larger feet rest for quantum 6000z ergonomy is important

[yeshelp]

HI ,

I have a quantum 6000z for summer and it always annoys me that i have to put my feet too much in between my knees for my liking.

If i put my feet at the same larger to my knees( good practice for ergonomy), half of each feet are on the platform and the rest is in the air wich leads to an over extention of my ankles.

I want a larger platform slightly longer too . do you have any suggestions ?
maybe they already exist, maybe not.

i though of using a metal plate to cut(with a buffer) it according to my desire and create 4? holes in the platform.

what material should i use and what thickness( maybe aluminium since it is cheaper that stainless steel?)
the thinner the better to avoid lifting my leg too much. I would avoid wood since water will damage it .

Also maybe a bigger interrogation for me is the following :
what system ca I use to fix it on the platform without having protruding on top of the new platform ( annoying to have feet on top of a 1cm bolt extremity. and also to avoid having to much of metal protrusion under the platform.

would glue be enough? i doubt it since sometimes i hit sidewalk with the platform.
would only 2 holes right in the middle be sufficiently strong holding of the plate? (my feet will never rest directly in the middle .

you can use a picture to express your idea with paint software if you want .

thanks

[Burgerman]

Make whatever shape you want from 3mm alloy plate and bolt it on.

Countersink the holes, and use countersunk bolts. So its flush.

[yeshelp]

Hello Burgerman!

Interesting, interesting .
Are you sure that 3mm is strong enoug , im my head aluminium is very pliable.
When you say alloy do you mean want industry give when you ask for aluminium of do you mean a special mix of metal that includes aluminium?
Wont a contersunk hole just go through the plate since it is so slim?
thanks

[Burgerman]

Pure aluminium doesent really exist other than milk bottle tops...

All the aluminium you buy in plate form is an alloy with some copper and other metals for strength.

Sold as dural (inium) etc.

And you are also bolting it to an existing base.

If you use say 4x 4mm stainless countersunk bolts and countersink the aluminium plate they will be flush. If you use big bolts then they wont!

This is 4mm plate since it has no existing plate to bolt onto.
Use 4mm if you think it needs to be this thick. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... cat=182928

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/powerchair2.htm Scroll down...

[LROBBINS]

Here in Italy, 99% pure 1000-series aluminum is widely available. If it is sold in Canada, DO NOT USE IT - it is about as strong as Jello. Common, and much stronger, U.S. alloys are 6061 and 6063, with 6061 being about 30% stronger than 6061. The European equivalents are 6082 (like 6061 and stronger) and 6060 (like 6063 and weaker). 3mm or 1/8" 6061 or 6082 are more than strong enough, even if you push hard on your feet. 3 mm, 1/8" 6063 and 6060 almost surely be more than strong enough too. Dural(uminum) actually refers to 2024, which is a bit stronger still, but corrosion prone, and there are 7000 series alloys that are even stronger, but quite expensive.

[yeshelp]

Pu



If you use say 4x 4mm stainless countersunk bolts and countersink the aluminium plate they will be flush. If you use big bolts then they wont!

what does the 4mm in 4x4mm stands for? the total lenght of the bolt?
there something i dont understand. if the bolt is 4 mm long and the aluminium plate is 3mm thick it only leaves one mm to grab into something. that does not work.
into what exacty will the bolt hold to? i was thinking of drilling holes through the stock leg rest wich is 2.5mm. and have a long enough bolt to get a grip into a nut. is that the way to go?

the link you provided to the web page , was it to show me what a countersink bolt look like or you wanted me to look at something else?

Aslo are you suggestion 4 mm alloy plate instead of 3 mm?
thanks
n...

[shirley_hkg]

Cut a slot to allow the aluminum plate to cover the whole area. Otherwise , your ankles will find it uncomfortable by resting on uneven surface.

3mm will be good , with 5mm /6mm bolts.
4mm plate is good too, but it is a waste of material, in an engineer's view.

[yeshelp]

Hello Burgerman and all
i look for clarity about this 3mm will be good , with 5mm /6mm bolts.

does that mean you recommand to only have 2 mm going into the stock legrest? i feel something i dont get in what your are trying to convey..
how to make the threads in the stock foot rest? 2 mm does not seem to penetrate enough to my unexperienced eye.

is the idea to pass bolt completely throug the stoke leg rest and tigh it with a nut bad?

[Burgerman]

You lost me.

Use 3mm OR 4mm plate, and M4 countersunk bolts. Drill and counterink the new plate top for cleaance with a 4mm drill. And a countersink bit till they sit flush. Drill te existing plate with a 3.5mm drill. And use an M4 tap to make the thread. Or just use a nut on the bottom.

https://www.trfastenings.com/Products/C ... 006704-000

[LROBBINS]

to yeshelp,

3mm will be good , with 5mm /6mm bolts

The "5mm/6mm" refers to diameter (i.e. M5 or M6, but as Burgerman says Mt is quite sufficient). Use whatever length is needed to either go into tapped holes or all the way through with a nut on the end.

[Burgerman]

Except that M4 is better. Because it will be easy to countersink FLUSH so nothing protrudes and is more than adequate to locate the extra bit on top.

https://www.trfastenings.com/Products/C ... 006704-000

[yeshelp]

ok thanks for the precision i understand better now the strategie.

i have regular drilling bits to drill through the stock leg rest.

i i use a larger diameter bit just a little bit on top of the alloy, will it create the conic shape or do i need a Countersunk drill for that?

in metal or like diped it harder material?

thanks

[LROBBINS]

Yes. you need a countersink bit. A drill bit has an 82o angle, a metric flat head bolt has a 45o angle.

[Burgerman]

Then after countersinking you will have a 4mm hole, and a countersunk top. Your small 4mm bolt heads will be flush with the surface.

If you have a completely flat existing footplate then 3mm sheet will be enough. If its not, and you overtighten the bolts then 3mm may bend. So if I were you I would use 4mm. With countersunk M5 bolts.

You will want rounded corners too or it will gouge out massive chunks of doors, catch on things, and possibly injure anyone it hits...

Not rectangular like your drawing.
If you draw out what you want accurately, you can get this laser cut online and delivered to your door any shape you want.

[yeshelp]

hum tx for all that.
any site that lazer cut deliver you could recommand?
thank

[Burgerman]

I have used a bunch of different ones here in the UK but you need a local one.
There are lots online. Some use waterjets, some use lasers. Can cut up to around 30mm thick. I use them to cut out footplates and wheel spacer/adapters etc.