CJSM2 Screen protector

[Burgerman]

There may be a lot of people here with R-Net CJSM2 joysticks. I have 5 of the things myself.

The screens are soft and scratch easily. So I am going to use my micrometer and order a bunch of custom sized 0.3mm thick 9H hard glass screen protectors. I need to order a fair amount or the price is a bit crazy. Is anyone else interested?

When these are fitted they are almost impossible to detect if the ones on my Nikon Z8 are anything to go by. And so hard that you cant scratch it with a screwdriver. I tried. Super shiny too.

Because the screen is not recessed it will mean a 0.3mm (about 2 human hairs) thick lip around the edge. Fittng them isnt easy. I used 3 before I got one on my camera screen in a way that is totally perfect/invisible. But I now have the "skill"... Can do them every time!

So let me know in the next few days.
If a screen is already a little scratched the type of adhesive used is such that it sort of hides it. So unless its bad you will never see it afterwards. It sort of self ataches like magic. And just goes black on its own. I would photograph the one on my camera but I cant. Its on the camera!

Note! This will not work on a permobil joystick that LOOKS like a CJSM2 as they have smaller screens.

[Raro]

good idea, mine no longer makes sense to put it on apart from the fact that it is scratched, it has two lines in the middle of the screen that do not light up, the buttons on the side of the screen barely work and are detached.

[Burgerman]

Well its too late for you.

How did you damage the buttons? Mine are all fine.

[Raro]

They were already like this, the chair was used. Those buttons are integrated into the entire rubber and you can see that someone took it off, probably to clean them. They are like those on television remote controls. The part of the button is conductive of electricity, as if it had a coating. graphite, (I have no idea what treatment they use) with use or if you try to clean them with alcohol they lose the rubber coating and stop working on the other hand, once you take them off it is difficult for them to adhere well again.

[Burgerman]

Its the rubber itself that has a high level of something like carbon impregnated. Theres no coating. If they dont work then clean any oil or oxides wih alcohol and the copper part with some fine abrasive. Then they will work again.

[Raro]

Yes, I have done it, the alcohol is not good, it degrades that impregnated conductive part and only the rubber remains, checked with a multimeter. The other copper part is perfect, some work but badly, you have to apply a lot of pressure and a long time.

[martin007]

Have you tried isopropyl alcohol?

[Raro]

Have you tried isopropyl alcohol?

Yes, it is what they say, it is correct, but it is too late, they are damaged.

[Burgerman]

Use this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/REMOTE-RESTORE ... B01M8LEOIV

I know it works. But you must totally clean up the rubber surface. With some abrasive. I used some 180 grit paper. Then a thin coat of the conductive rubberised paint and good as new. On several devices. Done properly it is a lasting fix.

[Raro]

I had read something but I understand that it does not usually last long, in fact in the product comments they say so but I will have to try it... the other problem is what type of adhesive to use to re-attach the button panel, it is a pain that they do not sell spare parts for these things.

[martin007]

You have thought about using cyanoacrylate...?

[Burgerman]

Are you sure they wont supply a set of buttons? Who did you ask?

[Raro]

You have thought about using cyanoacrylate...?

No, that would work perfectly, but the button panel could no longer be removed without breaking it.

[Raro]

Are you sure they wont supply a set of buttons? Who did you ask?

This is what they told me at orthopedics. I also looked at pgdt but I didn't see anything. I don't know how to contact them. Having a damaged screen, I don't know if the remote is worth it completely.

[martin007]

I don't trust orthopedics...

[Burgerman]

Orthopedics?

Email the manufacturer not some 3rd party. They are in the UK. Better still call them.

[Raro]

manufacturer's response from this morning:

We are sorry to hear your CJSM2 keypad is damaged. Unfortunately this is not field serviceable by end-users, so we would recommend you contact your local dealer for assistance.



Alternatively, you can send the CJSM2 to our UK Repair Centre, and it will be repaired for a nominal charge.



UK Repair Centre:



TAS Department

Penny & Giles Controls Ltd.

[Burgerman]

From memory and I never tried this but their repair service doesent work how you expect. Its like buying a car alternator... In that they want yours back, as a core part. And you get a plain box factory refurb which is for all intents and purposes a new one. At least it is completely indistinguishable from new. Even smells new! I have 3 on these bought from various sources. All came with screen protector, and looked brand new in every way however carefully you examined them. So expect that this nominal charge will maybe scare you!

[Raro]

As I wrote at the beginning, it is abusive that they do not supply wear parts in my case, although the remote has scratches and the screen has two lines that do not light up, everything works correctly, that button panel is externally adhesive and does not require any knowledge to replace it with the VR2 if it is available and is set in the same way.

[Burgerman]

Same applies to many things. Try getting parts for many things. For e.g laptops. The reason I buy dell is because I can get most parts and a 5 year warranty where it is repaired at my house usually next day. Try that with other brands.

Try getting parts for your TV. Or vacuum cleaner. Or even your cars alternator. Those are generally sold in the same way as other complete sub assemblies or as refurb/exchange. Same with gearboxes etc. Try ordering an armature or magnets or brushes or brush holders or bearing bushes, or shims or the casing, etc for the wiper or fan motors for e.g. Its just not economically viable to store, stock, all those things and keep track, part numbers, and inventory. And by the time you need them the whole assembly needs replacement anyway. Sounds like you also need a refurbed unit. Several different faults that you know of already. Needs new screen new display, new buttons. By the time you repaired those it becomes as cheap to just swap for a fully refurbed unit that is properly tested and garanteed.

It would be nice for all the parts to be available for the one in a thousand users that would be capable or interested in ordering them. But its obviously not viable economically or they would do exactly that. More sales = more profit and thats why they are in business.

[Raro]

Yes, they have all the parts, what do they recondition the used ones with? It's simply not interesting, it's better to sell a reconditioned one or even better new. Why is the horn button the same and is it available? Also the knob, the rubber and there is no more. This is what happens with each and every one of the things that surround us, use and throw away.

[Burgerman]

But the whole thing wears out pretty much together as yours has. The sensible solution is the buy a refurb and send them yours. Then for about the same cost you end up with new. And warranty. Parts wouldnt be cheaper. If they were and were profitable then they would be available now. The very fact that they offer refurbed ones that have been professionally rebuilt as new and certified is already better than most of the worlds products.

Thats how I bought 3 refurbed which are basically brand new but in a plain box for 125 to 150 each. Unused. Remanufactured. Eery part brand new as far as I can determine. Even the internals.

I got 3 of these. I removed the screen protector on one of them - they all came with on one of these. Basically they ARE new. For around 1/5th the cost.

[Burgerman]

And a few other bits so that I have 3 complete systems with top of range 3x CJSM2 joysticks, 3x 120A power modules, 3x ISM6L lighting and seating module, 3x connectors and looms and a huge bunch of bus cables in many lengths.


And thrown in with these things that I didnt need: a new LED joystick, a used but as new attendant joystick, a couple of bus cable multi connectors, and some HD battery cables etc. All of this, which is more than required for THREE complete rehab powerchairs complete with tilt,recline, lift, powered footrest length and angle and lights for around £1k total.

With other spares too. For eg lift/tilt module, set of 8mph 4 pole motors etc. And spare upholstery, wheels, many tyres, arm tops, etc. All the stuff that wears out for maybe 350 to £400 total. Theres nothing that can fail on any of my chairs that I cannot fix within a couple of hours. Its just a case of getting organised. Buying right.


I already had an OEM programming dongle.

[Burgerman]

Organise yourself!

3X 120A POWER MODULES... Already programmed and ready to swap out at a moments notice.

[Burgerman]

I have 3 of these seating/lighting modules.
ISM6 L (he L is lighting. The 6 is seating channels. The loom is for sunrise...

Heres 2 of them...

[Burgerman]

This is 1 complete system. Everything you need for a complex rehab powerchair with CJSM2 joystick, 120A power module, a ISM6-L for all seating functions and lights, indicators and hazards..

This is the complete electronics system on a complex rehab powerchair. 3 parts. 2 bus cables. (1 shown). You also need the battery wiring (loom) and the actuator loom. I have 3 sets of those too.

FULL SYSTEM:

[Raro]

You bought all those spare parts on eBay or similar, right? Currently I have not seen any that are worth it, much less with those prices you say, I will ask how much it costs to recondition one although it will not have a fixed price for sure.

[Burgerman]

I bought most on eBay. EBay germany, US, UK and other countries. And yes they are hard to find. Occasionally people put stuff on eBay at silly prices. You MUST set up alerts and check and search this stuff several times a day because when something turns up at a silly price someone buys it fast. So you never get to see it. Probably me!

But they are out there. The Joysticks came from I think, tom on here for one, and another that was from a member here. And one from Rover (I think? My meory is bad!) Non of those were from eBay. But there are alsways some offeres on the bay. You just got to spend a year or so cerefully watching and striking when the iron is hot! There was a guy on here selling these refurbed ones too. And I posted a few links on EBay on here after I bought mine.

This is another sIlly deal.
If you live in the US.
BUY IT NOW!

You get a full set of R-Net stuff, with 1 mile on the clock. And a powerchair thrown in. For 1.5k.

If I was in the US, and I do not like mid drives or permobils I would buy this BEFORE SOMEONE ELSE DOES. and flip it with a 5k profit... These are 10k dollars with 1 less mile!

[Burgerman]

I will ask how much it costs to recondition one although it will not have a fixed price for sure.

Yes it does. They do not recondition yours. They ship you a new in box (actually a factory refurb but its hard to understand the difference.) And take your old one probably keep the metal castings and a few other parts if still perfect to respray etc. They dont "fix your old one"... As far as I know. All the internals are new. The externals look new.

It took me 2 years to build up that r-net collection or spares. Carefully fishing! Making daft "offers". I wont buy unless the price is right and unless they are refurbs or new. Power modules and lighting/seating modules were removed from new or barely used demo chairs stripped for parts. And so very low hours and clean unmarked but were used.

DONT buy unless the price is right or the daft offer is accepted. Dont buy if not new or as new. Be PATIENT they do appear! Just takes time. I still look now. Because there may be a deal! Dont wait till you need the parts. Buy when they are available cheap! I now have enough chairs and parts to see me out.

[Raro]

I already saw that chair but I'm on the other side of the pond and those things don't have a market here, no one buys them as a guide. What would be the correct price for you?