll make another video of the boot process showing the issues. The 15 second hold on bootup did take me to a different menu. But I need to fart around with it some more before any conclusion.

Ni (metal hydride or cadmium) is NOT charged in the same way as lead - if you try to do so you will likely get a runaway and destroy them. I don't know if the ZXD can be set up for them in any case.

Thats what I want to avoid...a fire would totally ruin my day.

Use the PL8 for nickel based batteries, it does delta peak constant current charge that they need. It monitors voltage climb untill it see a small voltage depression and then it stops. For that to work you charge at around half C in amps. Theyare very difficult to charge properly.

Lead, cyclic use, no cell balance required, charge CC (constant current) limited to around 1/4 to 1/3rd the battery capacity in Amps, and then CV of 14.1 for gel, 14.4 to 14.6 for AGM. This continues till current falls to a very low level. Takes around 3 or 4 hours for a almost full battery. And around 12 hours for a fully discharged one. If it drops to 100th the battery capacity (so 1A on a 100Ah battery) its 99.5% full. The rest can be added and is beneficial, by using a lower float voltage of 13.5 to 13.6V for another 24 hours. And can be left connected continuously for a week. If you want to keep them healthy over a month to years use 13.45V.

Lithium is simiar CC/CV stages.
Lithium ion (laptop type batteries) and lithium polymer, CC at various rates. CV stage at 4.20V per cell. So a 3 cell battery = 4.2 x 3 = 12.600V total but MUST use a charger that balances the cells. With cell tap connections. So PL8...

Lithum ion phosphate, LIFEPO4, use the same method but at a max of 3.600V per cell. You stop with al lithium cell batteries when a) all cells are equal and balanced. and b) when current falls to a very low level. Say 20 mins after balance achieved. Max 1 hour after balance achieved and every cell at the final voltage.

Some day I am going to have all this memorized.

[Burgerman]

I have a hell of a lot more than this memorised! I could write thousands of pages. But the above is all you need to start charging lead at least safely.

Its really not that complicated though. Earlier today I went to my old analog bench supply, set it to 28.8V as its AGM and they can take up to 29.4V. At 20C. But its 24C And the batts are warmer as I just hammered them... So I set 14.4V due to warm day. And wacked the amps up to max, then plugged the anderson into my chair. That has put at least 30Ah back in around an hour so I can go out later. It charged at 40A for a good while then has reduced down to around 12A naturally over time. Thats simple right?

If I had left it for around 8 hours it would be down to around 200mA and charged fully (99%).

[Arima]

Wanted to show off my ZXD2400 modified power supply bought off one of the online stores. It has a special balancing feature no other ZXD2400 has. It tells you when it's not balanced level lol. Be careful what you buy!

https://youtu.be/d_56vRfhwAk

[Burgerman]

I might take that apart and remove whatever it is before it shorts something.

[ex-Gooserider]

Agreed on the open it up and find the noise... If you didn't have it powered on, it is probably a loose screw or other hardware, and definitely poses a risk of causing smoke loss if not fixed before powering up.

One of the things I noticed when doing the mods and fancy kit on mine is that there are a bunch of big coils that are very close, if not touching, the case. These coils appear to just have varnish coating on the wire, which is NOT going to be very abrasion resistant - it is more a corrosion preventer than an insulator.

The original stock case had several fiberboard inserts (like thin PC board material) in it to prevent the coils from making contact with the metal case. When I was moving the unit into the fancy case, I peeled those sheets off the inside of the stock case and put them on the insides of the fancy case in about the same place. If the unit you bought doesn't have similar insulating panels inside the case, I'd STRONGLY advise adding them... About the only area that should NOT have some insulation is where the side panels screw onto the aluminum heat sinks. (Probably isn't necessary, but I put some thermal transfer past on those when putting the panels on - help turn the sides into more cooling...)

ex-Gooserider