WheelchairDriver

They gave me (a present) a powerchair with damaged electronics.
Quickie F35

If I find a VR2 at a good price, I'm going to bring the powerchair back to life.

I want to take advantage of the current wiring and place some terminals.
The cables are in perfect condition, but I need to reattach them; it has a broken VSI.

Does anyone know what the VR2 power module connectors are "technically" called?
They are unlikely to have names.

Could terminals like these be useful?
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007299407727.html

Just ebay a battery loom. Junk all the olde stuff. Wiring will be too light anyway.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187566034596

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/357645165714

Etc.

shirley_hkg wrote:
€20 on Aliexpress.

Thanks.
Can you share the links?

Initially I'm going to try to use the existing wiring.
I'm going to use a 50 amp VR2.

They are atomotive style blade connectors and housings, and anderson connector clones.

Is that only loom or the full system?

Depends on your definition of a full system. A basic non rehab setup has only these:

1. Battery to controller. (batt terminals, often 6mm ring terminals, and 2 blade connectors on the power module.) Now it has power!
2. Motors. Mostly come with connectors. These plug into the power module. If they dont, use automotive blade connectors... Now they do.

Thats all. Joysticks use their own bus type cables to connect to the same family of controller. So thats not involved here.

If your chair has more wiring than this throw it away.



On controller...
Motor 1 is motor and brake.
Centre, battery...
Motor 2 is motor and brake.



All just different sized blade connectors. In a fancy plastic plug casing that you dont actually need...
Crimp, solder and add heat shrink. Or use the ones with a clear hard polythene cover.
Large ones are 10mm small are 6.3mm I think from memory.

Add a fuse...

How and where should I locate the fuse?

Anyplace between battery and controller or between the 2 batteries. Neg or positive. All it has to do is fail in the event that the controller goes short circuit. So that the battery loom wires do not burn.

In that case it isn't necessary.
The battery boxes have fuses...

Heres everything you need for a 120A R-net system, with up to 6 seating actuators (on the left), all brand new or taken from new chairs, for £100 delivered.

Once you have a programmer it opens doors!

Better joystick??

Deduct 50 (simple joystick), add 80.

That £80 was accepted for this NEW (not the 100 shown) colour joystick. Seen these for £70 NEW recently.

Total is now £130...

Bought 3 fancy new colour CJSM2 joysticks, £125 each and one for 150. All NEW unused complete with screen protectors still fitted and boxed.

Heres 2 of them.

All this is only possible WITH a programmer. So while that bit is expensive it opens up many doors.

3 of my 4, 120A power modules. These were all £40 or 45 each. Many came with free bus cables or a battery loom. (ASK!)

6 channel seating actuators. These drive lights, and seating motors. Some came free. Some cost me 40. I have 3 spare ones and 2 came with a wiring loom so no blade connectors needed!

This all makes a programmer that you NEED ANYWAY for configuring a chair, a key to open the gate to buy any R-Net stuff that is both new and appears at the right price. So you can make an "offer" on anything that appears. Programmer is £££. The rest is then stupidly cheap if you learn how to fish properly on eBay.

I understand that the programmer is sealed and it's not possible to open it and see inside...

Dunno, never looked. Why would you do that?

Reverse engineering.

You would need their code thats lives on the chip inside.

He seems to have a lot of old used junk though. Chairs and controllers.

Yes its trivial to fit R-Net which is why I have 5 complete sets with spares. All pre programmed up ready to go and new or as new!
In the future it will be ever harder to get programmers etc. So get one while its still possible, stock up on cheap r-net parts!

All the other control systems are now locked down or garbage. R-net will go the same way sometime soon.

It allows me to look at as new but "used" rear drive chairs by other brands that have crappy controllers, and just change them over. Same with brand new ones. I dont worry about such things now as a swap to R-Net is easy.

OK.
The dongle has an eprom.

> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPROM

I assume the code is encrypted...

The code is the source code would be something like borland C, compiled into a bit of machine code... That you cant read or get back off.

I mentioned it because there are devices for reading and writing EPROMs.

Yes. Well writing anyway...
All beyond me though.

A while back I looked for female spade lucas type connectors for 2-pin r-net 24v power input but the ones i found were only rated to about 63amp.

EG this lot which all look to flimsy imho https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale- ... t.search.0