Maximum torque on Bounder 300 and 450 models

[SweetBearCub]

Both of these models seem to have the same standard and lower speed options, only differing speed wise in the higher optional speeds.

From the order forms, I have no idea what the codes mean:

"6.0 MPH, 4M13 C60 C23" (standard speed)
"4.8 MPH, 4M13 C70 C21" (more torque? unknown)

That's all they say, so I'm not sure how they differ. If I were to guess, it looks like both options use the same ST4 (6 pole!) motor, but maybe different sprockets and chains. I'm seriously considering the 450 model for my next chair, but don't want to have to pick the 4.8 MPH option if the 6.0 MPH option will be just as good.

The faster speed options specify the ST3 motor, which, lacking details, I suppose is faster but has less torque?

My eventual goal is to find someone in the US to change it over to a Roboteq controller and lithium power, but I'm not sure how involved that will be. I can buy the pieces, but I am not qualified to do the work myself.

[fishinjunky]

Both of these models seem to have the same standard and lower speed options, only differing speed wise in the higher optional speeds.

From the order forms, I have no idea what the codes mean:

"6.0 MPH, 4M13 C60 C23" (standard speed)
"4.8 MPH, 4M13 C70 C21" (more torque? unknown)

That's all they say, so I'm not sure how they differ. If I were to guess, it looks like both options use the same ST4 (6 pole!) motor, but maybe different sprockets and chains. I'm seriously considering the 450 model for my next chair, but don't want to have to pick the 4.8 MPH option if the 6.0 MPH option will be just as good.

The faster speed options specify the ST3 motor, which, lacking details, I suppose is faster but has less torque?

My eventual goal is to find someone in the US to change it over to a Roboteq controller and lithium power, but I'm not sure how involved that will be. I can buy the pieces, but I am not qualified to do the work myself.

BM will explain this better. But you want to get the st4 motors ( more torque ) the difference in speeds on the 450 model is because of sprockets i believe you can only get st4 motors on the 450 model. but i would get the 6mph sprocket 4.8mps is slow. But that depends on your weight and if you have a lot of hills the 4.8mph may be better for you. You can call them they are very helpful with everything.
im in the process of installing a 200ah lithium pack in my bounder 300m. Ive also considered installing 48v roboteq in the future but im just researching roboteq for now. Its fairly easy to install lithium. But roboteq is very technical and complicated.

[Burgerman]

With bounder you want the lowest impedance motors. (thicker wire, less turns = higher current and more RPM) which presumably would be the faster motors??? I dont have a bounder so cant say. But impedance = the difference between good or bad motors. Lower is better. But not for efficiency in a wheelchair. PEAK torque, i.e. digging yorself out of a hole depends only on max speed after gearing is taken into account. And the max current that the CONTROLLER allows. So 120A.

As for roboteq its VERY complex and I wish you luck getting a third party that could do this well enough or even undestand it well enough. If you cannot do this and fully nderstand the manual, and the dedicated pinned thread completely yourself, then the idea really is a non starter.

[LROBBINS]

As the developer of the Roboteq wheelchair script and a full CANbus system for it, I strongly second this:

As for roboteq its VERY complex and I wish you luck getting a third party that could do this well enough or even undestand it well enough. If you cannot do this and fully nderstand the manual, and the dedicated pinned thread completely yourself, then the idea really is a non starter.

[fishinjunky]

As the developer of the Roboteq wheelchair script and a full CANbus system for it, I strongly second this:

As for roboteq its VERY complex and I wish you luck getting a third party that could do this well enough or even undestand it well enough. If you cannot do this and fully nderstand the manual, and the dedicated pinned thread completely yourself, then the idea really is a non starter.

Im going to try spending the next 4 years educating my self. That's when I'm due for a new chair then I'll have my current chair as a spare that I can test with an install roboteq MAYBE if I get to where I'm confident enough to do it. Big maybe.

[Burgerman]

Take a look under my seat.

And thats the easy part.

You need to gut an old joystick, fit a different joystick unit and MAKE the rest. And understand why and how. And then theres programming, configuration, safety, contactors, etc. And its not simple.

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... ronics.jpg
DIY joystick
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -small.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -small.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... e-made.jpg
sensors
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... derson.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... ensors.jpg


You also need RCfor safe testing and inverters, roboteq output protection SSRs and a power relay controlled by a mosfet fail system to stop it running away... And much more. And you MUST know why you need everything and how all thse things work together YOURSELF in order to both wire it safely, make it work properly, to calibrate and configure everything, hor to modify the roboteq settings and for to change the script settings to configure how it is cintrolled, which ports it uses etc.

Current code, ongoing.
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... pt-bot.txt

Trust me thats only a part of it Theres no instructions. Thres no guide. Threres no parts list. Theres no garantees. And theres only your understanding of things like ohms law, basic electronics, and the ability to build it better than the manufacturer could as a team of 1.

[fishinjunky]

Take a look under my seat.

And thats the easy part.

You need to gut an old joystick, fit a different joystick unit and MAKE the rest. And understand why and how. And then theres programming, configuration, safety, contactors, etc. And its not simple.

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... ronics.jpg
DIY joystick
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -small.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... -small.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... e-made.jpg
sensors
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... derson.jpg
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... ensors.jpg


You also need RCfor safe testing and inverters, roboteq output protection SSRs and a power relay controlled by a mosfet fail system to stop it running away... And much more. And you MUST know why you need everything and how all thse things work together YOURSELF in order to both wire it safely, make it work properly, to calibrate and configure everything, hor to modify the roboteq settings and for to change the script settings to configure how it is cintrolled, which ports it uses etc.

Current code, ongoing.
https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM3-co ... pt-bot.txt

Trust me thats only a part of it Theres no instructions. Thres no guide. Threres no parts list. Theres no garantees. And theres only your understanding of things like ohms law, basic electronics, and the ability to build it better than the manufacturer could as a team of 1.

Honestly WOW!!!

[Burgerman]

Lenny is the brain behind the script without which it is simply impossible. And of course the motor load compensation which is absolutely essential and which everything else depends on.