Q LOGIC PROGRAMMING INTERFACE

[woodygb]

The cable according to David is approx.... 5ft long and made from speaker wire.

We had started to try the Ports FIFO and speed settings ... and my latest recommendation was a twisted pair.



The last email I had from him said ....

I've tried two other laptops one with window's xp which didn't work and window's 8.1 didn't work either, the best results are on my laptop with window's 7 so I've asked a computer chap to have a look at the laptop just to make sure it's operating correctly. Regards

He may not login to this forum until his laptop returns.

[Burgerman]

Computer chap? Sounds ominous!

They tend to be as useless as powerchair techs.

[gologen]

window's 8.1 didn't work either

Windows 8 works only in compatibility mode (no different for windows XP or for windows Vista).

I tested four different systems on different laptops:
Windows XP - more then 50% i was getting error at transfer of big massive of data
Windows Vista - sometimes (less then 5%) i was getting error at transfer but most of time everything was ok
Windows 7 - i never got error
Windows 8 (only in compatibility mode) - same never got error.
In any system: when program was able to read powerbase parameters i didn't have problem to change any single parameter after.

I can't say where is a problem exactly. It can be in the computer, CAN-USB adapter, USB cable, connected wires.
I didn't test different CAN-USB adapters, but i cut connected wires (gauge 18) to 1meter. You can try to use even shilded cable with connected shild on one or both sides.
With old laptop (winXP) i had better results when it was powered from wall outlet.

[davidpaul]

Computer chap? Sounds ominous!

They tend to be as useless as powerchair techs.

LOl, he's a friend, I just wanted to make sure the laptop was working correctly, he's just been to have a look and the laptop and windows are working as they should.

[davidpaul]

Thank you guys, I haven't been on here for a day or two so I didn't see your post's.

I have shortened the cable to 2 feet and found better connectors to plug into the controller, still the same message.

My "man" say's as far as he can tell the program, usb etc are working fine.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... icture.png

[davidpaul]

Now I'm stuffed the controller on the chair has come up with a message "system lock" and nothing works on the chair apart from the horn and light's

[davidpaul]

Ignore the last message, I've unlocked the controller

[Burgerman]

Power cycling, disconnecting, will probably unlock it.

[ex-Gooserider]

The cable according to David is approx.... 5ft long and made from speaker wire.

We had started to try the Ports FIFO and speed settings ... and my latest recommendation was a twisted pair.

The last email I had from him said ....

I've tried two other laptops one with window's xp which didn't work and window's 8.1 didn't work either, the best results are on my laptop with window's 7 so I've asked a computer chap to have a look at the laptop just to make sure it's operating correctly. Regards

He may not login to this forum until his laptop returns.

IMHO speaker wire is sketchy at best for that sort of application. The length makes it worse... I'd look for something intended as data cable, with a twisted pair, preferably shielded. If digging in the scrap bin, I'd probably look for things like old ethernet, USB or mouse cables that can be repurposed. also keep the cable as short as practical.

For data, the current flow is negligible, so wire gage isn't real critical, but the length can be, and protecting from interference is critical.

ex-Gooserider

[davidpaul]

I have an unused Ethernet cable which is shielded, I've already cut it to length and I'm going to solder on the connectors and try it later on today, I will report back soon

[davidpaul]

Success ! I'm in now I'm afraid to disconnect it. lol

[falco peregrinus]

Great!

Falco

[davidpaul]

I would like to say thank you to all who helped me with my project

[GearJammer]

Well, I feel a bit shady making a request in my first post on this site, but I'm a bit desperate. A friend has asked me to take a look at their Ottobock B600 which is misbehaving. Since they rely on the chair when out and about, and because there is visually nothing wrong with the chair, I've decided that what I really need to do is access the information in the controller unit. A thread elsewhere on this site (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1256) eventually brought me here. Several hours later, having interspersed the reading of 15 pages of extremely informative discussion with numerous failed attempts at trying to find the 1314 programming software online, I thought I'd actually join this site and simply ask whether anyone would be so kind as to send a copy of the software to me. I wouldn't normally ask but the only torrent I can find for it seems to be unseeded, and the link to the file sharing site that appears throughout this thread and elsewhere contains an empty file.

Many thanks in advance.

GJ

[GearJammer]

Me again. Well, I managed to find the software (or, at least, a version of it) by following the link and instructions here: http://www.ev.forumchitchat.com/post/sh ... ostcount=1

Meanwhile, in the last half hour one seed has appeared for the "SetupExe_OEM_1314-4401_mit_allen_Updates-Bis_31_08_06" version of the software (which may be the same as the file on the site above). Either way, now that I have the full version of it, I'll seed it indefinitely. The easiest way to get that version is to google for the .torrent file that has the following hash: 4CC64EDF3A6CEE5C08F002B7AA1C5C0E9184DBB3

In the next few days I'll be trying to resolve the issues with my friend's chair. If I think anything that I've done might be useful if shared, I'll start a thread elsewhere on this site.

Cheers

GJ

[woodygb]

I assume that you have a CanBus interface cable?

[GearJammer]

Hi Woody.

After last night's research marathon I bought a bunch of stuff based on what people have done on this site and others, including the HL340 USB:Serial that rubbertoe used in his post (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2757&start=60#p44944). Hopefully it will all arrive tomorrow and then I'll have a few options to play with if something doesn't work.

GJ

[woodygb]

Your going to waste your time unless you can get hold of a genuine Curtis CANBUS interface cable OR one of these...


go back and read the first 2 pages of this thread.

The Q-logic will NOT program via the serial method or indeed any of the other homebrew cables.

[minnesotajedi]

Thanks to the excellent information in this thread and others I have successfully created what may be the best cable for programming the NE series. I thought it would be helpful for others to condense the info in a single post (to keep this simple and clear I will avoid linking to the various sources - please read the entire thread). My contribution is that I have done this without the need for an additional circuit for RS232 level conversion and inversion.

IMG_3391.JPG (93.65 KiB) Viewed 14531 times

I have used a FTDI TTL-232RG-VSW5V-WE USB to serial cable with bare wires at the serial end. Serial is 5V TTL. The obscure magic is that it can be programmed to invert the signals using the FT_PROG utility available from the FTDI web site.

InvertCapture.PNG (119.66 KiB) Viewed 14531 times

The biggest challenge is modifying the XLR connector to add the two programming pins

PlugDetail.png (233.71 KiB) Viewed 14531 times

I used a Switchcraft AAA3MBZ XLR connector. A typical DIN plug was used to supply the additional pins. The new pins are 1.5mm diameter and located 8mm (centers) above the inhibit pin with 4mm (centers) spacing.

Depending on the skill level and tools available it may be a challenge making this connector. My skill is not high and all I had was a cheap small hobby drill press. I ruined my first attempt but had ordered a couple spares. Once the holes are drilled use a Dremel or similar tool to cut away the back of the connector and make a slot for the epoxy.

To help locate the drilling locations I did the following. Inserted a pair of bare pins into the wheelchair leaving about 1/4" exposed. Painted the ends with bright nail polish. Carefully inserted the XLR plug far enough to transfer the paint without pushing the pins all the way in. Removed the bare pins and discarded.

Only the black, yellow, and orange wires are needed - cut the rest back. Note that the TXD/RXD are reversed in the diagram above as this is the back of the connector perspective. Yellow is RXD; orange is TXD.

I found the Curtis programming software at http://www.ev.forumchitchat.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1282392606&postcount=1.

I have tested it on native Windows 8 and Windows 7 under VirtualBox on a Mac.

[woodygb]

I've previously given out information about the FTDI lead on the Buggies forum.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric ... er-88.html

I've never had success with the invert signal function.

The detailed instructions for the plug will be welcome.

[minnesotajedi]

I've never had success with the invert signal function.

That is odd. Worked for me the first time. Perhaps something that was fixed in a later version of the driver or utility. I used FT_PROG 2.8.2.0. If I remember correctly I didn't have to install the driver on Windows 8 and I may have installed D2XX 2.10.00 64bit on Windows 7.

[woodygb]

I have the same FT_PROG Version installed.
I didn't bother to tinker much with the FTDI lead as a cheap ( £1.65 incl p&p ) CH340 USB - Serial cable works fine for me to communicate with Curtis controllers.

[rover220]

i cant sort full oem 1314 pc software for anyone that needs. the cable though i cant help with.

[woodygb]

Both the Early and later 1314 versions are "available" .... I can supply the serial cable and the CAN interface is described at the beginning of this thread.

[Thwip]

Does the info supplied in the original post apply to Q6 Edge with Q-Logic 2?

I've read and searched through the thread and see no mention Q-Logic 2.

TIA

[woodygb]

Unfortunately the answer is maybe ... until someone tries it on a Q-logic 2 and reports back ... we simply don't know.

[FWG]

I just got a new Q6 Edge. I have a programmer but I'd love to be able to do it through my PC. On page 2, what type of wires do you have connected from the chair to the adapter? The port on my chair has holes not pins.

[gologen]

what type of wires do you have connected from the chair to the adapter?

twisted pair of any wires with pins 1.5mm

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2757&p=44331#p44331

[mssmith]

Hi there I'm not sure if this is the right place to Post these or not so bear with me. My partner has been trying to find out about programming my Otto Bok B600 without much luck. I think he's read some of the threads here but he is so far not much further on. Getting hold of the programmer seems to be a major problem. Burgerman suggested that I post some pictures of the control box so here they are - if I can work out how to do it. Ah! I have to make my images smaller. I'll do that and try again.

[steves1977uk]

Hi there I'm not sure if this is the right place to Post these or not so bear with me. My partner has been trying to find out about programming my Otto Bok B600 without much luck. I think he's read some of the threads here but he is so far not much further on. Getting hold of the programmer seems to be a major problem. Burgerman suggested that I post some pictures of the control box so here they are - if I can work out how to do it. Ah! I have to make my images smaller. I'll do that and try again.

The second pic has the same female sockets as a Pilot+ pod, does your chair have a Penny & Giles control system on it?

Steve